Plans for DIY Cabinet
- Thread starter fishlips
- Start date
Stands are really easy to build. The hard part (atleast for me) is the shell. Im certain there are several members in our community that will give you some guidance.
Like Brett said it's not that hard, especially if you have the tools. You'll still need some 2x4's for the internal structure. They really help with attachment points. You won't need much though, just a basic frame to attach the shell to. There are ways to completely forgo any 2x lumber but there's a good bit more of fabrication required, again if you have the tools it makes the job much easier.
Where are you located? I'd be happy to show you what I built and how I'd go about building what you're looking for.
Where are you located? I'd be happy to show you what I built and how I'd go about building what you're looking for.
It really depends on what your looking for. If your going to use 3/4" plywood you don't need to build a frame as beefy as the plans found on RC & R2R. The plywood is more than strong enough to hold whatever you throw at it. If you laminate the plywood up high you can put in a large opening to give you easy access to the sump.
Are you putting in a framed glass tank, rimless or arcylic?
Are you putting in a framed glass tank, rimless or arcylic?
I have a standard 220 Marineland. All of the weight on those framed tanks is supported in the corners.
Your more than welcome to come by and see the one I built. Mine is an in wall setup and I got the design from Grouper Therapy. If you're doing a stand alone and want something furniture grade, plywood is the way to go. The whole upper portion of my stand is laminated plywood. I bet my stand could hold two more full tanks on top of it. Knowing what I do now it's way over built.
Your more than welcome to come by and see the one I built. Mine is an in wall setup and I got the design from Grouper Therapy. If you're doing a stand alone and want something furniture grade, plywood is the way to go. The whole upper portion of my stand is laminated plywood. I bet my stand could hold two more full tanks on top of it. Knowing what I do now it's way over built.
For the wrap you might consider looking for furniture grade and/or reclaimed wood on craigslist. You can find some really cool and unique options. I found very high quality cherry boards from a local carpenter for $60 total.
Some options in Greenville:
https://greenville.craigslist.org/mat/d/knotty-pine-boards/6504949998.html
https://greenville.craigslist.org/mat/d/salesale-sale-reclaimed-wood/6481819275.html
Some options in Greenville:
https://greenville.craigslist.org/mat/d/knotty-pine-boards/6504949998.html
https://greenville.craigslist.org/mat/d/salesale-sale-reclaimed-wood/6481819275.html
If you decide not to stop by here are a few more tips.
#1 increase the dimensions by a 1/2 to 3/4". The frame on tank is not 72x24, its larger. This will also allow you to attach trim around the whole stand which will hide the top of the plywood and even the whole tank frame. A little higher an you can cover some or all of the sand bed if you're not going bare bottom.
#2 When I say laminated plywood I mean two 3/4" ply's glued and screwed together. So on the inside, run a second 8 to 10" strip around the whole upper part of the stand. Then in the corners, on both inner sides, run a 3" wide kicker all the way to the bottom.
#3 Use Titebond III on all joints and seams. The screws initially hold it together but the glue is where the real strength comes from.
If built this way it will be more than strong enough to hold much more weight than you're going to put on it. You can also cut out a large opening on the front side, the back too if you wanted. The opening can be from kicker to kicker and up to the bottom of the upper strip. With two doors opened you'd have almost full access to the space under the tank.
Good luck on the build!
#1 increase the dimensions by a 1/2 to 3/4". The frame on tank is not 72x24, its larger. This will also allow you to attach trim around the whole stand which will hide the top of the plywood and even the whole tank frame. A little higher an you can cover some or all of the sand bed if you're not going bare bottom.
#2 When I say laminated plywood I mean two 3/4" ply's glued and screwed together. So on the inside, run a second 8 to 10" strip around the whole upper part of the stand. Then in the corners, on both inner sides, run a 3" wide kicker all the way to the bottom.
#3 Use Titebond III on all joints and seams. The screws initially hold it together but the glue is where the real strength comes from.
If built this way it will be more than strong enough to hold much more weight than you're going to put on it. You can also cut out a large opening on the front side, the back too if you wanted. The opening can be from kicker to kicker and up to the bottom of the upper strip. With two doors opened you'd have almost full access to the space under the tank.
Good luck on the build!
I don't believe Marineland normally warranties tanks not on their stands. I have read about people talking to them and providing plans or pics of diy stands and getting them approved. I would contact them 1st and verify.
With careful cutting, plenty of glue and (preferably) pocket screws. A 3/4" plywood stand is more than strong enough to hold up your tank.
I don't have written plans - but photos below show enough details I think. This stand is for a 40b - and I have an identically built stand for one of our 120's. The other 120 is on a purchased stand - my diy stand is stronger than the built stand.
I used a track saw setup to cut the plywood straight and accurate. It worked perfect and also allowed me to use my router to create trim pieces. The actual finishing is the hardest part - at least for me. Last photo shows the trim work I routed.
This is the track saw setup I used - https://www.truetracsaw.com/collections/complete-universal-saw-kits/products/the-truetrac-starter-kit
Link to pocket hole setup - https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/p169/kreg-jigreg-r3/
I don't have written plans - but photos below show enough details I think. This stand is for a 40b - and I have an identically built stand for one of our 120's. The other 120 is on a purchased stand - my diy stand is stronger than the built stand.
I used a track saw setup to cut the plywood straight and accurate. It worked perfect and also allowed me to use my router to create trim pieces. The actual finishing is the hardest part - at least for me. Last photo shows the trim work I routed.
This is the track saw setup I used - https://www.truetracsaw.com/collections/complete-universal-saw-kits/products/the-truetrac-starter-kit
Link to pocket hole setup - https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/p169/kreg-jigreg-r3/
