Okay so I bought a timer from Lowes that I can set to come on (every 6, or 12 hours, or 1-7 days) for x hours. On the top it has a brass fitting on the bottom it has a plastic fitting. My logic is the brass fitting should be safe because it is not coming in contact with salt water, only fresh pre RODI filtered water. I derived this logic from the fact that our water is supplied by copper lines before it touches our RODI systems in the first place. Anybody that has any feedback please let me know if my logic is faulty, or correct. Upon feedback I will provide plans for a less than $50 completely automated RODI system timer that has both manual and automatic functions
RODI automation...need a devils advocate
- Thread starter rhyerob
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Why have a timer a plastic float valve is less than $50.
Are you just adding it for safety.
I just use a hose tee adapter on my bathroom toilet line. Ran the waste to the sink drain. The rodi goes to a 20 gallon brute with a float valve in it. It stays on all the time. But I do have a powerhead in my rodi container.
Lol my spare bathroom is my mixing station.
The cu lines feeding the RO/DI are not a problem because any cu that may leach into the water will be filterred out by the RO/DI. Once it leave the RO/DI I would try not to use any metalic fittings. Brass has cu in it's makeup. I am sure you would be fine but I wouldn't take the chance personally.
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I think he will be fine if I read this correctly
Thanks guys. Grouper read it correctly. The reason why I'm using a timer is because the float switches, from my experience, leave your wastewater running at all times. I'm a hippie of sorts, and believe this to be irresponsible
Edit: For crying out loud the wastewater gets sent to my pool
Edit: For crying out loud the wastewater gets sent to my pool
Mine shuts off both filtered water and waste water with one float switch tied to the filtered water. You need a pressure valve that shuts off the waste water when pressure builds in the filtered water line. Also need to have a check valve on filtered (i think) line before the pressure valve. Works great except when float switch fails. That happened to me once with a cheap float switch.
Edit: float valve, not float switch
Edit: float valve, not float switch
Here is how it should be plumbed with an auto shut off valve. You can get them for about $25 at BRS. Or you can get them at a local LFS.
BRS Kit - http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html">http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html</a>
Plumbing diagram
<fieldset class="gc-fieldset">
<legend> Attached files </legend> [IMG]http://atlantareefclub.org/boards/data/uploads/attachments/790913=39157-RO-DI Drawing.pdf" target="_blank" class="gc-files">RO-DI Drawing.pdf</a> <span class="gc-filesize">(386.7 KB)</span> </fieldset>
BRS Kit - http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html">http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html</a>
Plumbing diagram
<fieldset class="gc-fieldset">
<legend> Attached files </legend> [IMG]http://atlantareefclub.org/boards/data/uploads/attachments/790913=39157-RO-DI Drawing.pdf" target="_blank" class="gc-files">RO-DI Drawing.pdf</a> <span class="gc-filesize">(386.7 KB)</span> </fieldset>
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I think you are on the right track with your timer and valve. It is more dependable than the auto shutoff valve. You can also prevent short cycles with the timer/ valve option.
I started out with the stock auto shut off valve and noticed my DI resin quickly exhausting due to the short cycle tds drift from the RO membrane.
I started out with the stock auto shut off valve and noticed my DI resin quickly exhausting due to the short cycle tds drift from the RO membrane.
Grouper. Short cycles are what I was trying to prevent. I understand that not only does short cycles kill membranes, but they are less efficient allowing impurities through. I can keep up with a timer just enough to make it less work over the long run. Plus I have an ATO refilling my tank of the evaporated water anyways.
I use an irrigation valve and sprinkler valve timer to feed tap water to the RODI. I fill based on time intervals. For example, I have one program that runs for 50 minutes. That makes the amount I need for a WC on my 100 gallon (gallons at a time). I have another program that runs for 240 minutes that makes the amount I need(ed) for the 300 gallon system. I'll set up something for my 465 gallon in a while.
I do the same thing to fill my ATO reservoirs. The RODI output is connected to the two water change containers and the two ATO Reservoirs via 1/4" OD PEX tubing and JG valves. Close off the JG valves to all but where you want the water to go, and that is how you fill whichever reservoir you need filled.
I have a booster pump with auto pressure sensing switches in the feed line after the sprinkler valve.
There is a slight difference in production rate from summer to winter, as RO Membrane water production is temperature dependent, meaning the warmer the source water, the more RO the membrane will process and vice versa. But that is never more than a gallon or two. Been using sprinkler valves for RO production for years. Never have used a float valve shutoff.
I do the same thing to fill my ATO reservoirs. The RODI output is connected to the two water change containers and the two ATO Reservoirs via 1/4" OD PEX tubing and JG valves. Close off the JG valves to all but where you want the water to go, and that is how you fill whichever reservoir you need filled.
I have a booster pump with auto pressure sensing switches in the feed line after the sprinkler valve.
There is a slight difference in production rate from summer to winter, as RO Membrane water production is temperature dependent, meaning the warmer the source water, the more RO the membrane will process and vice versa. But that is never more than a gallon or two. Been using sprinkler valves for RO production for years. Never have used a float valve shutoff.
