Separating pipe cement?
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x2, the cement momentarily liquidifies(? is that right? lol) the surface of the pvc, basically welding the plastic together
PVC cement does a bond called a "solvent weld," meaning it does not stick the two pieces together, it actually dissolves the PVC surfaces it comes into contact with, allows then to mix, and they become one. Any PVC solvent weld should be as strong as the pipe itself, probably stronger since it is thicker than the two single pieces you are joining.
take note.....
I purchased a set of ratcheting pipe cutters and used them to cut 1.5" pvc pipe (from a stock length of pipe)..
I cut my hands TWICE trying to cut the pipe (DEEP CUTS)... the cutters say they are good to 1-5/8" but I wouldn't use them for anything over 1" (for that, they go through the pipe like it was butter)
you can put everything back together with unions..
I purchased a set of ratcheting pipe cutters and used them to cut 1.5" pvc pipe (from a stock length of pipe)..
I cut my hands TWICE trying to cut the pipe (DEEP CUTS)... the cutters say they are good to 1-5/8" but I wouldn't use them for anything over 1" (for that, they go through the pipe like it was butter)
you can put everything back together with unions..
Hack saw, Jig saw, or sawzal.
Those crimping cutters bend and break the pipe, making new connections a PINA
If you have a REALLY expensive fitting or valve you can cut the pipe off it, then grind the old pipe out with a sanding wheel on a dremel, OR use a heat gun and peel out the pipe. There is a video of it on youtube, but im at work so its blocked :/
Oh and when redoing joints like that make sure to use heavy duty(thicker) PVC cement.
Those crimping cutters bend and break the pipe, making new connections a PINA
If you have a REALLY expensive fitting or valve you can cut the pipe off it, then grind the old pipe out with a sanding wheel on a dremel, OR use a heat gun and peel out the pipe. There is a video of it on youtube, but im at work so its blocked :/
Oh and when redoing joints like that make sure to use heavy duty(thicker) PVC cement.
I used to be a plumber and i had to do this quite a bit. Sometimes if a fitting is in the wall of floor and it is impossible to get to i had to remove the pipe from the hub. It may be hard to explain but i will try.
1) cut the pipe off at the fitting.
2) remove the hacksaw blade.
3) holding the blade with your hand, cut the piece of pipe inside the hub lengthwise. Try not to cut into the fitting.
4) Using a flathead screwdriver, pry the pipe away from the fitting. It may be easier to do this if you make more than one cut in step 3. The piece of pipe should PEEL and POP out.
It's easier to do with bigger fittings. The hub of the fitting is now larger than it was when it was brand new, so use lots and lots of glue when installing a new pipe and always wait for it to cure fully before adding pressure. Check for leaks.
1) cut the pipe off at the fitting.
2) remove the hacksaw blade.
3) holding the blade with your hand, cut the piece of pipe inside the hub lengthwise. Try not to cut into the fitting.
4) Using a flathead screwdriver, pry the pipe away from the fitting. It may be easier to do this if you make more than one cut in step 3. The piece of pipe should PEEL and POP out.
It's easier to do with bigger fittings. The hub of the fitting is now larger than it was when it was brand new, so use lots and lots of glue when installing a new pipe and always wait for it to cure fully before adding pressure. Check for leaks.
If you're cutting this pipe ATTACHED TO THE TANK, I would use a hack saw by HAND. The ratcheting ones can (and often times do) break the pipe which would in all probability, break your tank.
Any power tool may likely snag and/or vibrate enough to do the same.
The only time I had to cut something off the tank itself, I did it very slowly by hand with a hacksaw and it was clean and had no problems.
Any power tool may likely snag and/or vibrate enough to do the same.
The only time I had to cut something off the tank itself, I did it very slowly by hand with a hacksaw and it was clean and had no problems.
I had originally thought that I definitely did not want to use flexible hose and clamps, but the more I think about it I may actually do that. At lest for starters. There is a high likelyhood that once I set all of this up and live with it for a little while, I will want to adjust some things. It would seem way better if all I had to take apart would be hose and clamps versus PVC and glue.
Ever had any leaks or anything related to the hose? What kind of hose and clamps are you using?
I've never had a hard plumbed PVC reef setup. For me, it is too rigid and inflexible. If I need to change something around I just cut the tube and use a new piece. Just make sure you use clamps on all the hose to barb fittings. I use the metal worm gear type on all my dry connections, and nylon clamp type on anything submerged. You can use either the gray pvc type barb fittings or the white nylon type. The nylon type are easier to get hose off of, but you can't glue them to PVC, whereas you can the PVC barbed fittings, of course. You will use teflon tape on any threaded nylon hose barbs at the screw in point with PVC . Lowes has a good selection of both types. Home Depot not so much.
PVC or hose will work, but my personal preference is flexible tubing.
lol saw is the only ways ive found
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