RO/DI units

grouper

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When you look for a Ro/DI unit, what should you look for? I have been reading and there area various stages you can buy.:thumbs:
 
Most all RODI can produce 0 TDS water. The only difference is how efficiently they can do it, and how much it is worth to you.

So you need to figure out how much water do you plan on using?
Find out your home water pressure?

Your TDS out of your tap is important also, but we can assume unless you on a well that your tap TDS is under 100 in Atlanta area.
 
I like my 5-stage; it was like $100 on Ebay-haven't had any problems yet, just changed filters, and getting readings of 0; you can catch them from time to time-it's "Water General" brand--I figured I'd give it a shot for $100 instead of $400+ for comparable units. Just MO
 
ericmcj31;152512 wrote: I like my 5-stage; it was like $100 on Ebay-haven't had any problems yet, just changed filters, and getting readings of 0; you can catch them from time to time-it's "Water General" brand--I figured I'd give it a shot for $100 instead of $400+ for comparable units. Just MO

I have the same unit from WG (Slightly modified). WG unit RODIs may by all you need, but are not comparable to any $400+ RODI. Not even close! Their not even comparable to a $170 RODI.

Some RODIs can save you lots of money & water, over others. While one may cost $240, it may save you $100 a year in prefilters and water... over a WG RODI, So it depend a lot on how much water you use as to which RODI may best suite your needs,
 
Wait... so I'm going to have high TDS because I'm on a Well??? The last time I had a tank and an RO/DI I was on city water??? Is there any special filter I need to buy???

I was planning on going with one of the Filterguys 150 gpd water-savers (or whatever they call it) then adding another RO unit to get that 1:0.5 ratio...

Sorry to threadjack
 
Roland Jacques;152525 wrote: I have the same unit from WG (Slightly modified). WG unit RODIs may by all you need, but are not comparable to any $400+ RODI. Not even close! Their not even comparable to a $170 RODI.

Some RODIs can save you lots of money & water, over others. While one may cost $240, it may save you $100 a year in prefilters and water... over a WG RODI, So it depend a lot on how much water you use as to which RODI may best suite your needs,

But can't you just get the cheep one then when you need new filters get the good filters? That's really the only difference isn't it???
 
Harleyguy;152526 wrote: Wait... so I'm going to have high TDS because I'm on a Well???
High TDS is relavant. Average USA TDS is around 250 ppm. Your well water can be anywhere... just guessing in North GA your well water will be well below 100 you just need to test it. </em>

The last time I had a tank and an RO/DI I was on city water??? Is there any special filter I need to buy???

Not really, just let The filterGuys know your on a Well. if you have high sediments you may want two sediment prefiters. Personaly I like the .02 micron absolute Zeta Zorb sediment per fiter. I put a regular 1 micron before it.</em>

I was planning on going with one of the Filterguys 150 gpd water-savers (or whatever they call it) then adding another RO unit to get that 1:0.5 ratio...

Sorry to threadjack

Good choice
 
I am not sure but I have heard some of the "internet" RODI units have odd-ball filter sizes and you can only get filters from them... Be careful.

JJ
 
I save all my waste water-so efficiency in that point doesn't matter to me, but as far as filters and stuff-I replaced them a couple weeks ago, and the ones I had were like over a year old-so I can't complain a whole lot; our water here is 120 TDS tapwater.
 
Harleyguy;152527 wrote: But can't you just get the cheep one then when you need new filters get the good filters? That's really the only difference isn't it???

Yes & no

If you had High TDS like 500 plus you would want to go in a different direction to save you money on DI. (higher rejection membrane and a DI life extender)
If you use a good bit of water (or...) you may want a Water Saver type to save you money.
Some Ebay & Coralife ... units use bad 90% rejection membranes. Also i think pressure guages are a must.


That said, I did buy 2 Water General RODI to make mine. The carbon block they came with are 3000-6000 filters i upgraded to 20,000. There sediment was 10 micron i upgraded to 1 micron (plus Zeta) their DI filter was two 6oz horizontal i mounted them vertical and added 2 more (later to change to bigger DI units.) They do have good GE Desal membranes 75gpd TFC types the that test good at 98% rejection. So ...
 
looks like by the time you modded your WG you could've bought a more-expensive one, no?
 
ericmcj31;152846 wrote: looks like by the time you modded your WG you could've bought a more-expensive one, no?
Exactly,my point.
For some who use a little water, the best filter for them may be the cheapest, or it can be the one that cost a little more. Thats why you to make a good disesion you need to concider your tap TDS, and how much water you plan on using, before picking the right RODI. picking the right RODI can save some people hunderds of dollars, mine Water Saver RODI saves me $150 a year but i use a lot of water.
 
grouper;152393 wrote: When you look for a Ro/DI unit, what should you look for? I have been reading and there area various stages you can buy.:thumbs:

Some things you'll want in a good RODI system configured for reefing use:

Standard-sized prefilters, membrane, and DI cartridge
Brand name, high-rejection membrane
Specifications provided for each stage
Pressure gauge after the prefilters/before the membrane
Thermometer
DI bypass
Full-size vertical DI stage
Refillable DI cartridge
Aluminum bracket
Quick connect fittings
Flush valve
Clear housings
High-quality instructions
Customer support after your purchase

Russ
 
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