Nitrate Nightmare

[rk4435]

I noticed last weekend that my nitrates were at 20 ppm in my 29 gallon biocube and my 36 gallon bowfront. Since I have had no other problems I assumed things would be fine with my normal water change.

Last night I noticed that my Rose Bubble Tip Anemone look horrible, it split a few days ago. I checked my parameters and had zero ammonia, zero nitrites, and somewhere between 80-100 ppm nitrates in both tanks. I did a water change and a double dose of Prime after.

This morning the Nitrate level was just as bad. The local LFS recommended that I use Acurel and Microbacter to take care of the Nitrates.

I used both as instructed and ten hours later the Nitrate levels are still extremely high. My wife thinks they are about 60 ppm and I think 80 ppm according to the API kit; I followed the directions to a "T" on the API kit and also did a 3x normal does of Prime.

How long should it take to lower the Nitrates using these methods? I have read so many conflicting things on various forums that I am confused. The coral in the biocube looks great. Everything in the 36 bowfront looks great as well aside from the anemone, all fish are active and eating.

I am certain that the source of the Nitrates is overfeeding.

 

[ralph atl]

Just do some massive water changes over the next two weeks and develop a plan to help reduce trates such as carbon dosing, Seachem matrix, etc.....Rox carbon, wet skimming, etc

Stop over feeding and putting anything in excerpt calcium, mag, and alk....

 

[jennm]

There is no "instant fix" to high nitrate. It didn't get that high overnight, that is a long-term buildup that probably snuck up on you quietly.

Rather than massive water changes, I suggest changing a smaller volume of water, but frequently, until you get it under control. I suggest 10-15% every 2 or 3 days.

What test kit did you use? Did you have the water tested with a different kit (ie different brand?) Some tests will give you a false high reading when the reagents expire. I'd have the reading verified before taking drastic action.

If it's an API test kit - absolutely have it checked again using a better kit.

Jenn

 

[jdavid]

seachem prime will temporarily detoxify nitrates.
they still read as nitrate on the test, but they are temporaily non-toxic after dosing for a couple of days

 

[velocityoflove]

I Used An Api Kit To Double Check Nitrates Along With A Seachem Tes. Seachem Read 1. Api Read 20. Definitely Double Check With AnotheR Test Kit!

 

[rdnelson]

Since both tanks read the same I am almost certain it is a bad test kit. I can't imagine both tanks climbing at the exact same rate. On top of that, it is normal for an anemone to look like crap after tearing itself in half.

Get a new test kit but not API.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ichthyoid]

I'd trash the API and trust the SeaChem.

 

[jamescook]

Look into sulphur denitrator. So simple and works.

 

[patrick]

The Red Sea NO3/PO4 X works pretty well too......its fancy carbon dosing.........but in the meantime you do need to do larger water changes. Just match the water as perfectly as you can in terms of temp, pH and salinity. Remember it is simple math.....if they are 80ppm and you do one 50% wc....with perfect water.....they will be 40ppm. If you do a 10% a day they will be 72, then 65, then 58, then 53, and then 47 and so on and it will take several days to bring them down.......nitrates and phosphates are two parameters that corals and inverts tolerate lowering ASAP.

On another front....how are you feeding? You say it is from overfeeding? I would recommend only adding a few pieces of food at a time and ensure that it is all consumed before adding any more. If you have fish or inverts that need target feeding then find a way to get them food, but I would not blast the tanks with food. Most marine fish will not eat food that is not flowing where they can see it. So, if the food gets on the substrate or in the rocks......it will likely not get eaten unless you have hoards of inverts.......few do.

Hope you get it fixed.

 

[rk4435]

Thank all of you for your advise. I have tried to pull together the various recommendations. I purchased some Seachem Matrix and Stability today and did another water change when I got home this evening. I did not come across a better test kit in today's travels so I will order one tonight.
Thus far I have:
1. 10% water changes every other day, to be continued.
2. Prime overdose and a Nitrate removing pad from the LFS in Chattanooga.
3. Added Seachem Matrix and Stability this evening.

I now understand that the Nitrates have been converted to a non toxic form by Prime but my test still shows 80 to 100 Nitrate ppm.

Do I continue Prime doses on a daily basis? As it is, the Nictrobacter and Seachem Stability say they should be used daily for now. I want to do enough but not too much.

Thanks,
Robb

Edit: As for the overfeeding, I purchased two awesome Picasso Clowns from a club member two weeks ago. I also purchased some very small pellet food that they enjoy but a lot of it passes them by for the Watchman Goby below so I think I overdid it ensuring that they had enough food.

In addition, my wife went Marine Snow crazy trying to put all corals on steroids. I think we have learned a lesson and the feeding have been reduced.

 

[patrick]

The nitrate is only bound by Prime for 1, maybe 2 days tops. So redosing will be required. Prime is primarily a reducer and it's "detoxification" of nitrate is somewhat vague. Even Seachem cannot chemically explain how it is accomplished. They make their claim off anecdotal reports from customers. FWIW, nitrate is not really toxic to fish at the levels you are reporting......but it will greatly harm reef inhabitants.....especially snails, sea stars and SPS. If you did a 10% water change then they should be down to 72 ppm now if they were are 80 ppm. Not sure there is much of a difference between the effect of 72 and 80 ppm. I'd seriously consider a larger water change next time.

 

[ichthyoid]

+1 ... Larger water change

 

[jennm]

How about backing up and finding out if you REALLY have a nitrate problem in the first place?

What you've already done, won't harm anything, but before you spend the rent on more solutions, wouldn't it be worth the time and trouble to confirm whether the issue exists in your tank, or the test kit you were using?

Jenn

 

[rk4435]

I am getting a Seachem test kit. Is there any other ways to narrow it down?

 

[jennm]

Sit tight until you have the real result - then come up with a plan. If you've already done the Prime thing, you're fine for a day or two til you figure it out.

Nitrate doesn't go sky-high overnight, so IF (big IF) if it is high, then a series of small but frequent water changes will lower it again, and examining your routines with the tank, can prevent it from happening again.

I'm just not convinced that there's even a problem yet, so don't put the proverbial cart, before the horse.

Jenn

 

[rk4435]

Thanks! I just noticed that you are affiliated with Instant Ocean. We stopped in on our way back from the coral show and will be in touch soon about a conversion for a biocube top.

 

[jennm]

Instant Ocean?

You mean Imagine Ocean? Yes, I own the place

(We sell Instant Ocean....)

Jenn

 

[jballew268]

I have been fighting the same battle with my Biocube29 for a couple of months now. All life is doing fine except for a stylo that died right before my eyes, it went from beautiful to solid white within a day. Everything else seems to be doing fine but I cant get the nitrates under control, even with MANY small water changes. I use seachem matrix, purigen, and chemipure elite as my filter media. I did remove the filter sponge which helped a little. I also dose with stability. I am at my wits end with what to do. I have thought removing all water and most of my sand and just kind of starting over. If I do this I shouldnt have to much of a cycle but hopefully get the nitrates to zero and holding it at 0

 

[camellia]

If you read the above posts the best recommendation I see is to get another reading by buying a good test kit or take it it a LFS to compare. Then if you really have the problem there's great info above
Good luck.

 

[jennm]

Camellia;864300 wrote: If you read the above posts the best recommendation I see is to get another reading by buying a good test kit or take it it a LFS to compare. Then if you really have the problem there's great info above
Good luck.

Exactly. Make sure there really is a problem first.

Jballew - what test kit are you using?