Sick Oscellaris Clown

leslie

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My oscellaris clown that I've had for 4 months did not eat this morning. She has good color and breathing, but is listing on occassion. And she has white stuff trailing from her belly. Help!?!?

My params:

Ammonia - 0
Nitrate - 0
Nitrtite - 0
PH - 7.9
Temp - 76.6
SG - 1.023

Any ideas? And I can't catch her.. I've tried.

Les
 
I just went through a similar experience. The string in common sigh of an internal parasite. I don't know if it is treatable. In my case it was a $5 chromis that was affected, so I caught him and sent him to fishy heaven before any of my nicer fish could be infected. I'd suggest doing some research on parasites and hope for the best. Good Luck!
 
So if it's a parasite and I can't catch the fish, should I use this Chem Marin Stop Parasite stuff?

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Would a freshwater dip have any impact.... If I can get my son to catch him. He is much better at that than I am.
 
I think doing hypersalinty(i think that is what it is called when you lower the SG of the water. please correct me if I am wrong) would slow down the parasite's impact but I can't be sure as I have not had to endure the stresses of a sick fish. mine just disappear.


good luck, I sure hope they survive
 
Kirru;281792 wrote: I think doing hypersalinty(i think that is what it is called when you lower the SG of the water. please correct me if I am wrong) would slow down the parasite's impact but I can't be sure as I have not had to endure the stresses of a sick fish. mine just disappear.


good luck, I sure hope they survive
Bad idea..... Not sure if it would work for internal parasites..

And its Hyposalinty
 
eh, its late and I am not to keen on spelling. lol

but it was a thought and I tried. :)

one day i'll be smart as ya'll
 
Kirru;281799 wrote: eh, its late and I am not to keen on spelling. lol

but it was a thought and I tried. :)

one day i'll be smart as ya'll
Atleast I dont think it will work...You might be right though..

Off to find out
 
Found this:

<span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 13px">I've not posted the general instructions for a hyposalinity treatment before now. Mostly it isn't that difficult to perform. However, there are some pitfalls and for some aquarists (especially those that think</em> it will be easy) it isn't easy. http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="" /> Hyposalinity is the nicest (to the fish) and easiest (on the fish) way to treat marine fish of Marine Ich ([I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em>).

The hyposalinity treatment only treats a very limited number of ciliated parasites. The most notable in this group is Marine Ich ([I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em>). The home aquarist will <u>not</u> be using hyposalinity to treat any other disease or condition. Is this clear? I'll write it again -- hyposalinity cures ONLY Marine Ich.

A hyposalinity treatment will kill: Pods, snails, crabs, invertebrates, corals, live rock, most marine algae, and Marine Ich. This is why it is best performed in a separate, bare bottom, hospital tank. It has been performed successfully in fish only aquariums where there is no live rock and the substrate doesn't have worms and pods in it. But the best treatment tank is a bare bottom hospital tank, set up like a quarantine tank.

A hyposalinity treatment will not kill other parasites or conditions. A hyposalinity treatment <u>does not kill</u> Marine Velvet ([I]Amyloodinium ocellatum</em>), bacterial infections, injuries, intestinal parasites, external parasites, and a few hundred other diseases. Let's get to it! </span></span>
 
We caught her!!! She's now in a 10 gal QT tank and I dosed Para Guard. Anything else I should be doing?
 
An update:

Two days ago we noticed a white, flattish protrusion from her ventral fin. It fell off this morning. I scooped it out of the QT tank. It's a hard, flat, white thing about 1/3 of an inch long and narrow. Having left it out it is now no longer flat and seems to be drying up.

And she ate this afternoon for the first time since a week ago last Friday!! I have no idea how she lived that long without food.

So, how long do I keep her in QT? Should I be concerned about my display tank?

I'm treating with metronidazole and paraguard.
 
<span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 13px">The hyposalinity treatment only treats a very limited number of ciliated parasites. The most notable in this group is Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans</em>). The home aquarist will <u>not</u> be using hyposalinity to treat any other disease or condition. Is this clear? I'll write it again -- hyposalinity cures ONLY Marine Ich.</span></span>


Ummm... Hypo can be used with Brook and Velvet and many external worm infoections... So it is not just for Ich.


Paragaurd will not do much for an internal parasite. You need an internal worm medication like Fenbendazole or Paridazole. This should be an ingredient in most fluke medications or internal parasite meds. You can also get it from a vet for a few bucks. Metronidazole will work if you can get enough of it ingested but it is not as effective as Fenbendazole. It needs to be ingested by the fish for about three weeks time. It will kill any worm in the tank and some inverts so it should only be used in the QT tank. You can treat the entire QT tank with about 1.8mg/gal of Fenbendazole but direct feeding is better. Keep in QT for 3-4 weeks after normal eating has resumed.

Hope that helps.
 
Sulfathiazole is mainly and anti-biotic and an anti-fungal. It is not really useful for internal worms and/or parasites. You would be better off with metronidazole or even better, Fenbendazole.

I like that Seachem has made these medications available to people, without a perscription. But I really wish that they would improve the education of what they treat and how. They are not cure-alls.
 
Awe, that sucks! Listen to Brandon on this one. (that might be the only time you hear me say that though! LOL!)
 
As a follow up, the clown is back in the main tank and healthy as a horse, so to speak.

THANKS to EVERYONE for their input. This is a success story.
 
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