RODI system

[gill]

I've been reading about RODI systems, and how some more expensive ones are needed for certain kinds of treated city water (for high phosphate).

I am on City of Atlanta water. Do I need to worry about which one, or just get a standard RODI?

 

[jennm]

RO/DI removes all kinds of TDS (total dissolved solids).

The membrane is going to be the most important factor in how good the unit is at removing stuff out of the water.

My suggestion is get one with a Dow Filmtec membrane.

Make sure your water pressure is adequate and if it isn't, get a booster pump.

Most problems that occur with RO or RO/DI stem from poor water pressure.

There really aren't many differences in how the units are made - housings, brackets, tubing. Some have more bells and whistles like pressure gauges or TDS meters, but the basic configuration is similar for most units.

The cartridges make the difference, and in particular, the membrane.

Keep your prefilters (sediment, carbon) clean, and you'll prolong the life of your membrane, and then your DI cartridge. The prefilters are cheap. Membrane and DI are more expensive, so the ounce of prevention is definitely worth the pound of cure.

Jenn

 

[gajeep94yj]

What sorts of problems occur from lower water pressures? Mine only asked 20PSI, but green on the hair is 40PSI

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[camellia]

Green on the hair?

 

[gajeep94yj]

Ha! Green on the DIAL, the pressure gauge. It is colored with where I ideally want the pressure to be

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[myreefclub0070]

you need the pressure to be anywhere from 55-65psi (ideal 65) for the membrane to work and work efficiently.

 

[gajeep94yj]

Meaning it won't produce the advertised amount of water? Or meaning it won't tightly purify the water?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[black reef]

If the pressure is too low, water won't get pushed throughout the filter + membrane. Won't get that pure water + taking too long to make water. Try to get a booster pump to help the pressure. I have 2 unit setup and u r welcome to stop by and take a look at them

 

[jennm]

Low water pressure will cause excessive waste water, for one. Normal ratio is between 3 and 4 gallons of brine (waste water), to 1 gallon of product (purified) water.


Let's say you have a 24 GPD system. When it's working at peak efficiency (65 PSI and 77 degrees Farenheit), it should produce 1 gallon of product water per hour - hence, 24 GPD (gallons per day.) So in 24 hours, you would have used 96-120 gallons of water. 24 gallons are purified, the other 72-96 gallons is waste water.

If your pressure is too low, it's going to take longer than that to purify the same amount of water. Say it takes 48 hours to make 24 gallons of product water. The unit is running that entire time, so it could waste 144-192 gallons of water. If the unit is running, it's producing waste water.

Temperature has a similar effect - in winter, when the source water is colder, most of us notice slower RO/DI production. You can't really control that, and NEVER put hot water through an RO/DI or you will ruin the membrane. Pressure can be controlled and it's important to the performance of the unit.

Jenn

 

[gajeep94yj]

Is there anyone getting that high of a psi with out a booster? S homes MAX psi is supposed to be 60psi. With the normal range being between 40-45 psi.

My house is 43 at the garden hose, I just tested it.

I have mine hooked up to a garage sink. The little bypass switch on the faucet. And I get 20 psi according to the gauge on the rodi. Would i get a higher psi by hooking up differently? How are must hooking them up?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[myreefclub0070]

if it's not bad, you can adjust the PRV (pressure reducing valve) valve on the main line to get you up to 65psi.
the PRV comes preset between 50-55 psi and only get lower if that valve is failing or failed.

 

[myreefclub0070]

no booster pump on mine after I adjusted my home pressure to 65psi from 50psi.

 

[gajeep94yj]

Really? I would never have that high in my house. Those little plastic pipes behind your fridge and under the sink won't last long. I'm not a plumber bit I've installed a few pressure value on the main for that exact reason.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[myreefclub0070]

gill, I hope the information is relevant to you, I see we have hijacked your thread, sorry.
seth, city pressure is anywhere from 110-120psi and the max you can go up on the PRV is 75psi, I do it all the time and mines been set to 65psi for the passed 3 years.
true the high you go on psi the shorter life span is on home plumbing but it's the same link on the chain thing cause a line can leak under 65 as well as 30psi.

 

[black reef]

I hook up my rodi in the balcony and the pressure is 90. Been running the 150gpd unit and love it with how fast the water drip compared to when not upgraded ( single membrane 75gpd ). Even bought an extra booster pump and still not need to use it.

 

[myreefclub0070]

BLACK REEF;1060764 wrote: I hook up my rodi in the balcony and the pressure is 90. Been running the 150gpd unit and love it with how fast the water drip compared to when not upgraded ( single membrane 75gpd ). Even bought an extra booster pump and still not need to use it.

I hope 90psi is the pressure before the PRV or with a booster pump, if not that's way to much for your home plumbing, get that checked to be safe, cost you a lot less than flood repairs.

 

[huskerreefatl]

Here is the one that I have and I like it. Plus it is on sale right now at BRS.

 

[black reef]

It is before they coming inside the house Marlon. They are where the balcony is where I water my plants. The inside pressure is like 65