Hey, everybody! Name's Robbie...not really a new member, but it's my first time posting...I've got a 300 gallon reef tank that I've had set up for a year. I'm having a problem with my overflows not draining quickly enough into the sump. I've had to nearly cut the flow from my pump off completely. I've tried contacting the guy who did the plumbing for me, to no avail...It's been suggested to me that the pipes could be clogged and that muriatic acid poured down them might help. I'm not so sure I want to try this myself...so, does anyone know of a dependable maintenance person who could come by and check it out for me? I live in Doraville...thanks!
New Member With a Question...
- Thread starter rhamil70
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several of our sponsors do maintenance as well. Give the ones in your area a call. I wouldn't suggest adding muriatic acid to it at all. That would create more problems than what it will solve. You might have a snail that crawled in or something of that nature.
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I am not an expert in plumbing at all. However, when my tank started having similar problems it was a problem with the air intake on one of the overflow pipes. The person that installed mine told me to look at the pipes in the overflow, one may have a hole in it where the air comes in, he suggested that I stick a bobbie pin or something that small into the hole. By doing this the sludge that is closing the hole will be pushed away.
Like I said, I had someone do my plumbing because I would have wound up with a mess, however check the top of the pipes first.
Good luck,
Denise
Like I said, I had someone do my plumbing because I would have wound up with a mess, however check the top of the pipes first.
Good luck,
Denise
Hmmm...it seems the water isn't having a problem entering the pipes...I'm thinking they must be clogged under the tank before they dump into the sump...I'm with you, though. I don't want to mess with it myself, because I may create a worse problem!
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I know that my overflow was extremely caked with sludge about two weeks ago. I used a toothbrush and long handled brush to clean it out. It sounds much better now.
As far as maintenance, a good friend of mine uses Premier Aquatics, I believe they are part of Marine Reef.
I hope everything works out for you. Keep us posted as to what caused the problem.
As far as maintenance, a good friend of mine uses Premier Aquatics, I believe they are part of Marine Reef.
I hope everything works out for you. Keep us posted as to what caused the problem.
How much water is your return pump pushing, and how large are the overflows?
Standard overflows can handle about 650 gph, with a 1" bulkhead and a 1 1/2" "Durso" style standpipe. Unless there's something seriously wrong somewhere, those shouldn't clog.
Are you able to take a picture of your overflow(s) and post it here? We might be able to see what the problem is. Since overflows are gravity fed (assuming this is a reef-ready tank - overflows built in, not hang-on-the-back), there's little that should be able to go wrong with them.
What is happening if they aren't draining enough? Is the tank proper, overflowing?
Jenn
Standard overflows can handle about 650 gph, with a 1" bulkhead and a 1 1/2" "Durso" style standpipe. Unless there's something seriously wrong somewhere, those shouldn't clog.
Are you able to take a picture of your overflow(s) and post it here? We might be able to see what the problem is. Since overflows are gravity fed (assuming this is a reef-ready tank - overflows built in, not hang-on-the-back), there's little that should be able to go wrong with them.
What is happening if they aren't draining enough? Is the tank proper, overflowing?
Jenn
The pump is a Reeflo Barracuda, I believe it's rated at 4500 gph, but I've never run it with the valve completely open...The overflows (there are 2) are built in and approximatelt 6"x12"...I believe the drains are 1 1/2 inch...and, yes, the tank proper overflows...not a good thing! As far as pics, I'll have to wait til I get home...
Well, the problem has been slowly getting worse. I used to run the valve on the pump at about 3/4 of the way open. About 4 months ago, the flow started to slow down, and I began having to close the valve a little more as the weeks went by. At first, I thought the slits in the overflows where the water comes in from the tank were the problem. But, after cleaning them, it didn't help much. Now I have the valve almost completely closed (it seemed to get alot worse in the past couple of weeks) or else the water from the overflows spills over the back of the tank! The water is level with the rest of the tank water. I took the caps on top of the standpipes off, thinking that might be the problem, but still not helping...The pump is in the cabinet underneath...
Pix will help. I've seen some curious standpipe configurations in my day, and some of them caused a similar problem to what you are describing.
A "clog" is not impossible, but it's very rare for an adequately large pipe to just clog with flotsam, particularly with that kind of volume of water going through it.
When you get to pictures, please also provide pictures of under the cabinet showing how the drains empty to the sump.
Are the drains, where they empty to the sump, below the water line? That can cause an air lock which can slow drains. Not sure that's the problem, or something else, but it's something else to check into. Particularly if you've throttled back the pump, there may not be enough flow through now to keep pushing the water out the bottom, below the water line (hope that makes sense - sometimes what my brain thinks doesn't translate well into text...)
Jenn
A "clog" is not impossible, but it's very rare for an adequately large pipe to just clog with flotsam, particularly with that kind of volume of water going through it.
When you get to pictures, please also provide pictures of under the cabinet showing how the drains empty to the sump.
Are the drains, where they empty to the sump, below the water line? That can cause an air lock which can slow drains. Not sure that's the problem, or something else, but it's something else to check into. Particularly if you've throttled back the pump, there may not be enough flow through now to keep pushing the water out the bottom, below the water line (hope that makes sense - sometimes what my brain thinks doesn't translate well into text...)
Jenn
LOL, I know what you mean! It's hard conveying all this stuff in a post...The drains are directly above the sump. They both have 90 degree angle below where they come from the bottom of the tank (that's where I'm guessing a possible clog would be) and then go to the sump. I'll be home around 5 and take pics then...I really appreciate the help!
Hmmm that might be the problem - 90 degree angle seriously impedes things. If a snail or something got stuck in there, that would be a problem. I take it, this is hard-plumbed with PVC? 2 x 45-degrees would have been a "gentler" corner, but the straightest path is usually best. However we look after tanks with sumps in the basement and tank on main level and in some instances, pipes take a hard turn, but I've never encountered that problem on those because the rush of water and sheer volume can flush whatever, right out of there (knock on wood - now watch I'll get a panicked phone call...)
Do the drain outputs empty above or below the water line?
What style of standpipe do you have (or I'll wait for pix LOL)... is there anything besides plumbing in the overflow box? I've seen all kinds of stuff from bioballs to filter pads, to no pipe, and a sponge (!!)... that caused a major clog (and we didn't install it but we fixed it!)... sort of thinking out loud here... like I said I've seen some interesting stuff over the years.
Are there shutoff valves on the drains? There shouldn't be... but some folks put those on too, and that can be a problem.
Jenn
Do the drain outputs empty above or below the water line?
What style of standpipe do you have (or I'll wait for pix LOL)... is there anything besides plumbing in the overflow box? I've seen all kinds of stuff from bioballs to filter pads, to no pipe, and a sponge (!!)... that caused a major clog (and we didn't install it but we fixed it!)... sort of thinking out loud here... like I said I've seen some interesting stuff over the years.
Are there shutoff valves on the drains? There shouldn't be... but some folks put those on too, and that can be a problem.
Jenn
I thought the same thing about the 90s, but the guy who did it said it was the best way...the drain lines (all hard pvc) run almost (but not quite) level across the top of the sump, then 90 again into the top of the sump, so, above the water line...no shut off valves on them. Nothing in the overflows but the standpipes. I'm not really sure yet HOW to take pics of the standpipes for you, though...
Overflows on the back, or in the corners? On the back would make pix difficult.
Yeah, 2 x 90 degree would slow things down considerably... but if it worked fine initially...
That's still a LOT of pump for that size of tank. I used to have a 5800 GPH on a 1000g, and it had a 90 coming off the bottom but it flowed so fast through there that carbon in a filter sock literally got pulverized
Good that there's no valves (there shouldn't be anything to restrict the flow since it's gravity fed)...
You mentioned caps on the standpipes, which you removed... the caps, can you describe them? Was there any sort of screen on them to prevent critters from riding the flume? I'm back to the snail in the pipe theory... for now.
Jenn
Yeah, 2 x 90 degree would slow things down considerably... but if it worked fine initially...
That's still a LOT of pump for that size of tank. I used to have a 5800 GPH on a 1000g, and it had a 90 coming off the bottom but it flowed so fast through there that carbon in a filter sock literally got pulverized
Good that there's no valves (there shouldn't be anything to restrict the flow since it's gravity fed)...
You mentioned caps on the standpipes, which you removed... the caps, can you describe them? Was there any sort of screen on them to prevent critters from riding the flume? I'm back to the snail in the pipe theory... for now.
Jenn
Well, the caps were on the top...no screen...then there is a elbow that comes off the side...I assume THAT'S where the water is supposed to enter it. No screens any where on it, though. I know that there were some snails in the overflow boxes at one point, so that may be the problem...and the overflows are on the back, but in the corners. The canopy is ALOT of trouble to get off, though. Question: You guys do maintenance? How much would it be to get you to come to the house and take a look at it? I live in Doraville...
OK... if it had "hooked" elbows, then it was likely a "Durso" style... Do they look like this?
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If that's the case, then it's possible that snails crawled down there and are stuck - I have seen that happen, even though they have to go to great lengths to do that...
We do provide maintenance, but you're farther out than our normal service area. I'd have to see if Brian would make a run out to your location (better to discuss this by PM or email)... This could be something you can fix yourself if you're able.
Are there any unions on the drains, particularly beneath the tank? Then you'd be able to disconnect a section (after the water flow is turned off of course) and either feel inside, or stick a flexible brush or whatnot in, to see if you can feel or clear an obstruction.
If it's all glued and there are no unions, the plumbing may have to be cut and redone if it is indeed an obstruction. That's the IF... while I'm leaning toward that theory, it's just that... a theory.
Jenn
If that's the case, then it's possible that snails crawled down there and are stuck - I have seen that happen, even though they have to go to great lengths to do that...
We do provide maintenance, but you're farther out than our normal service area. I'd have to see if Brian would make a run out to your location (better to discuss this by PM or email)... This could be something you can fix yourself if you're able.
Are there any unions on the drains, particularly beneath the tank? Then you'd be able to disconnect a section (after the water flow is turned off of course) and either feel inside, or stick a flexible brush or whatnot in, to see if you can feel or clear an obstruction.
If it's all glued and there are no unions, the plumbing may have to be cut and redone if it is indeed an obstruction. That's the IF... while I'm leaning toward that theory, it's just that... a theory.
Jenn
