Plumbing question

[Froster92]

So we picked up the 180 gal today. I’m trying to mentally plan for plumbing. The tank has two overflows with 2 holes in each over flow. One is 1 1/2” and one is 1 3/4” from what I’m told. Got a bunch of questions though.

#1 how do I measure these holes to make sure those are correct numbers?
#2 when buying bulk heads does the size match the hole size or do I need a size smaller because it goes inside that hole?
#3 when plumbing these hole I assume the bulkhead has a fixed size of piping that fits inside the bulkhead, right?
#4 how do I determine to the correct gph that is draining from the tank so that I can select a return pump?
#5 I see a lot of people use a bean or her or overflow setup, that’s not possible with just 2 holes right?

Sorry if these questions seems basic or dumb, I’ve never done this before and don’t have any plumbing experience.


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[sharis100]

Reefdudes gives a good basic explanation of plumbing:

Here is another basic explanation of plumbing:

The Complete Guide to Hard Plumbing in a Reef Aquarium | ReefSump.com

A complete guide to hard plumbing your reef aquarium.

reefsump.com

If there are two holes in each overflow, it was probably set up as a durso on each side, with returns in each side. But you can change to herbie style, etc... a bean animal uses three holes and you would need to determine glass type and if you could drill. But there are lots of experienced reefers here on the ARC board that could help guide you. There are lots of ways to plumb- you could have many different setups that would work. You just need to figure out which one you want to use to approach the plumbing of this reef tank.

 

[hiimsean]

I used herbie drains on my pre-drilled tank and you can do the same. It can be dialed into being near silent and safe. I’d use one hole on each side as a return, one hole as the emergency and the other as the main drain.

 

[Froster92]

Reefdudes gives a good basic explanation of plumbing:

Here is another basic explanation of plumbing:

The Complete Guide to Hard Plumbing in a Reef Aquarium | ReefSump.com

A complete guide to hard plumbing your reef aquarium.

reefsump.com

If there are two holes in each overflow, it was probably set up as a durso on each side, with returns in each side. But you can change to herbie style, etc... a bean animal uses three holes and you would need to determine glass type and if you could drill. But there are lots of experienced reefers here on the ARC board that could help guide you. There are lots of ways to plumb- you could have many different setups that would work. You just need to figure out which one you want to use to approach the plumbing of this reef tank.

Thanks for the links I’ll look those over.


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[Froster92]

I used herbie drains on my pre-drilled tank and you can do the same. It can be dialed into being near silent and safe. I’d use one hole on each side as a return, one hole as the emergency and the other as the main drain.

If I do that where do the returns go?


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[sharis100]

If I do that where do the returns go?


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He is suggesting using one hole on each side to create a herbie drain I believe if I read it correctly. Then the other holes will be the returns on each side. You can also go up and over the side with your returns and reserve all holes for the drain system. Many different options and approaches with pros and cons for each choice.

 

[hiimsean]

With herbie drain, you only utilize two holes, one is the full siphon and the other is the emergency. That leaves the remaining two holes as returns. You could have the siphon and emergency in opposite overflows, not sure if this would be more difficult, or on the same.

 

[Froster92]

With herbie drain, you only utilize two holes, one is the full siphon and the other is the emergency. That leaves the remaining two holes as returns. You could have the siphon and emergency in opposite overflows, not sure if this would be more difficult, or on the same.

I may be confused, so are you saying only use one over flow box as a drain and the other overflow box as a return?

 

[sharis100]

I may be confused, so are you saying only use one over flow box as a drain and the other overflow box as a return?

https://gmacreef.com/herbie-dual-overflows/

 

[Froster92]

So i measured the holes and they are as described original. So for bulkheads do i buy ones that are labeled the same size or a size smaller since they have to fit in the hole?

 

[york1]

So i measured the holes and they are as described original. So for bulkheads do i buy ones that are labeled the same size or a size smaller since they have to fit in the hole?

How To Select and Properly Install Aquarium Bulkheads

Bulkheads allow you to transfer water from one side of an aquarium to the other and allow for traditional PVC plumbing to be connected. In most aquariums, bulkheads are used for drain and return pipes on your display tank but can be used for many other things too. Some tanks come pre-drilled for...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[ichthyoid]

A Herbie or Durso is possible ‘IF’ you run a supply from the pump up over the side of the aquarium.

That’s the only way to have safe redundant overflow pipes, imo. Because you will need both existing holes to be used for returns. A primary & a backup.

Before I used a 1 hole overflow as backup, I would test it to see if it can handle ALL of the return pump’s output.

 

[Froster92]

So next question I have, If I put in 3/4" bulkheads that equals around 660 gph per overflow, based on reading other threads, so how big of a return pump would I need?

I was thinking of using this one and dialing it down some, would this work?

 

[Froster92]

https://www.amazon.com/Jebao-DCP-8000-Sine-Water-Return/dp/B01MQQZC67/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[sharis100]

When calculating return size, don’t forget to account for your head pressure in your plumbing set up. There are reef head pressure calculators online. Height plus bends and 90 degrees etc are very important in the calculation. The head pressure combined with what gph you want will help you size your return pump. Also, your flow will be from powerheads rather than the return pump- unless closed loop system- so as long as you are moving system water a minimum amount of times, then you should be good. Minimum depends on your system reef type and bio load, but a good ballpark is at least 3-5 times.

 

[k3nnyp]

Durso is pretty simple to plumb. Check out Maggie Mufflers. I switched to them when I had durso on my 120. Just sits on top of the pvc stand pipe. If you cut the pvc a little long you can cut it down a little at a time until its quiet. If you cut it too short it's just pvc.

When I got my 220 I got one without corner boxes since it was going in a wall and run a Synergy Reef shadow overflow.

Both did the job for me and if I were in your situation I'd just grab some pvc pipe and two Maggie Mufflers for the overflow. You can also build the return line with pvc pipe a 90 elbow and a threaded end cap for some locline.

Agree with verifying your flow rate. You don't want your rate to exceed what a single drain is capable of. You can test it by leaving one of your pipes long enough to stay out of the water and run your pumps to make sure your water level doesn't rise.



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[Froster92]

When calculating return size, don’t forget to account for your head pressure in your plumbing set up. There are reef head pressure calculators online. Height plus bends and 90 degrees etc are very important in the calculation. The head pressure combined with what gph you want will help you size your return pump. Also, your flow will be from powerheads rather than the return pump- unless closed loop system- so as long as you are moving system water a minimum amount of times, then you should be good. Minimum depends on your system reef type and bio load, but a good ballpark is at least 3-5 times.

So Im planning on building a 36" stand, so Im thinking 5 ft from the sump to the tank. So the pump im looking at is 2100 gph. Would this be enough to account for head pressure? I also plan to install a gate valve to dial it in and the pump is controllable so I could turn it down if need be.

 

[sharis100]

So Im planning on building a 36" stand, so Im thinking 5 ft from the sump to the tank. So the pump im looking at is 2100 gph. Would this be enough to account for head pressure? I also plan to install a gate valve to dial it in and the pump is controllable so I could turn it down if need be.

Again you need to use a head pressure calculator to do your guesstimate work. It is not only the height from pump to return but also the pathway - ie twists and turns, what you are feeding with the pump- ie manifolds or other the things, diameter and schedule of the piping.
All these things affect the head pressure and should be accounted for when determining your pump size.
I always like to use a controllable pump oversized in power that can be dialed back in case I add things later- ie frag system, etc....
The calculation is supposed to be an estimate not exact. So, when you are looking at a pump to purchase, make sure to look at the gph chart versus head pressure to make sure you have properly sized your pump. BRS has many charts for pumps they sell, manufacturers also post these online. If you buy a pump that is rated for 10’ feet of head pressure but it bottoms out to zero at 10’ feet and you have that 10’ feet of head pressure, that pump would not work for your system. On average with an average reef tank a pump with 1000 gph will only give 500 gph due to head pressure- for every 1’ foot vertical that = 1’ foot head pressure, every 90 angle=1’ foot head pressure, 10’ feet horizontal = 1 foot head pressure, etc....
Again, check out the online calculators available and articles available. There are so many different choices, and solutions- that is what makes the hobby fun. There is no one right way to do things. There are many paths that lead to successful reef keeping.

 

[Steve Burton]

Head pressure reduces gph by a lot, I would bet you a 2100 gph pump will not even be close to what you need on a 180 with 5 feet of head. I would second Shari's advice.

 

[Steve Burton]

I have a 180 also and I use a Jebao DCP18000, $170 on Amazon. It is DC, controllable, and powerful enough to run another couple items off of my manifold.