New lighting

[patrick214]

I have been looking to get some new lighting for a while, originally i had planned on the new solaris, but i have become more wary recently given some of the par issues, and the lack of any uv. anyways, i was trying to find a mh fixture that could do some of the moonlight and dimming features the solaris has and i ran acroos this giesseman fixture. heres the link.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~SearchStr~infiniti%20moonlight~action~view~idProduct~GL1583~idCategory~FILTFIMHMTMDMLM8~category~72_inch_Giesemann_Moonlight_Infiniti_3x250W_HQI_+_4x80W_T5_Light_Fixture___Silver_72in~vendor~.html">http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~SearchStr~infiniti%20moonlight~action~view~idProduct~GL1583~idCategory~FILTFIMHMTMDMLM8~category~72_inch_Giesemann_Moonlight_Infiniti_3x250W_HQI_+_4x80W_T5_Light_Fixture___Silver_72in~vendor~.html</a>

It seems really cool, but i wonder if the t5's have individual reflectors. I'm kinda torn between doin this fixture, or doing three 400 watt SE radiums in LAIII reflectors with t5 supplements for dawn to dusk. I like the idea of having all the features the giesseman offers but i also have a real affinity for the blue look radiums give, but anyways i was curious what you sps guys think about this fixture and how it would compare vs the radium idea.

 

[glxtrix]

IMO thats a lot of coin to throw on a fixture. Sure it looks pretty and does nifty things....but thats a lot of coin, lol. From the pics it looks like the t5's on both sides share reflectors. That right there would turn me off. Then again the actinic bulbs don't really do much for PAR. I'd just go with the Radiums and if I were you, I'd get the PFO ballasts for them. That combination kickes 147 ppfd! Not too shabby from a 20K lamp

- I do take donations from the monies saved for my advice...lol.

 

[patrick214]

Alot cheaper too....

 

[glxtrix]

yeah man. I just see 4K to be a waste on a light. But hey if you have the coin to drop and you want it....go for it. But I personally think you'll get better performance form the retro. And if you put them in the right reflector.....man you could be having some SERIOUS par. What are the dims of your tank?

 

[patrick214]

72x24x30

 

[glxtrix]

man get the lumenBrights and you'll be rocking with par! But that is if you have the height to properly have these things work for you. 14-16" above the water.

 

[patrick214]

The only concern is whether the lumenarc would be too tall for my canopy, it isnt very tall, so hqi is kind of a better fit, but id prefer it to be the other way around lol.

 

[glxtrix]

Ah I see, canopy issues. I think the LA's are 6" in height.....I think. Those would be the best bet if you want to stay within your canopy.

 

[glxtrix]

that and not to mention you'll get less spread with HQI's. Depending on reflector and height that is...But the possibility of more PAR.

 

[patrick214]

Really? I thought they were taller than that? even then though i think the bottom of the reflector would only be 1.5-2.5 inches off the water line.....you think that would be a problem?

 

[glxtrix]

dims on the LA4's are - 25"L x 11.5"W x 7"H
LA3's - 19.5&#8221; x 19.5&#8221; x 8.5&#8221;
LA3 minis - 14.5"W x 14.5"L x 6.5"H

Thats close to the water you would need to worry about water splashing on the bulbs. And if it didn't, you would have to have a way to get into your tank to do regular maintenance. Flip top canopies are great for that

 

[glxtrix]

The other thing you'd have to worry about with 400's that close to the surface is heat. Hope you have a good chiller Thats the positive side to running LB's....because they are so high up the heat exchange is very minimal; tho the downside is you'll have to make it work with your canopy or build a new one.

 

[tnyga]

for that kind of ching, how bout a new canopy

 

[roland jacques]

If you build your own retro light system. You can get Dimmable T5 ballast, and programable controller, and do the same fancy clouds moon ...

 

[victor626nj]

look into elos

 

[patrick214]

glxtrix;134528 wrote: The other thing you'd have to worry about with 400's that close to the surface is heat. Hope you have a good chiller Thats the positive side to running LB's....because they are so high up the heat exchange is very minimal; tho the downside is you'll have to make it work with your canopy or build a new one.

Ya, either way were gonna do a 3/4HP or 1HP chiller, when we get the new fixture. If height werent a problem i'd probably already done the lumenarcs, but it is so i have to worry about busting bulbs and such. would it work to put glass between the lumenarc and the water to stop splashin? anyways hqi kinda fits better and a 250hqi is my second option if i cant do 400 SE's and this giesseman fixture looks to be pretty money....the way i look at it is the giesseman does all the cool little things the solaris does but is a mh so it should get enough par to grow sps pretty well.

Roland Jacques;134551 wrote: If you build your own retro light system. You can get Dimmable T5 ballast, and programable controller, and do the same fancy clouds moon ...

It says the whole unit can be dimmed between, 10 and 90 percent i assume that means it restricts power to the halides too but i may be wrong, but even if not the fixture does 28 day moon cycle, clouds, and can dim all t5 tubes individually at set intervals to simulate dusk dawn and even tell me when to replace bulbs. Id be worried if i bought dimmable t5s that they wouldnt be dimmed individually or it would become some kind of science project. what controller and t5s do what you are talking about do u have a link?

 

[glxtrix]

you can do glass to stop splashing if there is any. But then you have to worry about dirty glass which will lower PAR more than its already lowering by putting it there in the first place. Tough call man. I mean, is there considerable amount of splashing? What do you think the approx. height form the water the bulbs will be?

 

[patrick214]

There is about 9 inches from the water line to the top of the canopy, so i dont know how high into the reflector the bulbs go, but my guess would be the bulb would be like 5-6 inches off the water line.

 

[patrick214]

There is a considerable amount of splashing cause i like to really agitate the surface, i suppose i could cut back on that some.

 

[cameron]

Roland Jacques;134551 wrote: If you build your own retro light system. You can get Dimmable T5 ballast, and programable controller, and do the same fancy clouds moon ...

Not to change the subject but what are the dimmable systems out there. I know IceCap has one but don't know much about it.

As for the splash, lower the pumps a bit in the water if you can. You don't really need that much turbulence at the surface. After watching that video Roland posted about surface and air it turns out you don't really need any.