Need a heater Recommendation for multiple tanks

[superclown]

This will be for my breeder tanks getting closer to going up so im trying to tie up the rest of the equipment that I really need.

I have 3 20g tanks 3 25g cubes 1 40g breeders (1 40g breeder will be added later) 1 50g sump

so thats roughly if my math is correct around 225g after I account for not filling tanks to top, water volume taken up by rock in sump and equipment etc...etc..

I plan for the near future to pick up a cheap controller just so I can have the heaters turn off in the event that they get stuck on and rise above a certain temp.

I am not looking for something with all the bells and whistles but a good quality heater... will I need to get just one big one? or multiple smaller ones.

 

[superclown]

Bump

 

[rbredding]

if you've got a controller already (apex/RKE/etc) then just get a titanium heating element (without any controller) Blueline makes one, so does Wan Brothers..

I would say somewhere around 300W (or two 150's).. setup in your sump will be fine.. most heaters are OVERKILL for their application anyway..

I've got a 200W in my 90gal (130 total system volume) and when it comes on, it's never on for more than 5 mins..

 

[lifestudent]

For my system that has a maximum growout potential of ~350 gallons, I purchased a http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/3033/Process-Tech-1000-Watt-Heater">titanium 1,000 watt heater from aquatic eco-systems </a>(click link) and control it with a 2 stage Ranco controller.

One concern with this is that you plan to control this heater with either a Neptune Systems or Digital Aquatics controller is that it requires using a heavy duty device due to the high wattage. These companies recommend not exceeding 800 watts per outlet on their regular power units.

 

[superclown]

I think im even more confused now than I was before I also have a friend who is running a 400w on a 90 For the first few months of the system it will not have a controller but will be added later. Is running a multiple lower wattage heaters or single larger wattage heaters better. Am I overthinking this?

 

[lifestudent]

You're probably going to better off to have multiple smaller heaters.

I went with the 1,000 watt since the room its in can get pretty chilly.

 

[superclown]

I know a lot has to do with how much work the heaters have to do. (What is the temp in the room) this will be going in a basement with temps sometimes in the 50s

 

[sharkbait]

I have run the marineland stealth pro's and have had great success and stability from them. To be honest this is one of the most overlooked equipment in the entire setup...IF you buy a cheap one its likely down the road it will break while stuck on heating the tank and cook the tank. I would choose wisely and not cheap out on this part...Thats just my opinion..

 

[rbredding]

you can do either(single unit, or multiple units)... the problem you're going to have is controlling them..

if you buy individually controlled heaters (like you see EVERYWHERE) then, ONE DAY, you're going to have that heater fail on you.

the difference is that with a system like I've got, the Aquarium Controller has to fail for the heater to fail.. (almost never happens, and if it DID fail, it wouldn't leave the heater outlet ON)

you should look at the Digital Aquatics ReefKeeper Lite (version 1) - it's got 4 controllable outlets (two for heaters, two for lights?) and will monitor PH & Temperature for $100..


my recommendation would still be to have a single unit (placed in an area of high flow of the sump - like in/under a bubble trap), and a simple aquarium controller to monitor everything..

 

[superclown]

I agree that this is one area you can't go cheap on im just ttrying to get an idea of price and options

Rbredding;605223 wrote: you can do either(single unit, or multiple units)... the problem you're going to have is controlling them..

if you buy individually controlled heaters (like you see EVERYWHERE) then, ONE DAY, you're going to have that heater fail on you.

the difference is that with a system like I've got, the Aquarium Controller has to fail for the heater to fail.. (almost never happens, and if it DID fail, it wouldn't leave the heater outlet ON)

you should look at the Digital Aquatics ReefKeeper Lite (version 1) - it's got 4 controllable outlets (two for heaters, two for lights?) and will monitor PH & Temperature for $100..


my recommendation would still be to have a single unit (placed in an area of high flow of the sump - like in/under a bubble trap), and a simple aquarium controller to monitor everything..

 

[sharkbait]

SuperClown;605274 wrote: I agree that this is one area you can't go cheap on im just ttrying to get an idea of price and options

well I would personally run two marine-land stealth pro's and run them off of a controller, like a RKL and you would have assurance that your tank would never cook.

 

[markl]

The only ting I don't like about running one heater is if it takes a crap your screwed.Best to go with several smaller heaters IMO.

 

[superclown]

Im thinking 2 300w on a controller

 

[rbredding]

MarkL;605278 wrote: The only ting I don't like about running one heater is if it takes a crap your screwed.Best to go with several smaller heaters IMO.

I'd like to emphasize that if you are using a controller like RKL or Apex then you dont need a heater that has it's own thermostat.
besides, it's much more efficient to purchase a heating element there is no electronic components, so they will last much longer than a "package unit" heater with a thermostat.


when these things "take a crap" it's the thermostat that stops working properly.. remove that gremlin from the system and you've got a more reliable setup

 

[misu]

SuperClown;605283 wrote: Im thinking 2 300w on a controller

that's what I'm running on my tank - around 160 gal total water volume.

I also like Rena heaters

 

[superclown]

That makes sense. I am getting the controller first and then the heaters thanks for all your input guys

 

[markl]

Rbredding;605477 wrote: I'd like to emphasize that if you are using a controller like RKL or Apex then you dont need a heater that has it's own thermostat.
besides, it's much more efficient to purchase a heating element there is no electronic components, so they will last much longer than a "package unit" heater with a thermostat.


when these things "take a crap" it's the thermostat that stops working properly.. remove that gremlin from the system and you've got a more reliable setup

Any thing man made can and will fail. Its like investing in stocks.It best not to put all your eggs in one basket . You are right about the thermostat normally going out but if and when the heating element does. I hope its not winter time and your out of town.

 

[rolo65]

ive had a finnex 25w titanium heater for over a year now and its the best one ive had....had a stealth.....it stuck....caught it before it got over 85...(in the winter)....and a Jager.....it stuck too....i guess every heater is hit or miss sometimes