Phosphates

[fishlips]

Lets talk about phosphates. Im trying to narrow down why dull colors only on my acros. After much research on pale or dull colors. Im going to rule out lighting for now. Since I see little short patches of algae on a few rocks, ( the tangs keep nipped ) and spme in overflow, I want to consider phosphates being the problem. I have Red Sea pro test kit the reads 0.
I read a article that stated means this means nothing. Said it could be 10x that. Stated to try using a *Hanna ULR Phosphorus Checker (HI-736). Dose anyone have both of these test kits, and test with both, and tell me if there is a big difference. Also stated in article by looking in your tank will tell you as well by the algae. Alright, lets here your thoughts.

 

[genesis]

I would agree. To get the most precise reading you have to check with the Hanna ultra low phosphate test

 

[fishlips]

Yes, I'm thinking they are alot higher then 0. The problem i think after reading, that the phosphates are preventing me from getting any nitrates. Im going to try to remove as much Po4, and leave my filter sock in for a week. Been changing every 2 days.

 

[jvb89]

 

[jvb89]

 

[fishlips]

Thanks, very good read.

 

[jvb89]

No problem. I know personally that if I keep my nitrates 2-5 it will keep my phosphates in check. And I won't have color issues in sps.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[russ-iv]

Jvb89;1072439 wrote: http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/help-my-sps-are-paling-and-i-dont-know-what-to-do.210035/">http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/help-my-sps-are-paling-and-i-dont-know-what-to-do.210035/</a>[/QUOTE]

I wrote that article a while back. Adam from BC doses sodium nitrate. A few of us dose potassium nitrate.

You need po4. anything below .2ppm will net you decent coloration barring you have more light.

What is your par?

800 at the coral? try .1 po4 and 8 ppm nitrate and 11 alk
300 at the coral? try .02 po4 and 2ppm nitrate and 9 alk

get what i am saying?

Also... look up "gfo overdose".

The red sea pro kit is actually more reliable than the hanna one imo. hanna is dependent on the reagents you throw at it and most hanna checker people have the red sea pro kit. the hanna kit checks for phosphorus, not inorganic phosphate. You can easily 0 that out with GAC, but the inorganic phosphate would remain.

Seachem's flourish phosphate is what i use to get po4 up. And no amount of overfeeding nets me any.

Besides what the test kits tell me, if i go 3 days and my front glass looks clean as a whistle.... in goes the phosphate. I dont even test.

here is an abstract about symbiodinium density within maxima clams.

[IMG]http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF00347130">http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF00347130</a>

while not a coral, they provide the same energy a coral's symbiont needs. much like nems.

or you can convince yourself that it is no coincidence that maxima clams and sps obtain 85-90% of their nutritional needs from their symbionts/light.

-discussion: i wonder if a nem can get away with mostly light. possibly not since they are mobile and probably have other needs. clams and sps largely stay put.

of course i am spitballing

 

[russ-iv]

http://jeb.biologists.org/content/214/16/2749.short">http://jeb.biologists.org/content/214/16/2749.short</a>

here is an interesting article that coincides why i lost birdsnests left and right until i started dosing phosphate and ditched my gfo.

obviously, if your tank has a surplus of nutrients you will not have these issues.

 

[fishlips]

To be honest, don't have a par meter. But ,Will look into barrowing one. But in the meantime,I think we are on target with not enough no3. Thanks guys.

 

[russ-iv]

Fishlips;1072497 wrote: To be honest, don't have a par meter. But ,Will look into barrowing one. But in the meantime,I think we are on target with not enough no3. Thanks guys.

i cannot stress the overabundance of caution unless you know for sure.

good luck

 

[bulkrate]

I'm in a similar situation to Russ-IV's - no SPS but I can practically see the moment that my tank has run itself into a low-nutrient-esque state. Macros start to shred & fragment, LPS/zoas seem to "clench" for lack of a better word and go pale. And the glass would stay clear of green dust for more than 2-3 days.

I had to stop running ANY phosphate binder whatsoever in order to correct it. Everything in there seems happier nowadays even though I have testable levels of nitrates present. Admittedly I handle my dosing needs by having a mandarin & feeding it twice daily.

No <u>real</u> science to back it up on my part, but I'd recommend potassium nitrate as the means to provide the necessary oomph to get you back into Redfield-ratio territory as K's starting to look like one of those trace elements that chronically run short in most tanks. By definition we already have plenty of sodium present.