QT set up

[Drknudsenx2]

Hey guys, my DT is still cycling, but I was hoping to get a QT up and running and get some clownfish in there. What I have right now:

20 gallon tank
Salt water (will match salinity of LFS)
Couple of PVC elbows for cover
Air stone and air pump

What else do I need? It would be uncycled at this point, what are your thoughts of buying either live rock or already cycled bio media from LFS to account for bio load? I am aware that the live rock or other would not be useful after the quarantine.

I am curious your thoughts, my wife and son are anxious to get some fish in the house, and I don’t want to put them straight into my DT just in case they are carrying anything.

Thank you!
Dane

 

[ZapataInc]

For the QT you could also look at getting a hang on the back filter and throw some matrix in there and some type of bacteria in a bottle. Also maybe get an ammonia badge to have a constant thing you can look at to see where you ammonia level is at. You could do the live rock but most people skip that and go with the bacteria in a bottle.

 

[bzb]

+1 to the HOB with matrix or other media.

Personally, I wouldn't even bother with an ammonia badge. They're difficult to read and by the time you have an issue, your fish would be dead. Just dose with Prime and bacteria-in-a-bottle and your fish are golden. No need to wait on a cycle for the clowns.

Definitely would not recommend live rock in a QT situation.

Would set the salinity at 1.025 or whatever you want your DT to be. No need to match LFS. If you're running Copper Power or Chloroquine Phosphate, just acclimate them in the bag and dump it all in. If you're just going to observe, then acclimate in the bag and net them out of the bag into the tank.

 

[Drknudsenx2]

Thanks y’all, I will go that route and get a HOB and matrix, and I had already picked up an ammonia badge so I’ll try it and see.

As far as acclimating my fish, LFS keeps them at 1.015, and my DT is 1.025. Still set the QT at 1.025? Does that not bother the fish? Thanks!

 

[popsbjd]

Drip acclimate them into the qt.

 

[NanCrab]

Thanks y’all, I will go that route and get a HOB and matrix, and I had already picked up an ammonia badge so I’ll try it and see.

As far as acclimating my fish, LFS keeps them at 1.015, and my DT is 1.025. Still set the QT at 1.025? Does that not bother the fish? Thanks!

I have ammonia badges on my DT and both QT tanks (I have one for fish only and one for corals and inverts) and I find them to be quite accurate. I would never trust it in and of itself but it is a good quick look thing. Im currently cycling my DT and have been adding ammonia. The badge has been a match to the levels I’m getting with test kits. Hope this helps
You need to drop acclimate the fish to your salinity level just like someone else said. 1.025 is good but you don’t want to shock the fish with the sudden change.

 

[bzb]

That’s super low, I guess to ward off ich. Here’s what I’d do:

Set QT salinity to 1.018-1.020. Acclimate the fish using drip or scoop ~1/8 cup of water into the bag every 5 minutes or so.

Leave the top off the tank and let it evaporate down to 1.025. Could take a week or more, monitor the salinity every day. Then fill the tank back up with 1.025 water. Don’t forget to dose Prime, as ammonia concentration will increase with evaporation (although it’s likely miniscule with two clowns). Easiest water change you’ll ever do.

 

[raz0945]

Ask the LSF that you plan to buy your fish at what their salinity is, the last fish I bought was at 1.020. Then check it anyway when you get home with your fish. I have also bought 2 fish and some snails, all three had different salinities.