Question? overflow box Return line and bulkhead

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reefstinger

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OK, hooking up pump tomorrow eve on my new setup, so here goes the week long leak test with tap. I know that the drain side in the over flow boxes(DT) should not be glued in. Now, what about the return line tube that fits into the bulkhead? do i need to securely push it into the bulkhead and NOT glue it? it's a 1" line tube has two slip nozzles into the DT. Dual returns/dual corner boxes. What I'm getting at is my barracuda impeller will push 1800 gph, but with the sump/refugium room in the basement with pump, and other accessories I should be getting around 1200 gph, that's around 10 ft head pressure upstairs to DT. So if I do not bglue them in , when i fire the pump up with all valves wide open, will it blow out my 1" return tubes? and shoot water out the top of my DT? never fired a new setup before from this huge project? HELP please need info from past experiences. :huh:
 
On my 180 build I used threaded bulkheads that way I wouldn't have to worry about changing bulkheads if I screwed up plumbing somewhere. I glued all pipes and fitting except for the drains in the overflows. To make it simple if it could leak it will.

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No you do not have to glue them at the bulkhead. On start up just throttle the pump back some. Once the overflow box is full of water the return would not stream water out of the tank even if the return line detached from the bulkhead in the overflow box.
 
grouper therapy;770784 wrote: No you do not have to glue them at the bulkhead. On start up just throttle the pump back some. Once the overflow box is full of water the return would not stream water out of the tank even if the return line detached from the bulkhead in the overflow box.
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THANKS GROUPER. I added water to all tanks yesterday and the Sump Return end has a 2" bulkhead leaking. had some water on the basement floor this morning, gotta fix that first thing this eve when i get home from work. DT and refugium tank so far I see no leaks at this time, I will cross my fingers when I fire up the Reeflo pump. I think I will prime the pump first before i start. Again thanks:yes: , been a long road so far doing it all yourself, I know have more respect for the Plumbers and carpenters and electricians out there, Im dang wore out . Project started on March 9th this year. Finally getting somewhere. once I get the week long leak test done, its time to drain the tap and add some REAL saltwater , sand , LR.
 
when you test with tap water don't set the controls for tap water as the salt water is thicker and slower. I found out the hardway. I tested my system with tap and set the ATO up. after making the switch the water level was too low. it was just a newbe error for me.
 
OK , i just started my new setup , I have a hammerhead pump in the basement , only leak in the system i see is getting a little worse, it is coming out of the pump discharge side at the pvc outlet threads. 1-1/2" threaded to 1-1/2" pvc slip. I added pipe thread to it when installed and it still leaks. I hate these dang pvc threaded fittings , they always seem to leak. How can I stop the leak.?????????? anyone?
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Hopefully you put unions and valves right before the inlet and right after the outlet. That way you can pull the pump out and fix the leak. If you didn't put valves and unions, Then have the shop vac near....

If valved: simply pull the pump off and redo the Teflon sealant. I prefer Teflon tape, some folks use the goo.

If no valves: drain it and replumb with valves and unions.
 
Use teflon tape. One wrap should be fine. Make sure the threads aren't damaged.

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Leak Free, and Ripped I did use the valve unions correctly!! John come on over and take a look. 3 days shy of a 3 month project. WOW! Thanks to you all for your help!! :yay::yay::yay::yay::yay: I will run this tap water for 4 days and then add sand,salt and Rock. anybody got any bulk sand for sale!! not live , I will use mine from the 110 gallon to seed the new tank sand.
 
the overflow boxes are kind of going up and down but only a little bit, ??do i need to adjust the tubes? air still in line it seems
 
remember, you cant make adjustments on tap water, they will change when you change the water to saltwater. how far down is the drain in the sump should be only 1" under surface. post pics of the plumbing
 
eagle9252;771276 wrote: remember, you cant make adjustments on tap water, they will change when you change the water to saltwater. how far down is the drain in the sump should be only 1" under surface. post pics of the plumbing
Click to expand...
Eagle , I will post pics as soon as my camera battery is charged.
1. Drain is in both overflows DT, singles= 1" bulkhead straight to 1-1/4 to 2" adapted asap under dt.
drain drops straight down thru floor under display into 2" line down back wall into 2" header splits into two lines in to sump adapted to 1" pvc unions in socks. 1" pvc in sock is 5 inches under the surface on both dual drains into socks. Also have a 1-1/2 " return line run to DT and refugium (fuge in sump room. REfugium is running at the moment with 1" pvc valve 1/4" turned , sump is 90 gallon reef tank, both overflow pipes as drains in end of sump. PICS will follow. I throttled the valve above the return pump , slowing flow to DT to see if this will stop the surging up and down in the overflows. seems like air sucks in , and refills drain tubes . Not bad but it makes the gurgle /bubbling sound every few seconds. Send email and i will send pics within next hour:confused2:
 
Ok Eagle , I cut the drain tubes in the sump to 1" below sump water level, seems to have helped some? now when i completely removed the piece below at the 1" union on one side of drain into the sump , come upstairs , it was smooth in the overflow boxes. I think i need to cut the drains another 3/4 in

Edit: do i need to drill the holes in the top vents on overflow tubes a lil bit bigger, they are awfully small vent holes?
 
looks like the only way to make the boxes smooth is to have the sump drains above the water level??? in the sump and noisy??? any suggestions???
 
maybe a 3rd drain line into the sump? seems like the drains at the sump fixs the over flow issue. but drain in sump is a lil louder now, even going into a sock.
 
this is how I did my HOB OF on my 75. I actually ran it set back to expose about a ¼” crack at the BH. I never drilled the elbow. I used ¼ tube to vent my drain.

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