New used tank questions.

[jbanks11]

I am upgrading to a 120 gallon tank from my 29 biocube. I am getting the new tank Wednesday. I know I wont have the floor braced by then. When storing a used tank for long periods of time how should I go about cleaning it for storage? Next question: I have a home built in 2005. The floor joist are the triangular fabricated joist not the traditional 2x10s or whatever. The tank is 4x2 feet and the joists are running parrellel with the tank. I am planning to place it by the wall that backs up to the stairs on the second level. I believe this should be a load bearing wall. Do I need to brace the floor from the concrete slab in the basement or should the floor theoretically hold the weight. I believe the tank will weigh around 1200 pounds when stocked. Any ideas on bracing this type of cheaply constructed floor?

Main questions are how to clean for storage and if the floor will hold the weight and if/or I should be supporting the floor?

 

[grouper therapy]

I'm not sure what you mean by triangular type. Why do you think it is cheaply constructed?

Edit:

 

[harleyx2]

I think he means floor trusses. They should be stronger than a single joist.

 

[grouper therapy]

harleyx2;770722 wrote: I think he means floor trusses. They should be stronger than a single joist.

I understand that but what type ?
Like these?
Being next to stairs doesn't necessarily mean load bearing
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[harleyx2]

Im no carpenter for sure. What are the different type of floor trusses and how do you determine how much weight they will hold? My house also has them and I have no poles in the basement which makes it wide open down there. MAybe the answer will help me decide on a upgrade as well as help the OP. Thanks

 

[grouper therapy]

The ones pictured above and I joist are the most common. There are several factors that determine the load capacity of a floor system. You will need to measure the span of the joist. the size and type of the joist and the spacing of them.

 

[harleyx2]

Yeah mine are very similar to the ones above. I currently have a 65 gallon reef tank and I used to have a 75 with alot of live rock. I would like to upgrade to a nice furniture stand like the ones I have seen you build and a 90 or 120 gallon if the floor will hold it.

 

[grouper therapy]

If you can take those measurements and shoot me a pic I can try to help you figure it out.

 

[harleyx2]

Will do tomorrow after work. Thanks Didnt mean to highjack the post. Hopefully some of this info can help the OP out also.

 

[jbanks11]

I meant floor trusses. I just know how newer houses are thrown together. They are not bulit like they use to bulid them. The trusses are 19 inches a part if I remember correctly.

 

[grouper therapy]

That type floor system IMO is much more stable, predictable and stronger than the old dimensional lumber ever was. It is actually very expensive. The size and span would need to be known as well. The 19.2 OC is very common on that type of floor truss.

 

[harleyx2]

Grouper my trusses are 16 on center apart and 20 inches from top to bottom. They span across 28 feet from poured concrete walls. WIll this hold a 120 reef tank with no additional bracing?

 

[jbanks11]

Mine are 16 inches tall. 19" off center and span 24 feet from a concrete wall to an exterior wall. I believe there is a brace in the middle bc there are 2 6x6 in the middle of the room.

 

[grouper therapy]

I need you guys to shoot me a pic if you can to

 

[rdnelson]

grouper therapy;770836 wrote: That type floor system IMO is much more stable, predictable and stronger than the old dimensional lumber ever was. It is actually very expensive. The size and span would need to be known as well. The 19.2 OC is very common on that type of floor truss.

+1. Plus they sure make it easier to chase wiring through after the fact. . Even in new construction dimensional lumber requires drilling to get plumbing and electrical roughed in. That weakens the joist. With web trusses like that there is no need to compromise the strength of the joist.

 

[grouper therapy]

Harleyx2 yours is good to go with no problems.

 

[harleyx2]

That's good to know. Just wanted to make sure no additional bracing was needed since the tank will be out towards the center of a 28 foot span.

 

[grouper therapy]

harleyx2;771049 wrote: That's good to know. Just wanted to make sure no additional bracing was needed since the tank will be out towards the center of a 28 foot span.

With any engineered floor system their is a deflection factor in it's design. Something around l/360 or l/480 is how it is stated. What I suggest is to fill the tank slowly with fresh water and take notice of the deflection in the floor system as it fills. There will be some as it is designed to deflect but anything more than 1/4" should be addressed. Most residential floor systems were engineered for a minimum of 55lbs psf and up to and in excess of 100lbs psf and that is calculated for an average of the entire floor . That rating increases tremendously toward the perimeter of the system. With a safety factor of 1.5 to 3.0 and placing the tank near the perimeter your floor should hadle the dead and live load with no problems. If you guys want to be 100% sure then a structual engineer is recommended. With my limited knowledge and experience I see no problems. I hope this helps. Lunch is over back to work for me lol