Scratch removal

saltwaterwannabe

saltwaterwannabe

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I have started buffing out a few fine scratches in a glass tank using ceric oxide paste. I have found a scratch the paste does not seem to touch, unfortunately in the main front glass. I am about to order a couple of pads to buff it out with. I have not buffed acrulic or glass since polishing scratches out of fighter jet canopies and other devices in the Navy 25 years ago so I do not recognize online what pads are good for the purpose. Does anyone have suggestions, preferably attaching to an angle grinder, drill, dremel, or orbital sander?

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TCP Global 3" Mini Buffing and Polishing Pad Kit with 4 Pads, Backing Plate, and 1/4" Drill Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0021KZFCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Vu0ixbN98TX54">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0021KZFCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Vu0ixbN98TX54</a>


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I use it with my multi max right angle drill.


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The problem is cerium oxide is a super fine grit and is a final polish. It's not going to remove anything but the finest of scratches.

Search for "GP-WIZ" on Amazon. They have a couple of kits that are reasonably priced and their products do work but it takes time & patients.
They have a few videos on YouTube too, they're Irish so their English is a little had to get used to but they get the point across.

If you decide to go this route let me know and I'll give you some pointers. Just know if you're going to do any on the inside of the tank it's a pita to access with the buffer and it'll have to be drained and cleaned first.

HTH, Adam
 
I should know better than to make long posts from my phone. Sorry about the errors.
 
Thanks fpr the input. I ordered the gp wiz kit and will comment on how it goes

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You've got to keep the pad moving over a much larger area than needs repair or you'll get rippling & distortion. Watch the videos a few times and emulate the technique.
 
I figured out how to use the setup. When the instructions say dry sanding with the system is easier....they really mean it...lol. I used to wet sand everything above 300 grit, so it was quite a surprise to me that dry sanding was safe on glass. I have a tight spot in the tank in front of the overflow that happens to be the deepest scratch in the tank. I do not have an angle drill and they are a bit pricey to buy to deal with one scratch. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
I would leave that one alone. If you don't have room to get at least double the diameter of the disk you'll just make it worse and have lensing went you're done.

Also when they say spend a lot of time with the blue pad they mean it. The longer you spend with it the better the final polishing will come out.
 
The ptoblem is that it is on the front glass and deep enough that my thumbnail not only catches it but it stops my mand if I have pressure on my thumbnail. It is the only one that is actually visible with water in the tank

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At that depth I'd look into a filler. Like the kind for windshields. You'll mess the pane up if you try to get one that deep out. You might be able to get it looking a little better but have serious lensing if you attempt to get it all the way out.
 
I had assumed fillers would be bad for aquarium glass. Are they reef safe and hold up under water?

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I would think that if there was one that cures, either epoxy or by uv, it would be ok. People are using epoxy all the time for attaching rock & frags. Look for one that drys/cures as clear as possible and is uv stable. That's why I'm thinking windshield repair kits. Once you find one contact the vendor to be safe.

My computer is down in the man cave, installing my tank that has to come down. &#128544; Once I'm back online I'll help do some searching.
 
I did some searching on my phone and found several products but many required a vacuum tool. That got me thinking. Why not call Safelite or a similar company and ask them if it's safe once cured. You might be able to get it done for $50 or so.
 
I think I will leave it alone andjust polish the rest then seal. At some point rehabing the tank is more expensive than a new one.

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anit77;1083900 wrote: I did some searching on my phone and found several products but many required a vacuum tool. That got me thinking. Why not call Safelite or a similar company and ask them if it's safe once cured. You might be able to get it done for $50 or so.
Click to expand...
Tha ks for looking it up and for the idea

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Yea I was thinking the same thing about the expense. That's why I sold the one I was working on. That thing had a lot of scratches though.

The kit will do a good job on a few scratches no more than 1/32" deep. Access is just so limited in the tank to do much close to the corners.

If you've got a workshop and can handle the panes of glass you can completely disassemble a tank and do a really good job. Most people would never know when your done.
 
Yea I would think its a bit of work. Beers and a buddy, a couple weekends... the thing is that the polishing would be so much easier. It's the whole disassembling and reassembling.
 
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