Pumps.

bruce 1

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Looking into building a new tank 240 gal. I am buying up Equipment right now.

So I am at the pump part.


What do I need? I will run my chiller of of it, (my chiller will be under the house about 30 feet away from the tank) and a few reactors.


so would these work? Reeflo Dart?

I have been offered 1 new one and one used one for $370.00 shipped to me. Is that a good deal? (I could keep the used one for a spare)
 
The Dart is a good pump, but you'll need to use a head loss calculator and estimate the plumbing arrangement to see what it will do in your use.
 
Im running a reeflo marlin prob on my 250 but thats just because of the head pressure from going up a floor and other reactors, chillers, etc. Like barry noted, it all depends on your head pressure but the dart is a good pump although might not fit your needs.
 
The BIG factor is, how far below the tank will your sump be? If it's in the stand, the Dart will give you all you need and more (you'll end up throttling it back).

If it's one story down (like a basement fish room) it won't work... you'll need a pressure rated pump.

The Dart is a great closed-loop pump if you are going to do CL rather than powerheads in the tank, but I assume you are talking about a return pump.
 
. The chiller will be in the crawl space under the house. (I am wanting to keep the heat from the chiller out of the house.) ( everything else will be in the sump area.) THe chiller will be no more than 6 feet below the sump/ or below the tank

The sump will be under the tank. And the pump will be at the sump.
 
you might want to look for something "one size larger" than the dart..

I've got a snapper now (LOVE IT) but I really wish that I had an extra 500gph..


to be fair.. my tank is only a 90.. but I run EVERYTHING (including a dual beckett skimmer) off of ONE pump..

with these reeflo pumps.. go find a deal on a larger pump... as barry said earlier, you can throttle it back (and it will actually use less energy than it does fully open)...

you can't go wrong with Reeflo..





side note: unless your conditions in your crawl space are different than EVERY house I've ever lived in.. I wouldn't recommend putting a chiller down there..
- too damp, tough to get access to, no way to monitor possibility of leaks, not very well ventilated.. etc,..
 
It just depends on the plumbing. Keep in mind that on a 240, you'll want somewhere in the neighborhood of 2000-2400 gph for a return. With 3600, a Dart is plenty unless head kills you.

As for the chiller, correct me if I'm wrong but since it is a loop (down then up) you are not fighting gravity, only pipe resistance (because for every pound of water coming back up to the sump, there is a pound of water pushing down to offset it).
 
the coil in a chiller adds approximately 3'-4' of head pressure...
(partially because it's such a small diameter, the main reason is all the turns, of course)
 
Rbredding;648904 wrote: the coil in a chiller adds approximately 3'-4' of head pressure...
(partially because it's such a small diameter, the main reason is all the turns, of course)
Water actually flows around the coil - not through it.
My chiller is using a 4" pipe where the coil is inside of...

Robb
 
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