Nitrates

[ZapataInc]

My nitrates were hovering around 20ppms once I got my new system up and running. About a week to 2 weeks ago I got my fuge up and running. My nitrates have gone down to 0 in that time. I know that is ok but there should be some sort of nitrates in the system. Right now my fuge light runs 9pm-7am. Should I dail it back?

 

[qasimja]

my nitrites were close to 0 so were my phosphates then i started getting dinos

 

[Tanster2]

It doesn't sound unusual to have nearly undetectable nitrate levels if you're running a fuge. A good fuge can definitely cut your nitrates and phosphates to very low numbers. It is also hard to detect nitrates because they are being consumed as fast as they are being produced at times. You can always reduce the amount of Macro in your fuge or dose nitrate.

 

[york1]

Feed heavier

 

[Dmitri]

From what I have gathered, there is a sweet spot between them which is 16 (nitrates) : 1 (phosphates) in a reef tank system.
Here is a graph I found to be helpful into understanding of algae effects

 

[CJD18]

Feed heavier

I did that then phosphates go up

 

[bhodges82]

Do you plan on adding any fish in the near future? If not, I would suggest cutting the macro in the fuge in half, this will reduce the amount of nitrate being absorbed and help you find a better balance for your nutrients.

 

[ZapataInc]

Do you plan on adding any fish in the near future? If not, I would suggest cutting the macro in the fuge in half, this will reduce the amount of nitrate being absorbed and help you find a better balance for your nutrients.

I already have fish in there. Two clowns, a medium yellow tang, a yellow watchman, pistol shrimp, cleaner shrimp, mixed corals, and cuc.

 

[ActiveAngel]

@myaquariumpro , Love the chart!

I agree with @Tanster2 , low nitrates are not an issue. I’m usually at 0ppm (rather... under 0.25ppm, the lowest Red Sea can test), and have maintained tanks at this level for years. Naturally, mine is due to the refugium. There are nitrates in the system, they are just in low quantities and get absorbed immediately by one organism or another.

That said, slightly higher nutrients may not be a bad idea either.

 

[bhodges82]

I already have fish in there. Two clowns, a medium yellow tang, a yellow watchman, pistol shrimp, cleaner shrimp, mixed corals, and cuc.

I meant any more fish than you have already. If not, cut your macro in half, or take out 1/4 of it.

 

[fidofence1]

my sps look pale when I hit zero so I dose Seachem Phosphorus and Loudwolf sodium Nitrate to keep Po4 and No3 from bottoming out

 

[schwaggs]

Great info in this thread so far. The chart showing the relationship between phosphates, nitrates and the types of algae growth is very telling!

I too fought dinos in my system years ago when my nitrates and phosphates were at zero. Thinking at the time was nitrate and phosphate were too high (even though they were reading zero). Ran GFO and a fuge that grew chaeto like crazy and the dinos and hair algae just kept going despite ZERO feedings. Finally gave up and restarted my system 3 years ago.

To my horror, dinos started coming back a year into the new system. Nitrates and phosphates were at zero. My solution was to add more fish and feed more. My nitrates and phosphates are usually at or very near zero without GFO or a fuge. I can't get phosphates over .1 and nitrates over .25 despite feeding... a lot. Must be something in my rock, sand or skimmer that is consuming all the nutrients.

If I don't feed my tank 4 cubes of frozen food each and every day (when I am out of town and my family forgets to feed a few days in a week , for example) I notice what looks like stringy dinos start to establish in spots.

I also noticed the color of my corals improve since adding the fish and upping feeding. When nitrates and phosphates were 0, 0, the corals were much more pale.

As the chart says, you need to keep nitrate and phosphate in balance in relationship to each other.