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<p style="text-align:center;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">"Nine Simple Rules"</span></span>
<p style="text-align:center;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Buying Healthy Fish and Keeping Them Healthy</span></span></span>
<p style="text-align:center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;">(applies to coral and invertebrates, too)</span></span>
<p style="text-align:center;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">By Richard “Dick” Hilgers</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;">1. Look past the beauty. Most of us see the beauty in the fish and buy it. In my lifetime, I have interrupted many people looking to buy an obviously sick or distressed fish. I'll walk up to them and say, "I wouldn't buy that fish, if it were my choice". That leads to a conversation about why. It gave me many opportunities to teach a newbie a lesson and gain a friend. It also alienated me to many http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]LFS</span></a> owners so, discretion had to be exercised. So, look past the beauty is lesson number one.[/COLOR]</span>
<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]2. Thoroughly look for external parasites, disease and signs of stress. [/B]If visible, avoid it like the plaque. It isn't that you can't cure it with quarantine, [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-fish-discussion/6095-dick-s-seven-simple-rules-buying-fish.html%20/">[COLOR=#0000ff]copper</span></a>, freshwater dips and a good feeding regimen. The real risk is in[B] contaminating your display tank. [/B]No matter how careful you are, it‘s too easy to cross contaminate. It isn't worth it. Take a pass on sick fish. Signs and behaviors to watch for are, white spots like grains of salt on the exterior of the fish (Ich), twitchy behavior, scraping itself on rocks or sand bottom (sign of parasite), listless behavior (sign of starvation, indigestion or poisoning), raised scales (sign of parasites or infection), discoloration ( sign of stress), lateral line and head area erosion (LLHHD, Lateral line hole in the head disease), rapid respiration (breathing heavily is a sign of parasites in the gills). I highly recommend walking away from every fish showing any of the above obvious signs of illness.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]3. Always request to see the fish eat. [/B]If the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-fish-discussion/6095-dick-s-seven-simple-rules-buying-fish.html%20/"><span style="color: #0000ff;">LFS</span></a> refuses for any reason or excuse, [B]don't buy it[/B]. Tell the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-fish-discussion/6095-dick-s-seven-simple-rules-buying-fish.html%20/"><span style="color: #0000ff;">LFS</span></a>, you will not be buying it [B]for that reason![/B] Many fish are net caught these days and make it through capture, holding, export to your country, holding in importer’s facility, transport to [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LFS</span></a> in your area and displayed for your pleasure and purchase. That’s a lot off handling. [B]Think about this chain of events, [/B]capture, bagging (collector), transport, un-bagging, [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">acclimation</span></a> (Exporter’s facility), bagging, transporting, un-bagging, acclimating (Importer’s facility), bagging, transporting, un-bagging, [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">acclimation</span></a> (LFS), [B]All this time the fish is not feed!!![/B] Yes, it’s true! Fish are not feed to allow them to empty there digestive tract in the holding facilities rather than in their bag, which would quickly raise [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">ammonia</span></a> levels and kill the fish [B]before it gets into your hands![/B] Is there any wonder why the fish is [B]stressed[/B] when you find it at the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LFS</span></a>??? [B]NO!!! Now you know what the wholesale and retail trade doesn’t want you to know.[/B] It is a strict buyer beware situation.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]4. Put a hold on the fish for 24 hours minimum, longer if possible.[/B] Most [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LFSs</span></a> will do this for you. It helps if you are a regular and they know you are coming back. [B]Don’t do this if you don’t intend on returning in 24 to 48 hours. [/B]</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]5. Never buy on impulse[/B]. [B]Ha, fat chance!!! [/B]This is so hard to resist but, so important. That's one reason for putting a hold on the fish. You need time to check your emotions, besides allowing the fish to show it's true colors. Giving the fish a day or two to settle down, get used to his surroundings, and hopefully eat a little. Many [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LFSs</span></a> only throw a token amount of food, usually flake, at their tanks and let the fish fend for themselves. That’s why rule #3 is so important. Don't be afraid to go back to the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-fish-discussion/6095-dick-s-seven-simple-rules-buying-fish.html%20/"><span style="color: #0000ff;">LFS</span></a> and decline the fish. </span>
[/COLOR]
[B]<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">6. Research, Research, Research. </span></span>[/B]<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">You should do your research on fish you are interested in before you go looking for them. However, while the fish is on hold, do your research on this fish. Ask yourself questions, can I take care of this fish? Is it appropriate for my system? Is it's [B]ADULT[/B] size compatible with my [B]current[/B] tank? Never buy a fish that "fits" into your current tank on the basis that you are going to upgrade before it outgrows your current system. The future is totally unpredictable, live in the now. There will be another specimen of that fish when your system is appropriate. [B]Trying to stunt it is not an option, it's cruelty.[/B]</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;">[B]7. Quarantine. [/B]One of the most important steps to success, quarantining, is too often ignored. How careless. How wasteful. How expensive. How cruel. How stupid! Every new fish, coral, invertebrate and bag of [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]macro algae</span></a> we bring to our display tank carries the seeds for disaster. Why would you not quarantine??? MONEY, you say. I can’t afford a second tank, you say. I don’t have the room, you say. . It’s your job to explain why a quarantine tank is so important. If you are a kid living at home with Mom and/or Dad, hopefully both, it’s a little tougher to convince them. [/COLOR]</span>
<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">If you follow the above procedures in making your purchases, you will seldom, maybe never, medicate your quarantine tank. [B]What??? Would you repeat that, please??? [/B]No, just reread it. [B]Well then what is a quarantine system used for if not to medicate new arrivals???[/B] Good question. I’m glad you asked. It shows you are listening or reading, which ever the case may be. In my experience, following my [B]“Nine Simple Rules to Buying Fish”[/B], you will seldom have a need to medicate the quarantined individual. The quarantine system should rather be designated a [B]“Health Spa”[/B]. Becoming proficient at picking fish in good but weakened condition, the function of your “Spa” [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]QT</span></a> system is to give them a place of relaxation with abundant food and time to heal the stress induced weakened condition. A place to renew. </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]8. The transition from “Spa” to Display Tank.[/B] There are many ways to do this. The most important thing to remember is the “Spa” water and the display tank (DT) water are different enough that you want to take the same precaution as if you just brought him home from the LFS.There’s no need to bag and [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">acclimate</span></a> him in that fashion if you are prepared. Here’s my way.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">Time your transfer to DT with a water change. Have newly mixed saltwater ready a day before. Siphon out about 1/3 of the water in the Spa tank and discard. Siphon off water from the [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> and replace the Spa water. Wait 15 minutes. While waiting, replace [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> water with new. Repeat this action until most of the Spa water is replaced with [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> water. Top off [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> with new water, transfer fish via net, plastic container or bag, which ever works best for you. Nets are not the preferred method because you risk injuring the fish during the transfer. </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]9. System readiness[/B]. [B]First prerequisite last on the list, [/B]because system readiness should be a given. If you are in the aquarium hobby, your system's working ability should be top notch, fine tuned and ready for anything with few exceptions (like power failures). I’m going to assume you are a responsible reefer and your system is in optimum condition.</span>
[/COLOR]
<p style="text-align:center;">[B]<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Thoughts on a “Spa” Quarantine System</span></span>[/B]
<span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;">What constitutes a good quarantine system? You will hear everything from a simple 5 or 10 gal tank with no substrate, no [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]Live Rock</span></a> (LR), sponge filter, heater, minimal lighting and up from there to the elaborate. Here’s what I do.[/COLOR]</span>
<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Since I never know a head of time what fish I might encounter at the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]LFS</span></a>, I believe the best size tank is in the 29 to 35 gal range. If you have a 5 or 10 and you run into a Tang that meets your [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> requirements, your 5 or 10 is not going to be adequate for QTing the Tang. So what does the average hobbyist do, he buys it and [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">acclimates</span></a> to the [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a>. Risking a disaster. And disasters have happened just that way. A little forethought, and very little extra expense, a 29 or 35 set up properly, would fit the bill.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">Offer the very best food money can buy. Frozen brine shrimp (BS) is used by nearly everyone including myself. I soak mine in Selcon and or Zoecon, some reefers use liquid garlic. Unfortified BS is nearly worthless. Other foods should include frozen Mysis shrimp (now becoming available live), frozen Cyclop-eeze (the freeze dried is not worth the hassle, it floats), dried Nori for Tangs (terrestrial veggies are worthless as marine fish food, regardless of what you’ve heard), live algae such as Gracelaria and others as long as they are marine based.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">What happens in the event a disease shows itself??? Ich, Velvet, fungus, gill flukes are all possible to show up. With the right sized UV Sterilizer I would wait a day or two and pay particular attention to the fish. Given that he is eating, it may simply go away. The best defense against fish disease is the fish’s own immune system. The purpose of the "Spa" stay is to boast the immune system.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">In the event that a medication MUST be used. I would isolate the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">sump</span></a>, continue to run all water through the UV, leave the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LR</span></a> and sand in the bottom and treat. After treating with a medication the most important thing to do is to TEST the level of medication if there is a test available. If there isn’t a way to test, I would seriously consider not medicating at all. You can lower [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">salinity</span></a> to 1.015 (hypo [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">salinity</span></a> treatment), you can raise the temperature to speed up the life cycle of the parasite allowing the UV to do it’s magic.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">There are many who will offer other quarantine ideas, medication routines, freshwater dips, you name it, I’ve probably tried it. What’s written above has worked for me.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">I hope this helps you have a more rewarding reefing experience. Marine aquariums have held my passion for more than 40 years. I’m now 70 years young (2008) and I truly hope there are reefs in heaven.</span>
[/COLOR]
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Reaching my 71st BD, I realize I cannot help but grow old. However, I refuse to grow up!!! My wife would tell you, "He may be 70+ but, He's going on 17". Life is wonderful with a woman like that.</span></span>
<p style="text-align:center;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Buying Healthy Fish and Keeping Them Healthy</span></span></span>
<p style="text-align:center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;">(applies to coral and invertebrates, too)</span></span>
<p style="text-align:center;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">By Richard “Dick” Hilgers</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;">1. Look past the beauty. Most of us see the beauty in the fish and buy it. In my lifetime, I have interrupted many people looking to buy an obviously sick or distressed fish. I'll walk up to them and say, "I wouldn't buy that fish, if it were my choice". That leads to a conversation about why. It gave me many opportunities to teach a newbie a lesson and gain a friend. It also alienated me to many http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]LFS</span></a> owners so, discretion had to be exercised. So, look past the beauty is lesson number one.[/COLOR]</span>
<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]2. Thoroughly look for external parasites, disease and signs of stress. [/B]If visible, avoid it like the plaque. It isn't that you can't cure it with quarantine, [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-fish-discussion/6095-dick-s-seven-simple-rules-buying-fish.html%20/">[COLOR=#0000ff]copper</span></a>, freshwater dips and a good feeding regimen. The real risk is in[B] contaminating your display tank. [/B]No matter how careful you are, it‘s too easy to cross contaminate. It isn't worth it. Take a pass on sick fish. Signs and behaviors to watch for are, white spots like grains of salt on the exterior of the fish (Ich), twitchy behavior, scraping itself on rocks or sand bottom (sign of parasite), listless behavior (sign of starvation, indigestion or poisoning), raised scales (sign of parasites or infection), discoloration ( sign of stress), lateral line and head area erosion (LLHHD, Lateral line hole in the head disease), rapid respiration (breathing heavily is a sign of parasites in the gills). I highly recommend walking away from every fish showing any of the above obvious signs of illness.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]3. Always request to see the fish eat. [/B]If the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-fish-discussion/6095-dick-s-seven-simple-rules-buying-fish.html%20/"><span style="color: #0000ff;">LFS</span></a> refuses for any reason or excuse, [B]don't buy it[/B]. Tell the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-fish-discussion/6095-dick-s-seven-simple-rules-buying-fish.html%20/"><span style="color: #0000ff;">LFS</span></a>, you will not be buying it [B]for that reason![/B] Many fish are net caught these days and make it through capture, holding, export to your country, holding in importer’s facility, transport to [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LFS</span></a> in your area and displayed for your pleasure and purchase. That’s a lot off handling. [B]Think about this chain of events, [/B]capture, bagging (collector), transport, un-bagging, [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">acclimation</span></a> (Exporter’s facility), bagging, transporting, un-bagging, acclimating (Importer’s facility), bagging, transporting, un-bagging, [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">acclimation</span></a> (LFS), [B]All this time the fish is not feed!!![/B] Yes, it’s true! Fish are not feed to allow them to empty there digestive tract in the holding facilities rather than in their bag, which would quickly raise [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">ammonia</span></a> levels and kill the fish [B]before it gets into your hands![/B] Is there any wonder why the fish is [B]stressed[/B] when you find it at the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LFS</span></a>??? [B]NO!!! Now you know what the wholesale and retail trade doesn’t want you to know.[/B] It is a strict buyer beware situation.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]4. Put a hold on the fish for 24 hours minimum, longer if possible.[/B] Most [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LFSs</span></a> will do this for you. It helps if you are a regular and they know you are coming back. [B]Don’t do this if you don’t intend on returning in 24 to 48 hours. [/B]</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]5. Never buy on impulse[/B]. [B]Ha, fat chance!!! [/B]This is so hard to resist but, so important. That's one reason for putting a hold on the fish. You need time to check your emotions, besides allowing the fish to show it's true colors. Giving the fish a day or two to settle down, get used to his surroundings, and hopefully eat a little. Many [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LFSs</span></a> only throw a token amount of food, usually flake, at their tanks and let the fish fend for themselves. That’s why rule #3 is so important. Don't be afraid to go back to the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-fish-discussion/6095-dick-s-seven-simple-rules-buying-fish.html%20/"><span style="color: #0000ff;">LFS</span></a> and decline the fish. </span>
[/COLOR]
[B]<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">6. Research, Research, Research. </span></span>[/B]<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">You should do your research on fish you are interested in before you go looking for them. However, while the fish is on hold, do your research on this fish. Ask yourself questions, can I take care of this fish? Is it appropriate for my system? Is it's [B]ADULT[/B] size compatible with my [B]current[/B] tank? Never buy a fish that "fits" into your current tank on the basis that you are going to upgrade before it outgrows your current system. The future is totally unpredictable, live in the now. There will be another specimen of that fish when your system is appropriate. [B]Trying to stunt it is not an option, it's cruelty.[/B]</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;">[B]7. Quarantine. [/B]One of the most important steps to success, quarantining, is too often ignored. How careless. How wasteful. How expensive. How cruel. How stupid! Every new fish, coral, invertebrate and bag of [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]macro algae</span></a> we bring to our display tank carries the seeds for disaster. Why would you not quarantine??? MONEY, you say. I can’t afford a second tank, you say. I don’t have the room, you say. . It’s your job to explain why a quarantine tank is so important. If you are a kid living at home with Mom and/or Dad, hopefully both, it’s a little tougher to convince them. [/COLOR]</span>
<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">If you follow the above procedures in making your purchases, you will seldom, maybe never, medicate your quarantine tank. [B]What??? Would you repeat that, please??? [/B]No, just reread it. [B]Well then what is a quarantine system used for if not to medicate new arrivals???[/B] Good question. I’m glad you asked. It shows you are listening or reading, which ever the case may be. In my experience, following my [B]“Nine Simple Rules to Buying Fish”[/B], you will seldom have a need to medicate the quarantined individual. The quarantine system should rather be designated a [B]“Health Spa”[/B]. Becoming proficient at picking fish in good but weakened condition, the function of your “Spa” [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]QT</span></a> system is to give them a place of relaxation with abundant food and time to heal the stress induced weakened condition. A place to renew. </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]8. The transition from “Spa” to Display Tank.[/B] There are many ways to do this. The most important thing to remember is the “Spa” water and the display tank (DT) water are different enough that you want to take the same precaution as if you just brought him home from the LFS.There’s no need to bag and [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">acclimate</span></a> him in that fashion if you are prepared. Here’s my way.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">Time your transfer to DT with a water change. Have newly mixed saltwater ready a day before. Siphon out about 1/3 of the water in the Spa tank and discard. Siphon off water from the [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> and replace the Spa water. Wait 15 minutes. While waiting, replace [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> water with new. Repeat this action until most of the Spa water is replaced with [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> water. Top off [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> with new water, transfer fish via net, plastic container or bag, which ever works best for you. Nets are not the preferred method because you risk injuring the fish during the transfer. </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">[B]9. System readiness[/B]. [B]First prerequisite last on the list, [/B]because system readiness should be a given. If you are in the aquarium hobby, your system's working ability should be top notch, fine tuned and ready for anything with few exceptions (like power failures). I’m going to assume you are a responsible reefer and your system is in optimum condition.</span>
[/COLOR]
<p style="text-align:center;">[B]<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Thoughts on a “Spa” Quarantine System</span></span>[/B]
<span style="font-family: Verdana;"><span style="color: #2c2c2c;">What constitutes a good quarantine system? You will hear everything from a simple 5 or 10 gal tank with no substrate, no [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]Live Rock</span></a> (LR), sponge filter, heater, minimal lighting and up from there to the elaborate. Here’s what I do.[/COLOR]</span>
<span style="color: #2c2c2c;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Since I never know a head of time what fish I might encounter at the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html">[COLOR=#016798]LFS</span></a>, I believe the best size tank is in the 29 to 35 gal range. If you have a 5 or 10 and you run into a Tang that meets your [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a> requirements, your 5 or 10 is not going to be adequate for QTing the Tang. So what does the average hobbyist do, he buys it and [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">acclimates</span></a> to the [IMG]http:///"><span style="color: #016798;">DT</span></a>. Risking a disaster. And disasters have happened just that way. A little forethought, and very little extra expense, a 29 or 35 set up properly, would fit the bill.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">Offer the very best food money can buy. Frozen brine shrimp (BS) is used by nearly everyone including myself. I soak mine in Selcon and or Zoecon, some reefers use liquid garlic. Unfortified BS is nearly worthless. Other foods should include frozen Mysis shrimp (now becoming available live), frozen Cyclop-eeze (the freeze dried is not worth the hassle, it floats), dried Nori for Tangs (terrestrial veggies are worthless as marine fish food, regardless of what you’ve heard), live algae such as Gracelaria and others as long as they are marine based.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">What happens in the event a disease shows itself??? Ich, Velvet, fungus, gill flukes are all possible to show up. With the right sized UV Sterilizer I would wait a day or two and pay particular attention to the fish. Given that he is eating, it may simply go away. The best defense against fish disease is the fish’s own immune system. The purpose of the "Spa" stay is to boast the immune system.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">In the event that a medication MUST be used. I would isolate the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">sump</span></a>, continue to run all water through the UV, leave the [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">LR</span></a> and sand in the bottom and treat. After treating with a medication the most important thing to do is to TEST the level of medication if there is a test available. If there isn’t a way to test, I would seriously consider not medicating at all. You can lower [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">salinity</span></a> to 1.015 (hypo [IMG]http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6139-nine-simple-rules-healthier-fish.html"><span style="color: #016798;">salinity</span></a> treatment), you can raise the temperature to speed up the life cycle of the parasite allowing the UV to do it’s magic.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">There are many who will offer other quarantine ideas, medication routines, freshwater dips, you name it, I’ve probably tried it. What’s written above has worked for me.</span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana;">I hope this helps you have a more rewarding reefing experience. Marine aquariums have held my passion for more than 40 years. I’m now 70 years young (2008) and I truly hope there are reefs in heaven.</span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Reaching my 71st BD, I realize I cannot help but grow old. However, I refuse to grow up!!! My wife would tell you, "He may be 70+ but, He's going on 17". Life is wonderful with a woman like that.</span></span>
