I just set my new 150g about 2 months ago and transfered all my live stock over from old tank .No new additions replace all my sand but used water and rock from old tank. Got up this morning and two of my tangs have ick. Is there anything i can do other than rip my whole tank apart to get fish out and treat them?
Ok im not sure how but got ick
- Thread starter kzoo
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according to some people, ick is always in the tank. it just needs the right conditions to latch onto the fish, esp the tangs. when they're stressed, the immune system is weakened, and therefore given ick an opportunity.
I have had my hippo infected with ick before but I did not tear down my tank. all I did was feed it nutritious food with garlic and voila, the tang was "cured" over the course of week. my other fishes were not infected.
I guess you can call me very lucky as I have had it happened to me a few times.
I guess you can call me very lucky as I have had it happened to me a few times.
also, it is in my experience that if you have tangs, you must have cleaner shrimps. I could be wrong but so far I have yet to be corrected
+1
My yellow tangs got ick a long time ago and it went away, I think, from feeding garlic nori. However, my pajama cardinals got ick not long after I bought them, and they beat the ick without me doing anything for them. It's been well over a year with no signs of ick.
I run a uv and the jury is still out on its effectiveness. I'm with the others and believe in keeping everything stable, stress free and let it run its course.
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Have you placed any new corals in the system?
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I don't think you must. I had 10 tangs in my last system and never had ich. Never had shrimp of any kind either. I did run a large uv with slow flow.
maybe it came with your water and rocks. these are free floating agents and will be wherever the water current takes them, be floating in the water or live rock/sand. there's really no way to screen them 100% or probably very difficult.
I tried going ich free by leaving my tank fallow for 3 months after losing some fish. I qt'd new fish and loat half after putting i the tank. I never figuref out the issue for sure.
Since the all was well till about 3 weeks ago when my clown picked up ick. I tried supplementing the feeding with garlic but continued seeing decline over the next week. Finally when he had welts and white patches over one side of his body I set up a qt and added copper. The ich spots seemed to clear up almost overnight.
Next I bought a new hydrometer so I could use one for copper. Before testing the copper qt, I compared the hydrometer readings...holy cow what a difference. One was measuring 1.026, the new one remained pegged to the top. I ordered a refractometer and found it agreed with my old hydrometer. I have since checked a few times and have came to the conclision that both hydrometers are off. I am guessing the salinity swings may have had something to do with the clown picking up ick.
Neither my diamond goby or algae blenny showed signs of ich the entire time.
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Since the all was well till about 3 weeks ago when my clown picked up ick. I tried supplementing the feeding with garlic but continued seeing decline over the next week. Finally when he had welts and white patches over one side of his body I set up a qt and added copper. The ich spots seemed to clear up almost overnight.
Next I bought a new hydrometer so I could use one for copper. Before testing the copper qt, I compared the hydrometer readings...holy cow what a difference. One was measuring 1.026, the new one remained pegged to the top. I ordered a refractometer and found it agreed with my old hydrometer. I have since checked a few times and have came to the conclision that both hydrometers are off. I am guessing the salinity swings may have had something to do with the clown picking up ick.
Neither my diamond goby or algae blenny showed signs of ich the entire time.
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I'll by those Hydrometers from you.
Maybe in a few weeks. I have them soaking to see if there is anything making them bind.
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I am one of those people. If they are eating they are fine. Increasing the temp to 82 will speed up the ich process and just keep them well fed and they will be fine.
I have twice left my tank fallow for 3 and 4 month periods while treating all the fish with copper and then with quinine sulphate. Still have ich in the tank which shows up when I add new fish the tangs dont like.
Will Ick cysts lay dormant in the tissue of fish that have had it? If it has not been seen for lengthy periods of time then it must not have been in an active animated state during those times. If a tank has gone fallow and the life cycle is broken then comes back later when there were no additions to the livestock then it must have been in the fish all along, right?
The egg/larval stage can come in on any rock or frag you get and since most stuff that kills ich kills corals its easy to get even after treating and a fallow period.
It doesnt stay on the fish since thats only the maturing part of the life cycle.
Its very possible to cure a fish of ich, but near impossible to keep a tank ich free IMO.
It doesnt stay on the fish since thats only the maturing part of the life cycle.
Its very possible to cure a fish of ich, but near impossible to keep a tank ich free IMO.
It is very strange to me that for three years not sign of any ick and no new additions and bayer dipped all frags but then two fish with an outbreak. Good thing is all fish have been eating the whole time and now I don't see anymore spots. I know that they may return but the fish don't show any signs of being sick.
I was not one who thought that every tank had ick but I may now.
I was not one who thought that every tank had ick but I may now.
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I'm not sure if a tank can be free of ich but I've never seen it on my fish, so I hope someone can tell me where it has been if it is my tank. I'm not sure a bayer dip would handle ich if it did come in on your frags or the water with them.
Ich happens.
I've seen people follow all the most excessive protocols to 'get rid' of it, and somehow it still comes back.
Low stress, good diet, the fish will overcome it and keep it at bay.
Tangs are easy targets because they have thin scales/skin so it's easier to feed on a tang, than on a fish with a tougher exterior.
Be sure to calibrate the refractometer, if you haven't already - use calibration solution to do it. In recent years I never saw one that was accurate out of the box. "Factory calibrated" is not to be trusted, in my experience.
Jenn
I've seen people follow all the most excessive protocols to 'get rid' of it, and somehow it still comes back.
Low stress, good diet, the fish will overcome it and keep it at bay.
Tangs are easy targets because they have thin scales/skin so it's easier to feed on a tang, than on a fish with a tougher exterior.
Be sure to calibrate the refractometer, if you haven't already - use calibration solution to do it. In recent years I never saw one that was accurate out of the box. "Factory calibrated" is not to be trusted, in my experience.
Jenn
