MH Conundrum!

[flyingarmy]

I recently added a Lumen Bright reflector over my 160 Cube. I am running a 400W, 10K (the same bulb I have been using) and the light is totally different. It's more yellow than with the Lumen Bright reflector than the PFO and since it's more focus there is a column of light instead of spreading the light over the footprint of the cube. I am debating about going back to the PFO and adding a second mogul socket, opposite side, w/400W 10K to get the PAR punch that I need to reach to the bottom of the 36" cube. Does anyone know of any drawbacks or issue running 2X400W in parrallel? I know there will be increased heat but I'll be getting double the PAR and a better asthetic loook from the old reflector. Another option is to add 2 additional VHO Daylight 75W bulbs to increase the white light of the tank. This option would be cheaper definitely and would give the tank the desired asthetic look I want and still have the PAR punch in the center to the bottom of the tank. Just wanted to inquire with those that have more lighting experience than I! thanks in advance!

 

[humptrax]

the yellow hue, i'm sure, is caused by the effectiveness of the reflector. rather than the light dissipating, the reflector concentrates the light and causes this yellow "beam" look.

i messed with 2 SE 250W vs 1 MH set up and to be honest, although the second MH obviously added a lot more light, my eyes couldn't tell too much. If PAR is a concern, VHOs, IMO in a 36" deep tank, wouldn't penetrate to the bottom like you'd want. Perhaps replacing your flourescent actinic supplementation for weaker halides (like 175W iwasakis, although it might cost an arm and a leg) might be your best bet.

i think the question you really want to ask yourself is, am i more concerned with PAR and keeping high light regiment species at/near the bottom of the tank or am i more concerned with aesthetics/cosmetic?

Perhaps a change to a 14k bulb would be best. i know you'll be sacrificing PAR but supplementing a bluer bulb with a few VHO daylights might work.

I checked out Brandon's tank yesterday and i was really surprised at how "yellow" the XM 10k looked by itself. now that you mention something about the yellow hue, i guess i need to re think my future set up as well...

 

[cameron]

Someone was telling me that often when a tank looks yellow from a white bulb it is the yellow in the water. I saw your setup and it was yellow rather than a hint of yellow. Still if you aren't running carbon, running a bit for a few days might help.

 

[flyingarmy]

Cameron;146808 wrote: Someone was telling me that often when a tank looks yellow from a white bulb it is the yellow in the water. I saw your setup and it was yellow rather than a hint of yellow. Still if you aren't running carbon, running a bit for a few days might help.

Agreed....time to change out the carbon anyways.

 

[FutureInterest]

Maybe 1000watts? Industrial MH units are pretty cheap but are not silent which would be fine for your fishroom. I think James was selling some for less than 100.

 

[harleyguy]

I know this has been an ongoing debate, and I know you just got the Lumen Bright reflector, but in your case a Lumenarc III might have been a better choice. Granted it does not have that laser beam spot-light affect like the LB does but it does have great dispersion. You can get about 30" easily with a LA. Then add a few T5's a wha-la your done. But of course that just my opinion. On the other hand if you wanted to stay with the LB you could try the Aquaconnect 14K 400W bulb. They are great. They have outstanding PAR and a nice white light... but they are a little pricy, and kind of hard to find, but worth it IMHO (I used the 250 DE on my last tank).

 

[james s_]

FutureInterest;146826 wrote: Maybe 1000watts? Industrial MH units are pretty cheap but are not silent which would be fine for your fishroom. I think James was selling some for less than 100. http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6659">Yep here is the link.</a>[/QUOTE]

Mine are all sold. But I think Harleys Idea with the LA III's would be the best bet. Switching to a 14k wouldnt be a bad idea either.

I find it odd that the color has changed by switching Reflectors?

 

[skriz]

From what I've found, most of the yellow tint in the tank is the water being yellow. I've found that ozone can't be beat to clear the water column.

Also, you can switch to the ushio 14k which still has outstanding par and a bluer tint than the 10k.

Lastly, the direction of the nipple on the bulb will also affect the colour output!

 

[humptrax]

Skriz;146860 wrote: Lastly, the direction of the nipple on the bulb will also affect the colour output!

debunked myth:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/1/review/view?searchterm=nipple%20orientation">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/1/review/view?searchterm=nipple%20orientation</a>


"The distribution of light around some bulb circumferences did vary. However, the variation was not consistent from brand to brand and the nipple position was not an accurate predictor of intensity. Some bulbs produced greater intensity on the side with the nipple while others produced greater intensity on the side opposite the nipple. The polar graphs reproduced below for each of the bulbs shows intensity in PAR".

 

[FutureInterest]

Interesting.

 

[skriz]

humptrax;146865 wrote: debunked myth:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/1/review/view?searchterm=nipple%20orientation">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/1/review/view?searchterm=nipple%20orientation</a>


"The distribution of light around some bulb circumferences did vary. However, the variation was not consistent from brand to brand and the nipple position was not an accurate predictor of intensity. Some bulbs produced greater intensity on the side with the nipple while others produced greater intensity on the side opposite the nipple. The polar graphs reproduced below for each of the bulbs shows intensity in PAR".[/QUOTE]


Exactly! The nipple direction is not an accurate predictor, meaning that you can't say that an xm will give best colour if nipple is at 12:00. BUT, you do get differences based on where the nipple is. So, you can have the intensity of X with the nipple at 12 and intensity of Y with nipple at 6 on a particular bulb. If you have run the bulb at 6 and then change to 12, you will notice that you now have a different intensity. Does that make sense?

Or, it could be bs :)

 

[harleyguy]

That's one of those things that couldn't hurt to try...

 

[harleyguy]

I guess that is unless the bulb was still hot... LOL

 

[flyingarmy]

I think I might try going to a 12-14K bulb first and see how that looks. Thanks for the ideas and input. Last resort is re-doing the lighting. I am going to add 1-2 75W Daylight VHOs anyway so maybe that will help. I definitely need to change my carbon. Thanks again!