nitrates and algae problem.. out of nowhere

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umbrellacorp

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Im hoping some of you can give me some advice. I have recently started having nitrate, phosphate, and algae problems. In the past i have not had this. This all started when i got my bubble corral, then i got it back in control. Added some daisy polyps and now its REALLY bad. My nitrates went from 15-20 to 40 overnight. I didnt believe it myself, so i had the store check to confirm. I had just done a 20% water change a week earlier. I did about a 10% water change yesterday and added some phosguard. As i said, this all began after adding corals. Im also getting green hair algae for the first time. Ive begun dosing calicum for the first time ever since its low for the first time. Could having the two corals really increase my bioload that much? I have plenty of filtration. Emperor 400 with regular filters and polyfilters (changed monthly), i have a fluval with 4 filters (changed and clean monthly) and a seaclone skimmer. I have two circ pumps aimed at the top to increase oxygen, and lots of halimeda. I have just ordered a new reef octopus skimmer because the seaclone is starting to run pretty crummy even after i take it apart and clean it. Any suggestions? Should i take the corals back out? Everything i have is listed in my sig. Thanks guys. And how long should i wait before i do another water change? A week? * On a side note.. everything in the tank (live stock) looks absolutely *perfect* - Also a good majority of my snails are dying. The hermits seem to be okay. Thanks guys.
 
I don't have the experience that others on this site do but one thing I am sure of is that you can never do too many water changes. Lots of smaller ones are better than one big one. I would mix up some water for a water change BUT before actually doning the WC I would test that water. That way you know the water you are putting back in isn't the problem. If the new water is good, I would do a water change each day for a few days and see how it looks. I am sure others will have more ideas but that seems like a good place to start.
 
The corals did not add to the bioload that much if any. The snails dying however would cause a rise in nitrates. Whay are your other levels (ph,alk,temp.)at ?I suspect it could be the calcium dosing . What are you using and how much?
 
I've lived this one.
Consider changing all filter media and add carbon/ GFO to strip phosphates. Snag some Cheato to try and get nitrate export going.
If you are making your own water, consider changing RO/DI filters and membranes, at least check your source water for tds and phosphates.
If you are buying water, ask to witness a tds reading, and tests.
From what you are describing, my guess of the source could be a number of things not related to the addition of the 2 pieces, but coincidental.
How old are your lamps? (could be related)
have you changed food brand/type or opened a new container? (could have phosphates in food)
Have you changed feeding habits?
Have you changed to live or frozen food recently?
My experience with bad stuff happening usually is a direct result of changing something and creating a self-inflicted situation.
Even if you did something once, like drop a brine shrimp cube in the tank can have an effect days to weeks later.
*reflects on some innocuous appearing things I've done that went wrong...*
 
I agree that the additional corals would not have caused this. My guess is that the low performance of the seaclone is catching up. Also, all those mechanical filters are nitrate factories.

The fact that the nitrates increased when you added the corals is just an illusory correlation.
 
There's no way the nitrates rose that fast "overnight". Nitrate is the last step in the process... ammonia to nitrite to nitrate.

There's no way adding a couple of corals caused anything to spike.

What kinds of test kits are you using? I suggest before you do anything rash, have your water checked with a different, reliable kit.

IF the nitrates are indeed high, it happened over time. If they are high, a series of small, frequent water changes are in order to get them back down again.

IF the nitrates are high, you need to take a look at the big picture to figure out how they got that way in the first place.

Same goes for phosphate, although it usually comes from different sources - your water, food and waste. Usually if you're taking the steps to reduce the nitrate, the phosphate reduces too - unless your source water is the source of the phosphate.

Jenn
 
Agree on the overnight point. 15-20 on a test kit to 40 may just be slightly different shade of yellow (depending on what test kit you're using). My guess is that it is just happening over time.

UmbrellaCorp;713938 wrote: I have plenty of filtration. Emperor 400 with regular filters and polyfilters (changed monthly), i have a fluval with 4 filters (changed and clean monthly) and a seaclone skimmer.
Click to expand...

I really think it may be related to the filters. Assuming you have enough bio filtration, might consider cleaning every 2 weeks or getting rid of some of this. Better yet, throw some seachem matrix in there, but make it accessible so you can keep it clean.

Also, look at carbon-dosing :)
 
I'd lose the canister filter. The Emperor alone on that tank (without biowheels but with mechanical and chemical filtration) should suffice. The powerheads and skimmer (upgrade is a good move, Seaclone is junk, IMO) add additional flow which is also good.

The term "nitrate factory" is a little bit misleading. The canisters and bio wheels don't create nitrate out of nowhere, but they don't help process the nitrate into nitrogen. Even with using those, adequate water changes can keep nitrate in check but your system will work more efficiently if your filtration doesn't harbor the nitrates.

Again - I'd suggest having the water re-tested with a different kit from what you're using (and the LFS if they're using the same brand you are).

Given that you're having algae issues though, I'd venture to guess that there are elevated nitrate/phosphates because those, along with light, are what the algae need to flourish.

Jenn
 
JennM;713967 wrote: I'd lose the canister filter. The Emperor alone on that tank (without biowheels but with mechanical and chemical filtration) should suffice. The powerheads and skimmer (upgrade is a good move, Seaclone is junk, IMO) add additional flow which is also good.

The term "nitrate factory" is a little bit misleading. The canisters and bio wheels don't create nitrate out of nowhere, but they don't help process the nitrate into nitrogen. Even with using those, adequate water changes can keep nitrate in check but your system will work more efficiently if your filtration doesn't harbor the nitrates.

Again - I'd suggest having the water re-tested with a different kit from what you're using (and the LFS if they're using the same brand you are).

Given that you're having algae issues though, I'd venture to guess that there are elevated nitrate/phosphates because those, along with light, are what the algae need to flourish.

Jenn
Click to expand...
I'd listen to her:up:
 
I'm assuming you aren't using a sump. This would be a good upgrade. You can set up a refugium to help
Edit: Also shouldn't you have the powerheads placed torward the rock to help export stuff from the rock and not pointed at the surface
 
Test your source water. If I remember correctly you were using tap water until very recently. Test that water and see what you readings are, very good chance that they are high in phosphates.
 
No no no ive NEVER used tap water in my tank lol thats the store im working for. We did just get an RO unit. The test kit i use and the one that blue planet both saw 15-20 nitrate then 40 the next day. I tested and they tested its the API kit i believe. I bought some Purigen and sea gel and put it in the fluval today. Im going to wait another week and do a 10% water change. I guess its adding the calcium its really the only thing i have done different in a long time. I clean the fluval out completely every month as well as the seaclone -- but hopefully my reef octopuss skimmer will get here this week


Sent from my iPhone4s via Tapatalk
 
Parameters as of this morning after a 10% water change yesterday and 15% a week before:
nitrate 30
nitrite 0
PH 8.3
phosphate 0.1
Alk 180 (i added some buffer)
calcium 300
Sg 1.023 ; and temp is constant @ 78


Sent from my iPhone4s via Tapatalk
 
Thanks for all your help guys i appreciate it. Hopefully ill get this is check soon. Should i take out the biowheels or leave them in?


Sent from my iPhone4s via Tapatalk
 
Respectfully, that API kit is worthless, IMO. Test with a *different* (reliable) kit to determine whether or not you really have a problem.

Supplementing Calcium does not add/create/generate phosphate.

Jenn

Edit:
JennM;713967 wrote: I'd lose the canister filter. The Emperor alone on that tank (without biowheels but with mechanical and chemical filtration) should suffice. The powerheads and skimmer (upgrade is a good move, Seaclone is junk, IMO) add additional flow which is also good.

The term "nitrate factory" is a little bit misleading. The canisters and bio wheels don't create nitrate out of nowhere, but they don't help process the nitrate into nitrogen. Even with using those, adequate water changes can keep nitrate in check but your system will work more efficiently if your filtration doesn't harbor the nitrates.

Again - I'd suggest having the water re-tested with a different kit from what you're using (and the LFS if they're using the same brand you are).

Given that you're having algae issues though, I'd venture to guess that there are elevated nitrate/phosphates because those, along with light, are what the algae need to flourish.

Jenn
Click to expand...

Worth saying again... without typing it all again. ;)

Jenn
 
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