New reefer 220 build.

Adam

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I've always wanted to have a salt water tank since I was a little kid. When I bought my house in 99' I finished the basement a couple years later and had a spot planned out to put a large tank but life & fiances got in the way. Watching a few TV shows last year rekindled in the interest. So I started planning and picking up things little by little. By the end of the year I had most of what I needed to get started and in January I started putting the plans into action.

This is where the DT is going to go.
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The tank I got was an undrilled Marineland 220. I've seen these listed as a 210 as well but the actual volume is 205 gallons based on the internal dimensions.
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So to get started the first thing I did was go to work building the stand and storage platforms for a mixing station. After issues with the saw I rented from Home Depot and them replacing some of the lumber I was able to turn this.
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Into this.
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And this.
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I've got the mixing station installed and plumbed. This was after several design modifications. This took a lot more time than it should have. I can hold about 100 gallons of filtered water in 2 55 gallon drums that are connected together and have float switches installed. They will be kept full and managed by my Apex. Beneath them are 2 55 gallon Brute cans that can store another 110 gallons. They are also plumbed together and have a pump installed for mixing salt. There will also be a 32 gallon brute on the floor to the left that will be for the ATO. In the ceiling to the right is a humidity controlled exhaust fan that I put in as well.
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Over the last week I've gotten a decent amount done. I ran 2 new 15amp circuits down to the room and wired up 3 GFCI outlets, one from an existing circuit. I've drilled the tank for the overflow I'm going to use and got started polishing the front pane of glass.

I also started my first real attempt at rockscaping. I've got 100lbs of Marco rock and 50lbs of Pukani. Back in January I bleached and acid dipped all the rock, the Pukani especially. I also let the Pukani sit in heated RODI water for about 6-8 weeks, changing in out once a week to 10 days. The Marco was also rinsed for a little over a week in RODI changing it out once. Once I decide on a final design all of the Pukani is going back in the 44 gallon Brute this time in saltwater and a chunk of fresh shrimp. I'll let is sit there with a pump running until it's ready to go in the tank. This will also let me get started doing some water testing and getting used to the different kits and processes.
So anyway here's what I've got so far.
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The table is 60" wide so there will be 6" of space on each side. The tape marks on the blinds are the approximate water height, it will be slightly higher. I'm also going to have a 2" sand bed and have a lot of rubble pieces to add in after the sand. Here's another pic with a gallon jug for scale.
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Basically I just started piling the rock up in ways that interlocked and felt sturdy, I haven't broke any of it up or drilled for rods. I'm figuring I can epoxy certain pieces together for stability and still have some smaller pieces mixed in with the larger ones up high, then they can be moved as needed. I'm interested in feedback and have several other pics from different angles if anyone wants me to post them too.
 
Thanks Shane. I'm not sure if what I'm doing looks good or not. I'm glad you think it does. I just hope I can remember how it all goes when I'm done. It's about 110lbs there, I've got 2 bigger pieces of the Marco left. There' about 15lbs each. I may just break them up and see if I can make a shelf or two.
 
I think the next one I do I'm going to go fairly minimal in the display tank and make it up with rock (and/or media) in the sump. I like less rock, more room for coral and swimming fish.
 
Here's my equipment list so far. If I bought from an ARC member I listed them.

Overflow: Exotic Marine Systems 60"
Sump: 90 gallon AGA
Pump: Deepwater BLDC10
Skimmer: SSA ES2 (ksicard)
ATO: TUNZE OSMOLATOR 3155
Heater: 2 300w EHEIM JAGER's
RODI: BRS 5 Stage (john_shay)
Media Reactors: BRS Standard (ARC member???)
UV Sterilizer: Aqua UV 57 Watt (MYREEFCLUB0070)
Powerhead: Neptune WAV

Controller:
Neptune Apex Gold
VDM
EB8 (rodriguez)
EB8 (MYREEFCLUB0070)
BOB

Lighting:
3 MarsAqua 165W - haven't bought these yet.
2 LET 60" Retrofit 2x80w kits (rodriguez)

I also have two 20 & one 40 gallon Aqueon aquariums for quarantine and frag tanks. There's several other odds & ends, just to much to remember it all.

Lastly. I'd like to give a shout out to Dave (grouper therapy) for designing the stand for me. He took his time, with the measurements I gave him, to send me SketchUp plans. Thanks again for your help and putting up with all the questions I had.
 
I made a mistake on the pump. It's an Apex ready Waveline DC10000II.
Guess the timer was up and I can't edit the post anymore.
 
Well I'm all in now.
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The demo is always the easy part. Now comes the real work.
 
Well the slowest build has finally reached a milestone. The tank is on the stand. But not without a big issue. There's overhang... I feel like its one step forward and two back. Learning everything the first time and I can't account of everything by reading.

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I've got it flush with the front and left sides and this is the overhang on the back and right. It's over by just shy of a half inch on both. I don't know if I should just put a piece of plywood on the top or attach a piece across the full front & right sides.

I sold the tank I was going to use as I just wasn't happy with the amount of scratches on every pane. I polished out what was going to be the front and it came out decent but I still wasn't happy.
Rit hooked me up with a great deal on a new 220. Probably too good to post what he charged me. 😁

So in the last three days I've moved a tank this size five times. I've not only wore my back out but all of my helpers too. None of us want to look at the suction cups anymore let alone actually move it again. I know it has to come off the stand and but without new helpers it's not happening this weekend.

So, which way do you think I should modify the stand, top or sides?
 
Just glue ( titebond 3) and screw a 1 x 6,8,10 to the side of the stand. I promise it will be fine. Not sure which brand screws to use but you may have a source.
 
grouper therapy;1083927 wrote: Just glue ( titebond 3) and screw a 1 x 6,8,10 to the side of the stand. I promise it will be fine. Not sure which brand screws to use but you may have a source.

Totally agree. Especially using Titebond III, that is some good, strong, waterproof glue. It amazes me when I see people build stands and the such and not use a touch of glue. The screws should only be used to keep it all together square and tight while the glue sets up. Properly applied glue is what makes your wood assembly strong and rigid.

Fastenal is a great source for weatherproof wood screws, but 3-1/2" torx deck screws from the HD will do the job just as well. Eventually, exposed to SW for a long enough period, they all will rust. That's why you use wood glue....
 
Birch Plywood (Or other hardwood plywood that is 3/4" thick) cut into 6" wide strips and face glued (entire face evenly) and screwed to the two sides and back would do the job too. If all you have is 1/2" overhang, 3/4" thick material should suffice. With that said, 2x material will be cheaper and produce less waste vs. buying a full sheet of plywood if all you need is a 3 strips. Not a big deal if you ware like me and have scraps of plywood laying around all over the place...lol
 
David was being facetious with his comment about the screws. I sell them for a living. Fastenal is actually a customer of mine. I was going to use "Screwman" for my handle here but decided not to ;)
If you need any let me know. You can see what we have http://www.intercorpusa.com">here</a>. David my offer still stands let me know if you need anything, I'll hook you up.

I don't understand why people don't use glue either. I know the screws are good but it's the wood that will fail where it meets the screw. I used two bottles of Titebond building it and the mixing station.
The stand as it sits now is primed with Kiltz and painted with Appliance Epoxy. I'm not sure how well the glue will adhere to that surface. I'm also unsure about shifting the tank back further over the span. That's the way it already wanted to lean before I put side braces in.

I don't have the plywood so I'm going to have to buy it and have it ripped at Home Depot. I think I'm going to put a sheet across the whole front and strips on the sides. What do you guys think?
 
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