questions on carbon ??

jetchris

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I have a 90g with 20g sump and fuge. I want to run carbon but am unsure about how much to use. As for right now I have about 1 full cup's worth in a piece of panty hose that is sitting in the sump. I am not sure if I am using the correct amount. Also I have heard to change out the carbon every 3 months. Please tell me how you feel about running carbon and how much i should use etc.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Id change it out every month... you can use more if you want but creating a more efficent way of running thru it would be better than adding more.

(ie, I use a phosban reactor)
 
Every month seems to be the ideal time... of course, I leave mine in and change it only when I feel like I need to.
 
Yeah I change mine once a month or whenever I remeber to :) I have it running in an RO canister set up like the DIY kalk reactor with a small powerhead feeding the water.
 
What i do is this. Never ever change out your carbon until you change your sump, because old carbon contains many denitrifying bacteria that lives deep inside the pores of the carbon, and serve to brake down nitrates to some extent. You can simply dump the old carbon out on the bottom of your sump, and clean it out when you do your anual sump cleaning. Just add new carbon as often as you think it needs, but leave the old ones as subtrate for your sump.
 
ouling , so i should dump the old carbon into the sump? Wouldnt it release nitrates eventually??
 
ouling;49191 wrote: What i do is this. Never ever change out your carbon until you change your sump, because old carbon contains many denitrifying bacteria that lives deep inside the pores of the carbon, and serve to brake down nitrates to some extent. You can simply dump the old carbon out on the bottom of your sump, and clean it out when you do your anual sump cleaning. Just add new carbon as often as you think it needs, but leave the old ones as subtrate for your sump.

Is it just me? I have read that the Carbon will eventually leak out everything that it took out but it will leak it out fast causing a huge ammonia spike?
 
Carbon and GFO both will hit a "wall" on absorbtion and afterwards if you put them into pristine water some leakage will occur. How much, not sure but ammonia will leak out as the trapped waste particles will eventually break down into ammonia. Is it worth the ammonia leak for the good bacteria in the carbon, I would say probably not since there really isn't enough bacteria to make a real dent and likely not enough "crap" in the carbon/GFO to cause ammonia to rise at least on a test.
 
chrisjet;49163 wrote: I have a 90g with 20g sump and fuge. I want to run carbon but am unsure about how much to use. As for right now I have about 1 full cup's worth in a piece of panty hose that is sitting in the sump. I am not sure if I am using the correct amount. Also I have heard to change out the carbon every 3 months. Please tell me how you feel about running carbon and how much i should use etc.

Thanks,
Chris

There's a lot of conflicting information out there on granulated activated carbon (GAC). One thing that a lot of people do agree on though is amount to use, which is generally accepted as 1 tbs per gallon. Keep in mind that not all GAC are created equal, since there are many variables in the manufacturing process including original source, method of activation, and acid washing. Generally speaking, granular bitumous that is steam activated and acid washed is the best. Why do we care to use better GAC? All GAC adds phosphates, some silicates, and some sulfar to your system. The better stuff adds less of the bad stuff. Its a lil crazy that we use GAC since we really don't want to be adding those compounds to our system! Clearly its because the benefits in using it outweigh those negatives. :)

There are different methods for running GAC, some of which are more effective than others. Obviously, actively running it in a reactor or through a canister filter will be more effective than running it passively in a bag as you do. However, I run my GAC in a bag as well and although its not as efficient, it still gets the job done albeit at a slower rate. The slower rate also means that it won't become saturated as quickly, which for me is just fine.

So that leads us to the final question of how long to leave it in there. There is evidence that GACs will leech some of their absorbed compounds back into the water over time. Some other people claim any leeching is minimal. I dunno what the answer is, so I'm more conservative and replace mine as soon as its no longer effective. How long is it effective? This will vary depending on your bioload and many other factors, including whether you run it actively or passively. Fortunately, you can test this yourself with some methyl blue. If it absorbs the MB then its still effective :p. When I tested this it seemed to be very effective up to 4 days. It was still effective after 1 week, but after 3 weeks the GAC only slightly made a difference. As such, I've been changing my GAC out every 3 weeks. Keep in mind that I run my GAC passively, and of course its effectiveness varies from tank to tank, as each tank is more of a sesspool than others.

As for using GAC as a biological filter, there are many more effective ways of biological filtration out there that don't have any potential negatives that piles of saturated GAC might have. I am a firm believer though that you can increase your biological filtration such that your nitrates are never an issue. That however is a whole nother topic of contention :p.

G'luck.
 
Cameron;49214 wrote: Carbon and GFO both will hit a "wall" on absorbtion and afterwards if you put them into pristine water some leakage will occur. How much, not sure but ammonia will leak out as the trapped waste particles will eventually break down into ammonia. Is it worth the ammonia leak for the good bacteria in the carbon, I would say probably not since there really isn't enough bacteria to make a real dent and likely not enough "crap" in the carbon/GFO to cause ammonia to rise at least on a test.


Im with Cameron and Future on this one. The proper term is aDsorption, and once the carbon has reached saturation, it can leach some of if adsorbed material back into the water.

Furthermore, if anyone is really on a bag of carbon for the biologicla filtration, there is much bigger issues to deal with. Nitrifying bacteria live on EVERYTHING in the aquarium, and if you even have a small amount of live rock, you will have massively surmounted what might be grown on a bag of carbon.

I change it verey month or less (because I'm anal).
 
I change mine once a month here. This is also the method the LFS uses when they service customer's tanks. They must know something....
 
1 tbs per gallon and change out once a month. Sounds good to me thanks for your knowledge!
 
Nice post, FutureInterest. I tried to give rep points, but I got the message saying I must "spread some reputation around" first. LOL!

Anyways, I also use approx 1 tbs per gallon and change it out every month. The carbon is placed in a bag, then the bag is wrapped in polyfill batting (cheap filter material substitute), and the wrapped bag is then wedged into the bottom opening of a bulkhead (so water is forced through the bag.) The batting is used to keep debris from accumulating in the GAC, and it's replaced every week.
 
Wow, that is a GREAT idea to put it in the bulkhead. But what if it clogs the bulkhead? Swimming pool in the house. Thats a good Idea!
 
Vettesarebest;49330 wrote: Wow, that is a GREAT idea to put it in the bulkhead. But what if it clogs the bulkhead? Swimming pool in the house. Thats a good Idea!

It shouldn't be able to clog the bulkhead unless you wedge it in there <u>very</u> tightly. I play with it until it's just snug- that usually results in about a 1/2" difference in the height of the water on each side of the bulkhead.
 
wbholwell;49325 wrote: Anyways, I also use approx 1 tbs per gallon and change it out every month. The carbon is placed in a bag, then the bag is wrapped in polyfill batting (cheap filter material substitute), and the wrapped bag is then wedged into the bottom opening of a bulkhead (so water is forced through the bag.) The batting is used to keep debris from accumulating in the GAC, and it's replaced every week.
I took my canister filter, took out the prop and didn't plug it in. I run GFO (PhosPure) in chamber 1, carbon in chamber 2 and Purigen in chamber 3. I sometimes run some polyfil as a final step, but have found I really didn't need it. I use a pump to send water into the chiller then to the canister through a UV sterilizer and finally back into the sump.

To add to Futureinterests post here is one of my favorite carbon info links:

showthread.php
 
Cameron;49338 wrote: I took my canister filter, took out the prop and didn't plug it in. I run GFO (PhosPure) in chamber 1, carbon in chamber 2 and Purigen in chamber 3. I sometimes run some polyfil as a final step, but have found I really didn't need it. I use a pump to send water into the chiller then to the canister through a UV sterilizer and finally back into the sump.

I plan on eventually doing this myself, but my stand is so crammed-tight with everything as it is I have to figure out where I'll put the canister. I think I'll slightly elevate the pump off of the bottom of the sump to prevent debris from being sucked up and deposited in the canister. How often do you change out your GFO & Purigen?
 
Monthly the same time when I do the carbon. The GFO becomes pretty useless pretty quick, but since I use quality RO/DI all I am really trying to do is cut the amount of phosphates getting in from food and such. I reactive the Purigen at the same time. I use these as more of an extra buffer rather than a solution to a problem. If I ever had a serious phosphate problem or needed a bit more DOC removal I would step this time frame up considerably. If I do polyfil, I just throw it out rather than try to clean it.
 
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