RODI Chlorine and Chloramine

snowmansnow

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In pondering a tank reset I'm starting at the very base of everything, my water (specifically my water before any salt is even added).

I currently run a 5 stage RODI unit with 2 RO membranes from BRS. The setup consists of

In -->> Sediment filter
Carbon block
RO
RO
DI -->> Out

Everything goes through a TDS meter which reads 0 on the output.

The tank is a 80 shallow 4x2 (16" tall)
As some of you are aware I've had issues with this tank for the last 5 years. I'd get SPS going and they would look fantastic then all of a sudden RTN. I definitely feel like I have the chops to do what I want to do with a tank, but this one has baffled me. My old 120 that I had up was SOOOO much easier to keep than this one and grew SPS the size of my head.

SO my question is this.... does as a standard carbon block handle chlorine AND chloramines? The reason I ask is I see where BRS has a block for both.

Thanks for any input / expertise in this area.
 
I looked up a list of cities that use chloramine and my city wasn't on the list. I wonder if its accurate.
I suppose I need to do a mail in test once things get going again to just see what all is happening. I wish there was a more cost effective way of doing so, although it is cheaper than loosing a bunch of coral.
 
Your city, or county, water department is required by law to publish their annual water quality report.

Look up your water department web site & see if there’s a link to it? Here is Cherokee Co. there is.
 
Also, Georgia has low levels of chloramine, not that this means anything to a coral. It’s places like Florida & Texas that are know hot spots. You can google it too ;)
 
I looked up a list of cities that use chloramine and my city wasn't on the list. I wonder if its accurate.
I suppose I need to do a mail in test once things get going again to just see what all is happening. I wish there was a more cost effective way of doing so, although it is cheaper than loosing a bunch of coral.
BRS sell's chlorine test strips. You can go to Home Depot and get something that is basically the same. You want to test for Total & Free chlorine. You want both to be the same. If the free is lower chances lower than Total are its chloraminies, if Free is zero that's a absolute confirmation.
 
Your city, or county, water department is required by law to publish their annual water quality report.

Look up your water department web site & see if there’s a link to it? Here is Cherokee Co. there is.
thanks for this tip. I found the 2019 report and they do list chlorine as cl2 but not chloramine
 
Do they happen to list ammonia?
Chloramine is a product of mixing chlorine & ammonia. It’s a cheap, & controversial, method used by some water departments.
 
thanks for this tip. I found the 2019 report and they do list chlorine as cl2 but not chloramine

Cl2 is chlorine. While not out of the question, I find it unlikely that in the Rome area they would be using Chloramine due to the risk of lead from real old homes that may have used leaded solder in the plumbing.

This test will tell you real quick. If Total & Free are the same there's no Chloramine.

For my RODI I like to use 1 micron sediment, a 1 micron carbon followed by a 0.5 micron carbon. The sediment gets changed out every 2 to 3 months, the 1 micron carbon every 4-6 months and the 0.5 every 8-12 months. It depends on whether or not I'm making a lot of water. The average person could get away with the longer end of those times.

If you're water pressure is less than 60psi after the prefilters at the membrane then putting a booster pump in will really help the membrane be more efficient. I know BRS says 50psi but 80-90 at the membrane is the sweet spot. If I was absolutely certain the housings and gaskets could take more, I'd do 100psi, but I'm not that confident...
 
I don’t run RO. Here in Cherokee our water runs around 40 grains or less of hardness.

I would if I lived in Atlanta!

I use similar 10 inch filters to Adam, with 2 DI’s, & 3/4 inch fittings. So, I can make a ton of water in a hurry!
 
I don't even bother worrying about it and run filters for both types. I do the following:

In -> sediment -> carbon -> chloramine carbon -> RO -> DI -> DI -> out

I run it through a boost pump for maximum effectiveness.

I end up with 0 TDS water and no concern whether they use chlorine or chloramine.







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