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Ok so i got an RODI unit now. It originally came from Air, water, and ice. Everything cam unhooked on the ride home now im lost as to how to get it back together again. Its 250gpd. And there are 5 stages.
Rodi unit help ?
- Thread starter saltyvixen
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you're going to have to post some detailed pictures.
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oh boy. Also i think i got it hooked up right, but the water from the di section has a funky smell... the water before di smells fine
I need someone local that has a TDS meter
I need someone local that has a TDS meter
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I made a video but i cant get it uploaded from my phone lol
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Hi Salty,
If I were you I would replace those filters.
you'll need a 250gpd RODI filter, a sediment filter, a carbon block filter, and DI resin. the 5th filter is probably another sediment filter?
you'll also need a way to dictate how much water comes out as waste water... normally some sort of valve if you don't have it.
At any rate you can find most of what you need at a LFS or at http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com">www.buckeyefieldsupply.com</a>
to hook it all up you'll first go through the canister filters.. then through the RO .. and then out to your DI. There is probably 2 outs on the RO filter.. one is waste.. the other goes to the DI (final stage).
basically you just take the water into the first canister... then the other fitting will take it out and to the next.
B
If I were you I would replace those filters.
you'll need a 250gpd RODI filter, a sediment filter, a carbon block filter, and DI resin. the 5th filter is probably another sediment filter?
you'll also need a way to dictate how much water comes out as waste water... normally some sort of valve if you don't have it.
At any rate you can find most of what you need at a LFS or at http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com">www.buckeyefieldsupply.com</a>
to hook it all up you'll first go through the canister filters.. then through the RO .. and then out to your DI. There is probably 2 outs on the RO filter.. one is waste.. the other goes to the DI (final stage).
basically you just take the water into the first canister... then the other fitting will take it out and to the next.
B
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w13h2GR0vHo&feature=youtu.be">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w13h2GR0vHo&feature=youtu.be</a>
And it only smells after the dionization
<!-- gcu-updated ame -->http://youtu.be/w13h2GR0vHo<!-- gcu-updated /ame -->
And it only smells after the dionization
<!-- gcu-updated ame -->http://youtu.be/w13h2GR0vHo<!-- gcu-updated /ame -->
If the rodi were exposed to weather inclement and it was left there for short period time water inside foul and contains lots of bacteria thus shortening the life of any filter on the unit, preferred to replace the filters. If I were you I wouldn't risk my tank inhabitants with untested water. I have a handheld meter I can borrow or you can take a sample to your nearest store or member friend, multiple test from the same sample will make you feel better about replacing media or not.
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im just gonna reaplce it all lol
You can find filter packages on EBay containing most of them including the Di resin I haven't had issues with the quality, and for the membrane happens the same, I have bought twice from a guy down in CA and he has DuPont quality one same as BRS and you could get them cheaper from retail, just sharing my personal experience.
Search for awi sponsor, they have diagrams on how to plug their units, all of the units are about the same
Search for awi sponsor, they have diagrams on how to plug their units, all of the units are about the same
Or you can go to Air, Water and Ice's web site (they are a sponsor here) and order the cartridges as well as download the owner's manual to check the installation. Those guys are pretty helpful too should you have to call them.
Yes, I should have mentioned that too, I have had a great experience buying from air water and ice, excellent costumer service and they have excellent quality items
+1 what Jeff said. I just purchased the extreme typhoon III from them. Their customer service is very friendly and helpful. Mine RODI is ruuning with 60lbs of pressure and I got the 75gpd unit (averages really about 5 gallons od di water per hour), and my waste water is about 3x as much as my production (di) water. The black tube coming off that valve looks like the "fast flush" feature (and is also where you said you confused it), is there a valve on it?
Edit: On second glance it IS the fast flush. Which I see you have it the valve open. Close that valve and see if your DI is making more water after a few minutes.
Edit: After the black tube goes to the "fast flush valve" there is another valve after it I see but I can't tell where thats hooked in...
Edit: On second glance it IS the fast flush. Which I see you have it the valve open. Close that valve and see if your DI is making more water after a few minutes.
Edit: After the black tube goes to the "fast flush valve" there is another valve after it I see but I can't tell where thats hooked in...
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I'll make another video tomorrow im already in bed now.
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Hi Salty - couple of things for you:
That's not a 250 gpd system - there isn't a 250 gpd membrane that fits into the RO membrane housing you have. The largest capacity membrane that does is 150 gpd.
You have the system mis-plumbed.
First, it's important that you understand that your RO membrane housing has two "out" ports. One is waste water (or "flush water"), and one is RO water. Which is which?:
alt="" />.
Your black tube, with it's attached flow restrictor:
>http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd293/BuckeyeFS/cartflowreswflushvalve-1.jpg</a>
is coming out of your waste water port. The water that comes out of the flow restrictor should be routed to a drain. This is your waste water.
The water that comes out of the other RO membrane housing port is your RO water. This one should go:
1. to a check valve, then on to
2. one of the unmarked ports on the auto shut off valve, which is this thing:
>http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd293/BuckeyeFS/Accessories/f97a706e-2e4f-4405-be87-e1952eaa5963_zps7963a0b4.jpg</a>
3. The RO water will go straight through the ASOV and come out the other unmarked port
4. From there it should go to the "in" port on the DI filter.
Unfortunately your system has a sealed, horizontal DI filter. For the time being, just remove it from its clips and somehow mount it vertically with flow going in the bottom and out the top. You can use a 2.5 inch clip like this to mount it
>http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd293/BuckeyeFS/Housings%20and%20Brackets/housingclip.jpg</a>
I have more comments for you but don't want to dump too much one you at one time....
Russ
That's not a 250 gpd system - there isn't a 250 gpd membrane that fits into the RO membrane housing you have. The largest capacity membrane that does is 150 gpd.
You have the system mis-plumbed.
First, it's important that you understand that your RO membrane housing has two "out" ports. One is waste water (or "flush water"), and one is RO water. Which is which?:
Your black tube, with it's attached flow restrictor:
is coming out of your waste water port. The water that comes out of the flow restrictor should be routed to a drain. This is your waste water.
The water that comes out of the other RO membrane housing port is your RO water. This one should go:
1. to a check valve, then on to
2. one of the unmarked ports on the auto shut off valve, which is this thing:
3. The RO water will go straight through the ASOV and come out the other unmarked port
4. From there it should go to the "in" port on the DI filter.
Unfortunately your system has a sealed, horizontal DI filter. For the time being, just remove it from its clips and somehow mount it vertically with flow going in the bottom and out the top. You can use a 2.5 inch clip like this to mount it
I have more comments for you but don't want to dump too much one you at one time....
Russ
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You are exactly right! I have the waste line confused. I was wandering why the waste water had no smell... lol. So is the waste water supposed to run that fast? the pure water line is barely dripping while the waste line is nearly full blast.Buckeye Field Supply;898332 wrote: Hi Salty - couple of things for you:
That's not a 250 gpd system - there isn't a 250 gpd membrane that fits into the RO membrane housing you have. The largest capacity membrane that does is 150 gpd.
You have the system mis-plumbed.
First, it's important that you understand that your RO membrane housing has two "out" ports. One is waste water (or "flush water"), and one is RO water. Which is which?:
alt="" />.
Your black tube, with it's attached flow restrictor:
>http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd293/BuckeyeFS/cartflowreswflushvalve-1.jpg</a>
is coming out of your waste water port. The water that comes out of the flow restrictor should be routed to a drain. This is your waste water.
The water that comes out of the other RO membrane housing port is your RO water. This one should go:
1. to a check valve, then on to
2. one of the unmarked ports on the auto shut off valve, which is this thing:
>http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd293/BuckeyeFS/Accessories/f97a706e-2e4f-4405-be87-e1952eaa5963_zps7963a0b4.jpg</a>
3. The RO water will go straight through the ASOV and come out the other unmarked port
4. From there it should go to the "in" port on the DI filter.
Unfortunately your system has a sealed, horizontal DI filter. For the time being, just remove it from its clips and somehow mount it vertically with flow going in the bottom and out the top. You can use a 2.5 inch clip like this to mount it
>http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd293/BuckeyeFS/Housings%20and%20Brackets/housingclip.jpg</a>
I have more comments for you but don't want to dump too much one you at one time....
Russ
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The ratio of waste water to purified water is affected by a number of variables.
1. If you look at your flow restrictor, you'll see a 3 or 4 digit number - what is it? Flow restrictors should be matched to your membrane gpd, and your's may or may not be.
2. Is your black handled flush valve closed? You want it closed for normal operation. Figure out the position of the black handle when the valve is closed by comparing the waste water flow out of the waste water tube with the valve in the two positions. The flow with the valve open will be much greater.
3. Your 150 gpd (I assume this is what you have) membrane is spec'ed at 65 psi and 77F water. You'll want to install a pressure gauge add on kit so that you know what your pressure is. Without a pressure gauge you are really flying blind. Pressure lower than 65 psi, and water colder than 77F will increase the amount of waste water relative to the purified water.
Russ
1. If you look at your flow restrictor, you'll see a 3 or 4 digit number - what is it? Flow restrictors should be matched to your membrane gpd, and your's may or may not be.
2. Is your black handled flush valve closed? You want it closed for normal operation. Figure out the position of the black handle when the valve is closed by comparing the waste water flow out of the waste water tube with the valve in the two positions. The flow with the valve open will be much greater.
3. Your 150 gpd (I assume this is what you have) membrane is spec'ed at 65 psi and 77F water. You'll want to install a pressure gauge add on kit so that you know what your pressure is. Without a pressure gauge you are really flying blind. Pressure lower than 65 psi, and water colder than 77F will increase the amount of waste water relative to the purified water.
Russ
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I needed the dummy explanation lol with pictures
:smashfreakB:
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:thumbs:I also called air,water, and ice. I was told it a 150gpd compact reefkeeper. and can stand 100psi. She also told me where to f ind the diagram for that specific unit and everything is running great now. Filling up my first container 
