Salt Mix Issues...

[Jarad]

Ok, so for the last 3 weeks or so, after a water change, I've found my bubble tip to be on the move, and the corals have been slowly closing up as well (zoas and hammers). At first I just thought it was from the water change, but after three weeks now, there seemed to be some consistent hesitancy to open like they had previously. I figure by now it's not my weekly 10% water change, and so I tested the system.
Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate all at 0. Ph was good at 8.2, alk seemed good at 8.5, and salinity right on par at 1.025. Then came the Mg and Ca tests. 315 on the Calcium... and 990 on the Magnesium. I dont dose, and I dont have anything near the coral amount needed to chew through that amount of Ca/Mg that I know of, so seems I got a couple really bad scoops of my salt. Really frustrated, but I need to raise these levels, and was looking for some options.

Currently, I've done a 20% WC with a different salt mix (and tested it). This should roughly bring the levels to 337 and 1072 (ish), and I didn't want to shock the system moving either too much. Should I do a couple of water changes a week to bring the levels up, or dose in some Mg/Ca directly instead?

 

[bhodges82]

You can use epsom salt for mag. It might be a good idea to pick up some reef supplements just to have on hand for situations like this, even if you don’t dose.

Mind if I ask which salt you are using?


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[Jarad]

I was using IO salt, and literally was at the end of the bucket anyway wiht plans to switch to Live Aquaria salt. I just did the switch a little earlier than planned. To the additive comment, I've already got some in a cart, just waiting to see if that's a better idea than just a bunch of water changes instead.

 

[bhodges82]

I was using IO salt, and literally was at the end of the bucket anyway wiht plans to switch to Live Aquaria salt. I just did the switch a little earlier than planned. To the additive comment, I've already got some in a cart, just waiting to see if that's a better idea than just a bunch of water changes instead.

It’s always good to have things on hand in my experience. Water changes are a good way to make the changes gradually, salt isn’t cheap either, I recommend having supplies on hand to address certain parameters that are important rather than addressing them all because one is off.


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[Adam]

Having the big three on hand to make adjustments when needed is essential.

Have you tested the mixed IO salts' parameters before adding it to the tank?
Also having NO3 at zero is not good either. If it's really low, like near zero, and you do a water change you're lowering it even more.

 

[bhodges82]

Having the big three on hand to make adjustments when needed is essential.

Have you tested the mixed IO salts' parameters before adding it to the tank?
Also having NO3 at zero is not good either. If it's really low, like near zero, and you do a water change you're lowering it even more.

I was going to mention the no3, but I assumed that the test kit used might not have had a low nitrate scale like the salifert. A lot of people say “zero” but what they actually mean is that their test kit didn’t detect them.


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[Jarad]

Thank Anit. Yes, the levels were previously ok, prior to recent evens 1350 and 400, so I hadn't worried about it. I'll go ahead and get materials on hand. As for the nitrates, I blame the lower nitrates on a light feeding schedule as I battle some algae. I can increase that some, but I worry that's going to bloom even more. But happy to change that if you think it's worth it. The Nitrate was read using red sea's kit. There might have been some really faint pink, but it was pretty starkly clear. Prior to these issues and algae issues, I was in the 1-2 range fairly regularly.

 

[Adam]

In my experience, algae issues come from higher PO4. When the PO4 gets into the .07+ range is when I start getting GHA, more film algae and things like that.
NO3 is necessary for the corals. Some PO4 is needed too but that is where things get complicated. I've seen people with NO3 pretty high without many issues. When I say high I'm talking 50-100. I prefer to keep my system at around 5. Jin just found he was over dosing NO3 because of test kit error and his ICP test came back at 600, so his was probably over 200 for some time without issues. But when you add high PO4 to the mix is when things get bad quickly. Keeping it in line is more important than nitrate.

 

[Jarad]

Ok, I'll start feeding more, and maybe look into an additive of some sort to boost it into the lower single digits, and see what happens with that for a bit. 600... lol. I can see why his stuff was growing well then.

 

[Adam]

Ok, I'll start feeding more, and maybe look into an additive of some sort to boost it into the lower single digits, and see what happens with that for a bit. 600... lol. I can see why his stuff was growing well then.

Start with just the feeding for a while and see how that goes. As long as you keep the PO4 in check with whatever method you're using that may do it. If not then look to dosing
NO3.