I’m kind of stuck on what to do for my return plumbing. I have a manifold I built with 3 1/2 gate valves and one will have a 3/4” gate valve. On the one side I have a 4way. It will feed the manifold, allow for a return from a uv sterilizer, and then flow to the tank. The part I’m not so sure about is the return feed from the uv. Instead of a 4 way, I could do two Ts and plumb the return in that way. I plan on using tubing to connect the return pump to and from this manifold setup.
Return plumbing help
- Thread starter hiimsean
- Start date
thevalueman
New Member
if you are not UV'ing the entire return, I'd suggest UV'ing somewhere on the supply side...
What are your goals for the manifold and what are you trying to accomplish on the pump side of the ball valve?
For the UV. If you can't run a dedicated pump for it do you have an Apex? With a flow meter you could connect it to the manifold and see what changes to other valves on the manifold do to the flow to the UV. With more flow meters you would be able to dial in reactors better and see what one change does to everything else. Another good thing about flow meters is if you're not good at keeping a schedule for pump maintenance the charts will tell you when the pump has lost flow and you can adjust the output or clean it.
Knowing the flow rate for the UV is important. At higher rates its good for algae control & water clarity. Lower flow rates are for parasite & disease control. The manual for the UV will tell you which flow rate GPH is best for each based on the contact time in the unit.
For the UV. If you can't run a dedicated pump for it do you have an Apex? With a flow meter you could connect it to the manifold and see what changes to other valves on the manifold do to the flow to the UV. With more flow meters you would be able to dial in reactors better and see what one change does to everything else. Another good thing about flow meters is if you're not good at keeping a schedule for pump maintenance the charts will tell you when the pump has lost flow and you can adjust the output or clean it.
Knowing the flow rate for the UV is important. At higher rates its good for algae control & water clarity. Lower flow rates are for parasite & disease control. The manual for the UV will tell you which flow rate GPH is best for each based on the contact time in the unit.
I am not following that at all... lol
A UV feed & return? in the manifold?
The UV would feed from the manifold and the return would come out of the UV and go straight to the sump or display, not back to the manifold.
Gimme a sec to feebly draw something out in MS paint.
And I’ve read you shouldn’t plumb back to the sump
As you know, the reason to plumb the UV into the return is to treat all the water going back into the tank, this approach is best overall to treat 100% of the water. It's also necessary if the intent is sterilization, ie parasite removal, but not great for reef tanks long term since the UV is nuking everything in the water column both good and bad. When I did mine, I opted to keep the UV system separate by pulling water from the sump return section and returning directly to the tank separately, so that I could run the UV either as a clarifier or a sterilizer if necessary without going to the trouble of a manifold. In your case, I would echo @Adam 's recommendation of flow meters so that you know what level the UV is operating at with valve adjustments. I can tell you that when I used my UV as a sterilizer, the tank was too clean overall and I had trouble keeping some corals until I turned it off. To each their own, it's great that you are planning ahead either way.
My main goal is to eliminate algae from my display. I've always battled algae no mate what I've done with my tanks. I think the algae scrubber will be my main source of removal but the UV will help clear anything else up. I may end up holding off for a while and just have the plumbing ready if I decide to add a UV later on I guess if the ATS is more effective than I think it will be.
With an ATS I would not run it from a manifold but a dedicated pump only. This is from experience, I run one. You need enough flow that the water comes off the plastic canvas in an even sheet, no more. if the flow gets too low you'll have dead spots. Too much flow and it will grow slower and clumps will get pulled from the canvas. You can get away with the UV on a manifold, not an ATS. Let me know which model ATS you are looking at and I'll recommend a small pump to go with it.
Below is a rough sketch. The UV can run back to the return/pump chamber of the sump. It's not the end of the world especially for clarity and not sterilization. A UV may help a little with GHA but if your nutrients are favorable for it to grow, it will, UV or not.
In essence, drop the 4-way and the elbows. The only elbow(s) this will need is if needed to feed and drain the UV. With Tee's, always flow through them and never into them and you'll have better flow and efficiency from the pump. With plumbing try to use the KISS method and try not to over complicate things. Oh, and put unions in where ever it looks like it might be difficult to disassemble and remove.
Below is a rough sketch. The UV can run back to the return/pump chamber of the sump. It's not the end of the world especially for clarity and not sterilization. A UV may help a little with GHA but if your nutrients are favorable for it to grow, it will, UV or not.
In essence, drop the 4-way and the elbows. The only elbow(s) this will need is if needed to feed and drain the UV. With Tee's, always flow through them and never into them and you'll have better flow and efficiency from the pump. With plumbing try to use the KISS method and try not to over complicate things. Oh, and put unions in where ever it looks like it might be difficult to disassemble and remove.
Thanks for the advice. I have a coralvue ats, 20watt version.
www.coralvue.com
I do have a mightyjet dc pump I could prolly use for the ATS.
IceCap Algae Turf Scrubber (CLOSEOUT)
IceCap Algae Turf Scrubbers use algae as a natural water filter to remove nitrate, phosphate, and other pollutants from your aquarium water. For External Use Only! Installation requires feed pump & plumbing.
www.coralvue.com
I do have a mightyjet dc pump I could prolly use for the ATS.
I'd go with a Jebao DCP-2500 They're cheap, quiet and easy to replace down the road.Thanks for the advice. I have a coralvue ats, 20watt version.
IceCap Algae Turf Scrubber (CLOSEOUT)
IceCap Algae Turf Scrubbers use algae as a natural water filter to remove nitrate, phosphate, and other pollutants from your aquarium water. For External Use Only! Installation requires feed pump & plumbing.
I do have a mightyjet dc pump I could prolly use for the ATS.
After head loss and turned down a bit, it will have the flow that ATS will need and allow for tuneability from the driver.
FWIW I run a DIY ATS that is 218w at full power. 36 3w leds on each side. I keep it at 65-75% power. And I'm running it with a DCP-5000 (That is turned down) 22hrs a day right now, but the flow stays on 24/7.
When @Dmitri finishes his DIY build for his 1000 gallon tank it will have 324w of total power. 54 3w leds on each side. I rebuilt the lights for him.
When @Dmitri finishes his DIY build for his 1000 gallon tank it will have 324w of total power. 54 3w leds on each side. I rebuilt the lights for him.
