So my rose bubble anemone got sucked into my overflow (again). This time about half of the anemone was stuck to the wall of the overflow, and there were two pieces in the sump (one about 30% and the other about 20%). All pieces seemed to have a bit of the base, so I put them all back into the tank. What do you guys think my chances are that all or any will survive?
RBTA trouble
- Thread starter wbholwell
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Keep a close eye on them, Bryan. For anemones E. Quadricolor are remarkably resiliant, but you may end up throwing out the two smaller pieces. If your water quality is good, you may have three anemones.
The question is why does your anemone keep getting sucked into the overflow. It is on the move for a reason. What size is this tank, what inhabitants, how much flow, what lighting, etc...
The question is why does your anemone keep getting sucked into the overflow. It is on the move for a reason. What size is this tank, what inhabitants, how much flow, what lighting, etc...
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If you're using ozone, the chances are considerably better that it'll survive.
Also place some Golden Pearls or some Cyclopeeze in the water. BTAs can absorb these foods even though they do not have a mouth.
Next, I'd place some eggcrate or some plastic mesh along the teeth of the overflows to prevent a reoccurance.
Please keep us updated.
Good luck,
Bob
Also place some Golden Pearls or some Cyclopeeze in the water. BTAs can absorb these foods even though they do not have a mouth.
Next, I'd place some eggcrate or some plastic mesh along the teeth of the overflows to prevent a reoccurance.
Please keep us updated.
Good luck,
Bob
Well, it moved from the right side of the tank to the left b/c of my recent battle with dinoflagellates. I kept the lights off for 5 days, and the RBTA didn't like it. Normally it doesn't move at all. During those 5 days, even my huge LTA moved, and he <u>never</u> moves. I should've moved it back to the right side when I noticed it was close to the overflow.
Lifestudent, I don't use ozone, but thanks for the other advice. I think I'll add some gutter-guard. Do you think roti-feast will be good for him/them?
Lifestudent, I don't use ozone, but thanks for the other advice. I think I'll add some gutter-guard. Do you think roti-feast will be good for him/them?
Feeding may keep him from moving in the future, it may not. The BTA may also lose out on a chemical war between itself and the LTA. Guys like Bob Fenner and Anthony Calfo don't recommend more than one type of anemone species per tank. You can read what they have to say over on wetwebmedia if you like.
The dino thing sucks. I think I remember reading about it.
The dino thing sucks. I think I remember reading about it.
I thought that as well, until I read Calfo's posts about it. So I looked into some periodicals on allelopathy. The Condi anemone can actually kill benthic algae that it doesn't like if it gets too close to it by using chemicals. I don't remember the exact numbers but it was able to kill off algae several feet from its base!
And that's on an actual reef! I guess what we don't think about is the fact that no one knows how old anemones can get. I've seen Dr. shimek suggest hundreds of years, and I've found that's a generally accepted estimate, but some folks say they could potentially live for much longer than that, so we can't measure success by the year or two we've kept ours. It may take two or three years for one of the two anemones to sucumb to the other in your tank (because of water changes, carbon, other filter media, etc.)...Most of the stuff I found was on non-hosting anemones, but the combined experience of the staff at WWM and the articles I found on the type of warfare that anemones engage in on the reef has made me a believer in the one species per tank philosophy!
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I've heard the same thing ^^ as well about different anemone species, from the same sources no doubt. I think though it was mostly speculation. Regardless, as long as you run carbon regularly the chemical warfare should be at detente for the most part. If the RBTA was healthy before it was split into three, each piece should survive. If it wasn't healthy... then you're bound to have some losses. I do find that my RBTA always heal faster if I do a water change right after a split and I throw in a bag of carbon for good measure.
Good luck w/ the dino's and the bta, regular water changes, good chemistry and the carbon should keep the water in good condition. You may want to throw in some purigen. Petsmart sells it in small bags that you just throw into the tank. Seachem says its rated for up to 100g tanks for about 6 months. I have 2 bags and the nice thing is that its cheap and you can recharge the bags in a simple chlorine/water mix every six months.
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Yah that's a lot of absorption you've got there . However, from the manufacturer's description purigen supposedly does not effectively reduce your trace elements. Usually, I don't give much credence to what it says on the box, but seachem is one of the few companies whose claims tend to be fairly trustworthy.
. However, from the manufacturer's description purigen supposedly does not effectively reduce your trace elements. Usually, I don't give much credence to what it says on the box, but seachem is one of the few companies whose claims tend to be fairly trustworthy.- Messages
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you can get the purigen from sam he sells it for like 5 dollars cheaper than petsmart and he always has other things you may need. glad your dino problem is under control i finally got my pars under control to see for your self
