Resealing a tank

cr500_af

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I am setting up a temporary home for a fish until my 210 is done... I'm basically at the stocking limit, so I'm treating this as a 2 month quarantine tank.

The tank is watertight, but the silicone is a little sketchy-looking... kind of dry and opaque. I'm going to reseal it tomorrow.

Other than the obvious trimming the old/applying the new, is there anything else I should know from those experienced? Cure time before water goes in, for example?

I may also try my hand at my first DIY overflow box, as the one that is in it is a really bad-looking DIY overflow box... we'll see how much time I have after building the stand and resealing the tank.
 
are tank the tank all the way apart andsrealing it or just the inside
 
Just doing the inside seams. It doesn't leak, it just looks pretty old.
 
take your time scrap all the glass get you some aceton and wipe it down reaseal it and let it sit for about a week and your good to go
 
A week? I may be able to pull that off. Really need to have it wet in about four days...
 
48 hours before putting water in the tank..


take your time.. I did mine in the summer so the silicone set up fast on me and a couple of my joints are ugly (that is, under the coralline)..
this time of year, you'll have plenty of time to work the joints..

I purchased one of those little rubber 4-N-1 tools and it was easier to use than taping the corners.. (but that was just me, you may want to tape them as well..
 
After you scrape out the old and clean the seams with alcohol, tape either side of the seams with masking tape. Run your bead of silicone, smooth it with your finger (wet your finger with water first), and when you've done that, pull off the tape. You'll have nice clean lines that way.

48 hours, leak test it and good luck :)

Jenn
 
I have had issue with only waiting 48 hrs I had the silicon turn yellow.
 
Bingo if using GE Type I or II but if you use RTV 100% it will cure much quicker. If you can not find any let me know.

casper75;622856 wrote: I have had issue with only waiting 48 hrs I had the silicon turn yellow.
 
casper75;622856 wrote: I have had issue with only waiting 48 hrs I had the silicon turn yellow.
oh..

I used black silicone, so couldn't tell anyway..
 
Black silicone takes much longer to cure!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would personally wait a couple days as an absolute minimum...better to wait 72-96 hours at 70- 75 degrees.
On second thought, cure the tank closer to your desired tank temp. Glass expands and contracts amazing amounts with temp. I bet you could see a 1/4" length gain in a 8 foot section by increasing temp 10 degrees or so. I think these recent catastrophic tank failures could easily be attributed to or weather. IMO!!!!
 
ONLY USE SILICONE I, NOT II!!!!! silicone II has anti-fungi agents and will kill anything in it
 
Glass Cages has a two week interval between when they make a tank and when you should put water in it.
 
spiderman097;622896 wrote: ONLY USE SILICONE I, NOT II!!!!! silicone II has anti-fungi agents and will kill anything in it

Out of curiosity, is that something that will be present long term or would carbon/time remove it?
 
spiderman097;622896 wrote: ONLY USE SILICONE I, NOT II!!!!! silicone II has anti-fungi agents and will kill anything in it

There are type 1's and type 2's both with and without antifungal agents, I am pretty sure.
 
Luckily it doesn't have to look good... this tank will forever be in the fish room in the basement. It may very well become my permanent quarantine tank.
 
spiderman097;622896 wrote: ONLY USE SILICONE I, NOT II!!!!! silicone II has anti-fungi agents and will kill anything in it

not all silicone II has bio-seal and besides that they have never proven that it leaches into the water. I have seen several thriving reefs on rc where they used silicone with bio-seal.
 
fraggel rock;622944 wrote: not all silicone II has bio-seal and besides that they have never proven that it leaches into the water. I have seen several thriving reefs on rc where they used silicone with bio-seal.
you're right.. it's worth the risk for $1 a tube cost difference...

cr500_af;622937 wrote: There are type 1's and type 2's both with and without antifungal agents, I am pretty sure.
GE has changed their product within the last year/18 months..

all type II has anti-mold agents now..

(type I does not)
 
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