RODI Filters

izib

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Ive seen this somewhere, but dont have the details. I repleaced all of the filters 3 months ago, water coming out is still good but Im thinking its time to start replacing the prefilters so that I dont destroy the others. Does anyone have any recomendation on changing these? Also, any idea what TDS reduction I should see out of each filter? Its a 3 stage filter plus DI (2 prefilters I guess, DI, and 65gpd RO).

Thanks,
 
Thanks Big D, now my question is... How much should each filter drop the TDS reading. My tap water is reading about 78tds going into the unit.
 
I recently got a TDS and it is a pretty neat toy. Very helpful to see what the TDS is coming in and going out of different components of the filter setup. I think (if I remember correct) that the raw source water is at about 50 +/- ppm. Coming out of the last stage it is around 0-1ppm. Leaving the DI it is 0ppm as it should be. :yay: :thumbs:

Depending on what rejection rate your filter is you can expect different TDS values coming out of the filter before your last stage, the DI. Typical high quality filters are around 98% rejection rate (so it removes approx 98% of the TDS coming in so your DI lasts longer because it only has to "mop up" or eliminate the 2% that sneeks past). Cheaper units use filters that only do around 90% rejection rate and then you end up burning thru and using up the DI resin faster because more impurities go thru.
 
Anywhere between 7 to 5 ppm TDS if you have a average filter. If you have a 98% rejection rate filter you may get it down as low as 1 - 2 ppm TDS.
Hope that helps.
:)
 
Hey Big D
Yes you are 100% correct that putting cold water thru the RODI will give you less pure water and thus more waste. However you might want to read up and see what kinds of problems you can get with running the filter from water coming out of your water heater. I know that there is lots of junk in water heaters and you might be killing the life span of the prefilters by doing this. Shoot an email to TheFilterGuys (Jim) they are super nice and ask him.
A different method would be to just use the cold water line and put a long long piece of the line coiled up laying in a bucket of tap water. Then drop an old heater in the bucket and get that bucket up to 75 or whatever you want. This way the tap water in the bucket gets plenty warm and should help raise the temperature of all the water moving thru the long line from the faucet going toward the filter. Seems like a safe way to me.
Caution I have heard of some people using copper lines to do this. I would avoid that of course although the metal would help with the heat transfer.
Ok... just thought that I would toss that out there. :)
 
OK, so I know to change the ro filter when the TDS goes up, but how often should I change the prefilter and carbon block?
 
Good question hng. Thats what Im trying to figure out. I want to make sure I replace the prefilter and carbon filter when needed so that I dont destroy my ro and di filters.
 
I am bringing my TDS meter to the Frag meeting next week if anyone wants to bring a water sample to be tested!:up:
 
The sediment filter should be changed when it is full of sediment. Ha! Sorry I couldnt resist. :) :) lol. This is best ascertained with a pressure gauge. You should know what the pressure is when the unit is when clean/new and then when it gets too high you know when to change it out with a new one. (ask Jim at TheFilterGuys.com he will know what pressure is the correct time to call it dead and that it needs a new one.)As far as the Carbon block... its job is to remove the Chlorine and or Chloramine from the water before it gets to the fragile DI. The Carbon block is good for only a finite amount of Chlorine and then it is exhausted and the Chlorine starts getting thru and then starts using up the DI filter pretty quick. (Again Im not sure what the life is on the Carbon Block... ask TheFilterGuys it is their job and they are good at it and nice as well). Sorry I could not give you some exact numbers. A lot depends on how frequently you use the filter and how dirty your source water is. :) :) :)
 
This may help (from our FAQ page):

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the tds (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. How do you measure TDS? Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!
 
Thanks BFS. You are a super great company as well that really puts out a great product with excellent customer support. Thank you for the clarification for the maint and replacement of the different filter components.
It is very interesting to hear that the quality can vary greatly between different filters. Cheap is not the best route often in this hobby. 20,000gallons vs only 2,000-6,000gallons! What a huge difference. It pays in the long run to get quality filters from a good company.
:)
 
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