Sps issues

brent03

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I recently bought some corals in a live sale after my tank has been stable for about 3 months now. During the sale I noticed some free and $1 acropora frags. Now I understand I wasn’t particularly ready for this coral but was told that you’ll never know what corals you can keep unless you try. I also bought Zoas, favia, a hammer, a chalice, and a montipora that was pretty cheap. I saw on WWC that they suggest not immediately dipping newly shipped corals due to stress. So I just rinsed and scrubbed the plugs before adding and then dipped a couple days later. After dipping everything opened back up and looked great except the Monti and two of the acros. All three of these corals were immediately stating to bleach with a film coming off them. I followed the back of the coralrx for the amount of dip and only dipped for 8 minutes. What could have caused this? One acro was totally fine and still looks good. I know they are tough to keep but I’d like to learn from this so I don’t repeat whatever I did wrong.

Parameters:
Nitrate: 2ppm
Phosphate: undetectable
PH: 8.2
Alk: 10.2dkh
Calcium: 410ppm
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
Salinity: 1.025
Temp: 78
 

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Your tank maybe stable (taking your words for it :)), but the corals that got to you comes from completely system.

First thing I always check/ask is the type of the salt they use. So I can get an idea as where they are coming from. After that, you can guess or ask what else they do to that system so you can be aware as what to dose or not to dose!?

If it comes from reputable shops, you can probably skip dipping and they probably that extra cautions on their end to inform the buyer that they don’t have to dip.

My job is to get my tank up to Par (pun)!

So when those SPS corals comes from the well established tank, my tank can handle them.
 
So, this brings an idea to mind, inspired by the process I go through for acclimating inverts and sensitive fish for my freshwater tanks. Probably massive overkill, but...

With more sensitive/delicate corals (or especially, down the road, with properly expensive ones), like @project1004 says above, you might want to find out what the parameters of the water they're being kept in are.

Me? I think I would maybe stand up a QT tank with those parameters, or as close as you can manage. You probably aren't going to want to switch salts in your display or anything - though, shoot, for expensive corals, you might actually ask if they'd be willing to include (for a fee, of course) enough salt to mix up 5 - 20 gallons or so - but rather just try to get the water in the QT tank as close as possible to the water it came from, and ensure your display isn't too far out of line with what it needs. Either way, go ahead try to get the QT water as close to the seller's parameters as possible. Worst case, simply test the water it came in: it will have been in this water for a few days now, so matching it as closely as you can should reduce the initial transfer shock, regardless of whether it has drifted from the parameters it was normally kept in.

Then, slowly drip the "QT water" you've mixed up into the water the coral (or animal) shipped in until you've at least doubled the amount of water it shipped in, if not more - this should take no less than an hour, at minimum: the more sensitive the species, the longer it should take, and the temp in the bag/bucket/whatever should be fairly close to the temp of the QT tank.

Since we're using a QT tank for conditioning/observation, once there's enough water in the holding/transfer container to keep the livestock submerged, go ahead and transfer the stock (including the water it shipped in) into the QT tank, and continue slowly dripping water from your mixing bucket into the QT tank until you've got at least 5 gallons worth.

Now we begin observation and acclimatization. If you feel the need to do a dip, do so either immediately if the animal is looking especially rough and demands it, or 8 - 24 hours after putting it in QT, if it's looking especially good and isn't likely to be perturbed by it. Over the next few days, do a 10% - 20% water changes on the QT tank each day (or no more often than every 8 hours), replacing it with water from your main display tank (not freshly made salt water) until you have accomplished at least a 100% water change (if not 200%) over that observation period.

This way you can give it time to adjust gradually to the parameters of your display tank (and not your raw, fresh salt mix). Remember, stability is one of the most important things in this hobby, and transitions should be managed slowly and carefully. Giving the animal time to adjust should make it much easier for it to adapt comfortably to your parameters instead of being shocked by them.
 
Thank yall for the replies. I’ll have to start working on the QT tanks soon. My corals came from TSA so I’ll have to see if I can get their water parameters. The snozberry acro looks like it’s already coming back but I fear the Red Robin may be done for. The monti also seems to be improving slightly so hopefully I’ll be able to get them back to health!
 
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