Redundant

[joseayes]

So I have the option to get apex to control pretty much everything, and I'm debating the redundancy on the ATO... Got the breakout box and the Tunze too... Two things for the same porpoise, is it really necessary? I know Apex can go nuts once in an storm or who knows what bugs can drive it mad sometimes, but this is still an odd. People would rather use controller over another controller, seems to be and the comun sense side, heather and chiller controlled by Apex and might be a ranco controller (just to mention this brand) ph controlled by a secondary controller (reef fanatic?) plus the apex,
And the list can go on..
But is it really necessary or it's another waste? Or might be being in the "safe zone"?

 

[ringo®]

Choice is up to you. Redundancy in safety will rarely be a bad choice in life.

 

[hzheng33]

it only takes one accident to realize that "oops, i should've paid for the breakout box"

 

[enderg60]

My ATO has a normally closed solenoid valve on it thats turned on by my controller for 5 min every hour.

I have had my float valve stick open and flood the tank with fresh water before and a pump sucking air is way better then that.

 

[bkostuch]

I run a Tunze ATO and Apex seperately, the tunze has been very efficient for me, knock on wood.

 

[Adam]

On my build I got the Tunze before I bought the Apex. The Tunze has it's own back up build in. What I was thinking is what if the control board for the Tunze goes bad? Haven't seen any reports of it but if you've got an Apex and an available outlet on an EB why not throw another float higher up and plug the Tunze in. Program the Apex to shut the outlet down and alert you if that float trips.

I've got a brother in law and friend in IT. I've gotten advise from them with the network we have in my office. It seems there's a common phrase in IT. "Two is one and one is none". Never hurts to have redundancy...

 

[picoreefguy]

yea i agree if you already have the equipment to setup redundancy then theres no point not to. its a safety net that can save you thousands in damages

 

[torqued]

I am looking to use a solenoid and float valve along with the Apex for monitoring. I want to use a safety float switch to monitor both upper and lower levels....IE turn on the solenoid to allow RO/DI water to flow to the float valve...then I want an upper limit float valve set just above the normal level allowed by the float valve and turn off the solenoid if water gets too high.

Anyone set this up? I am particularly interested in the solenoid portion. Ive found some, but not many that include a power supply. Most appear to run off of 12 or 24v directly.

 

[Adam]

Hey Kurt, you can get the solenoids at autotopoff.com. If you're doing this for your topoff you should do a bunch of reading if you haven't. This is one place where I'd look at redundancy for my redundancy or go a different route. If something fails in the system or there's a fault in your Apex programming, like after a power outage, you've got your system hooked up to an endless supply of water.

 

[torqued]

Agree.....I def need some failsafes if i go that route.

 

[joseayes]

Thanks for the input guys. Safe is key in this hobby too.
Still wanted to mention another coming problem that Dany brought, overflowing leaks, this and near electrical conduits and outlets can be a big ouch.
Still, have my bet on apex again with their ALD thing, hopefully this is not necessary but don't want to go unnoticed and be proactive.
Hey Dave! Glad to see you back!

 

[ringo®]

Good to see you too, buddy!

 

[camellia]

Use a BOB (homemade is fine) with water detection alarm, text, email...
If you have one outlet in perfect location you could changed it to a 4 plug outlet pretty easy. This is what I did, it was needed for battery back up... I have run my Apex with my 75 & 29 off this one outlet with no problems.
BTW, Neptune does NOT recommend using a GFI outlet with the APEX.
Apex has a build in GFI, surge protector and an additional GFI will only cause you problems down the road when your power flickers every week.
Hope your doing well, glad to see you making headway

 

[joseayes]

Hey Deb! Hope you doing great as well!
Good point there and now that you mentioned the GFI part in the apex I'll have to get more knowledge on that since seems like a topic it wasn't talk before or I've passed without notice.
I'm still hoping just to get dedicated circuit for just the tank, I'll check recommendations.
I've know that your two systems tied together electrically still withing the limits of max amp drawing, but not really sure your power demands on those outlets goes fine without tripping the brake at all or never happens, I would love to know from you

 

[Adam]

Camellia;1084443 wrote:
BTW, Neptune does NOT recommend using a GFI outlet with the APEX.
Apex has a build in GFI, surge protector and an additional GFI will only cause you problems down the road when your power flickers every week.

Hi Deb, I hope you're doing well. I know life has had a few curve balls lately.

I'm not sure you've got that right. Did you get that info from Neptune?

This is what is in the Comprehensive Manual:
3. Apply power to your controller:
a. With an Apex Jr this will be done through the 120V AC power cord
b. With an Apex lite or base system:
i. Plug the Energy Bar power cord into a GFCI outlet (wall outlet or ‘mains&#8217.
ii. Now connect the aquabus cable from the EB8 to the controller.

I've also searched over on their forum and I don't see them recommending to NOT use a GFCI. I use a GFCI's on all outlets in my fish room and I will be installing quality surge suppressors too.

Edit: EB's also do not have surge suppressors in them. While they do look like older surge outlet boxes this is not the case.