Need Opinion...

[j_b_]

I recently finished up the plumbing (BA) on my 60gal (48L x 24D x 12H) and got it filled up only to figure out the overflow box I made is perhaps a bit too high...okay, who am I BS'ing it's totally too high. The water level in the DT is VERY close to the upper rim of the tank, so much so that when I was putting my hand in to move some of the sand around, just a bit of movement and the water is going overboard. :doh:

Vice the usual trough type overflow associated with most BA overflows, I built a three-sided box that goes all the way to the floor of the tank...kind of like an overflow box for a Durso or Herbie but the holes are drilled in the back glass instead of the bottom.

So, I wanted to pick some of your "crafty" brains to see if you have any brilliant ideas on how to remedy this without completely tearing the tank down and re-doing the overflow box.

Here's a couple of pics to help provide some visual clarification of my words. 5...4...3...2...1...commence with the brilliance

Here's the whole setup

alt="" />

Here's a shot from under the tank

alt="" />

Here's a shot before the tank was filled

alt="" />

Inside the overflow box

alt="" />

The problem...

alt="" />

 

[bcavalli]

Is the overflow box made out of Acrylic? Maybe use a dremel tool to make the gates (slats) at the top. Thats a tough one. I would hate to see you mess up that nice overflow box.

 

[acroholic]

You can remedy this a couple ways. The easiest, IMO, would be to scribe a line however much lower you want to go, maybe 1/2" or 3/4" , on the top edge of the overflow, but maybe 1/4-1/2" away from the L/R edges where the box is siliconed to the back glass. Then get a Dremel, and use a Diamond blade cutoff wheel attachment, and cut off the top edge of the overflow where you scribed the line. Notch a cut down near the edges, then use a sanding wheel to curve down from the L/R edges to the new, lower level.

A diamond cutoff blade gives a clean, neat cut. They cost about $25 from Lowes. That is what I would do.

Another option would be to route some teeth into the existing overflow, but how to neatly do that with the overflow in place would be a pain.

A third option would be to drill some holes onto the top edge of the overflow with the holes at the water level you want. They'd have to be decent sized to get the flow through you'd need.

If it were my tank, I would do the first one I listed, as it could be done the easiest, and gives you the same type edge on the overflow as you started with.

 

[j_b_]

Bcavalli;966183 wrote: Is the overflow box made out of Acrylic? Maybe use a dremel tool to make the gates (slats) at the top. Thats a tough one. I would hate to see you mess up that nice overflow box.

Yeah, it's acrylic. I've thought about cutting some gates, but I'm afraid it'd look crappy when I finished, and then I'd have to tear it all out.

Acroholic;966185 wrote: You can remedy this a couple ways. The easiest, IMO, would be to scribe a line however much lower you want to go, maybe 1/2" or 3/4" , on the top edge of the overflow, but maybe 1/4-1/2" away from the L/R edges where the box is siliconed to the back glass. Then get a Dremel, and use a Diamond blade cutoff wheel attachment, and cut off the top edge of the overflow where you scribed the line. Notch a cut down near the edges, then use a sanding wheel to curve down from the L/R edges to the new, lower level.

A diamond cutoff blade gives a clean, neat cut. They cost about $25 from Lowes. That is what I would do.

Another option would be to route some teeth into the existing overflow, but how to neatly do that with the overflow in place would be a pain.

A third option would be to drill some holes onto the top edge of the overflow with the holes at the water level you want. They'd have to be decent sized to get the flow through you'd need.

If it were my tank, I would do the first one I listed, as it could be done the easiest, and gives you the same type edge on the overflow as you started with.

I was thinking the same thing as your first option listed, just wasn't sure how the acrylic would react to the cutoff wheels.

My other concern is how to keep any cutting/sanding debris out of the tank...perhaps it would be nice to me and just float on top of the water where I could easily collect it with a net??

 

[acroholic]

J.B.;966186 wrote:
I was thinking the same thing as your first option listed, just wasn't sure how the acrylic would react to the cutoff wheels.

My other concern is how to keep any cutting/sanding debris out of the tank...perhaps it would be nice to me and just float on top of the water where I could easily collect it with a net??

The diamond cutoff wheel makes the least debris of any of them. When you use it, don't let it sit anywhere along the line too long. This keeps it cool and cutting, instead of heating up and melting the acrylic. I've done it many times. Multiple shallow passes until you cut through is the way to cut acrylic.

Drain the tank down a couple inches, then using a piece of plastic drop cloth and painters tape, mask off the inside of the tank, like you were prepping a car for paint. Do the same inside the overflow. Problem solved.

 

[j_b_]

Perfect...thanks for your insight, Dave...I believe this is the route I'll be going.