Staining Wood?

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jgoal55

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Well I have to get to staining my stand and canopy. I don't have the canopy yet bc the carpenter I'm working lost power at his warehouse for 2 days but I wanted to be ready so I was just wondering what some of your preferred methods were.

Brush? Foam brush? Sponge? Etc.

Also, do you stain then varnish, laquer, sanding sealer? Etc. brands? kinds? I know that I dont want a super shiny end look but thats about all I know.

Thx.
 
Clean it free of dirt, dust and anything else first.
Wipe it on with a brush and then off with a towel or old tshirt. I usually do this twice. Add semi gloss. If you have any imperfections then lightly sand and then recoat with semi
 
I found it easier to dip an old wash towel in the stain and spread evenly in forward strokes. it came out nice.
 
Maple and Birch fantastic woods to work with but both can become very blotchy when staining. To avoid that and to insure a more uniform stain color you should use a prestain conditioner. Sand with 150 grit, prestain conditioner, stain, sanding sealer. sand with 300 grit, apply poly or lacquer, usually 2 coats of poly or 3 coats of lacquer. sand with 600 grit between coats of lacquer or poly. I prefer the lacquer over the poly. Dries quicker and recoats quicker. If I can not spray the stain then wiping on is my next choice. This is based on using minwax product from HD or LOWES. There are superior finishes out there but most are exspensive and have to be sprayed. If you would like info on them shoot me a pm.
 
Remember, superior results are gotten by sanding, sanding, sanding, before you ever put finish on, and then like mentioned, sand with 600 grit between coats. All the sanding helps to give it professional results.


I designed, and then finished a sword rack (I know, screaming geek...)that looks like it would have come out of a furniture store.
 
definitely use a sanding sealer like Grouper suggested..

I like the foam brushes when applying darker stains (lighter stains can go on with just about any method).. if you've got a large spanse of open wood (like the top of the canopy) be sure to use a wide foam brush..

maple and birch don't really take stain quickly so you'll have to let it sit for a while before you remove the stain.. (remove using the same tediously long strokes that you did when applying) and you might have to put a couple coats on to get it to where you want it to be..

I'd recommend a satin finish polyurethane clear coat after you've got the color you want and it's dried for at least 36 hours..

then very light pressure on the steel wool (#000) between your two poly coats.. (don't use sand paper, it's tougher to get right than steel wool)

it'll look great..
 
After trying 9 different stains I finally found the color I wanted by mixing 2 diff stains. This was like 3 days ago.

Ive now tried the stain using various diff methods on an spare piece of the wood. I think it looks best when applied using an old tshirt, then wiping off after about 10minutes. I sanded with 320 prior to applying. looks really even. 1 coat of the stain seems to have worked well though Im going to try another coat tomorrow on top just to see.

Also, 1 coat of a semi gloss poly achieved the look I wanted but again going to try another coat tomorrow. well see....

Grouper......I cant spray bc the stand is indoors and way too difficult to move out so the tshirt worked well and Im happy with the look...

Did have a question about sanding sealer though. I havent used it but as of now I like the look of my stain.....but several ppl have told me to use it.

a) What is it?
b) does it darken the stain at all?
c) Ive had a couple of ppl recommend to apply prior to staining....youre saying to apply after staining correct?
d) does sanding sealer diminish the natural markings and grain of the wood? I would really like all that to show. I love that look.
e) I didnt use a pre-stain conditioner and I like the look, should I apply anyway?
f) Can I use an electrical sander? (not a circular one)

thx.
 
Jgoal55;393917 wrote: After trying 9 different stains I finally found the color I wanted by mixing 2 diff stains. This was like 3 days ago.

Ive now tried the stain using various diff methods on an spare piece of the wood. I think it looks best when applied using an old tshirt, then wiping off after about 10minutes. I sanded with 320 prior to applying. looks really even. 1 coat of the stain seems to have worked well though Im going to try another coat tomorrow on top just to see.

Also, 1 coat of a semi gloss poly achieved the look I wanted but again going to try another coat tomorrow. well see....

Grouper......I cant spray bc the stand is indoors and way too difficult to move out so the tshirt worked well and Im happy with the look...

Did have a question about sanding sealer though. I havent used it but as of now I like the look of my stain.....but several ppl have told me to use it.

a) What is it?
It is a prethinned topcoat used on top of stain to seal the wood pores and allow a smooth finish before the thicker top coats
b) does it darken the stain at all?
No , nomore than your poly will
c) Ive had a couple of ppl recommend to apply prior to staining....youre saying to apply after staining correct?
After yes
d) does sanding sealer diminish the natural markings and grain of the wood? I would really like all that to show. I love that look.
No
e) I didnt use a pre-stain conditioner and I like the look, should I apply anyway?
Not if you like the way it looks.
I don't like to sand with anything over 150 grit before staining as finer grits tend to seal the wood making it diffilcult for the stain to soak in. I still think the two woods will stain blotchy once you stain a large area you will see the effect but if you like that then no need to use a prestain conditioner.
f) Can I use an electrical sander? (not a circular one)
Sorry best to hand sand.

thx.
Click to expand...
Hope this helps
 
I have a couple additions to the great suggestions already made.

1) Make sure you sand everything very carefully before staining. Any machining marks will show up in the stain like a neon sign. Did your carpenter sand the piece for you? If not, there is a process you should follow before starting the finish.

2) After sanding, blast your project with comressed air (if you have it) to get the dust out of the cracks and grain, then use a tack cloth to clean the surfaces before applying any stain or finish.

3) Multiple coats of poly will tend to add a little yellow tint to the project so if you are using a light stain, you may want to put 3 or 4 coats on your test board to make sure you like the color. If you are using a medium to dark stain, this probably is not an issue.

4) You want at least 3 but 4 coats of poly would be better (inside and out, top and bottom, edges) to protect the piece from moisture. The second coat of poly may make the sheen slightly more shiny since you are getting more fill on the pores of the wood but the sheen shouldn't change much from coats 2 on. This varys based on the species of wood used.

5) I assume your test board was a narrow piece, correct? The blotchy stain take-up that Maple is know for, may not show up on a small piece of wood, but there is a good chance it will on the larger panels. I would suggest using Minwax conditioner. It goes on just before the stain and doesn't need much drying time.

I love Minwax Oil based stains and poly. Never had a bad result with those products. I'm not a fan of any of the water based stains and finishes.
 
Jgoal55;393917 wrote:
a) What is it?
Click to expand...
GT had it right on his answers, save one caveat...

Sanding sealer goes on BEFORE you stain, after you have sanded and thoroughly cleaned the wood.. It prepares the wood's surface to accept the stain evenly.. (effectively locking out the different, more porous grains that can be found in most wood)

It helps the color to keep from looking blotchy (as GT mentioned).. the minwax conditioner mentioned above is a sanding sealer

you CAN use an electric sander (should be a random orbital sander for best results) but as GT stated above.. sanding by hand is best..
 
Rbredding;393938 wrote:
Sanding sealer goes on BEFORE you stain, after you have sanded and thoroughly cleaned the wood.. It prepares the wood's surface to accept the stain evenly.. (effectively locking out the different, more porous grains that can be found in most wood)

It helps the color to keep from looking blotchy (as GT mentioned).. the minwax conditioner mentioned above is a sanding sealer

you CAN use an electric sander (should be a random orbital sander for best results) but as GT stated above.. sanding by hand is best..
Click to expand...

Not true! DO NOT apply a sanding sealer before you stain. It does exactly as it's name implies, it SEALS the wood grain preventing stain from soaking in at all. Minwax Wood conditioner is not a sanding sealer.

Wood conditioner before you stain - http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_preparation/oil_based_pre_stain_wood_conditioner.html">http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_preparation/oil_based_pre_stain_wood_conditioner.html</a>

Sanding sealer (optional IMO) before you topcoat - [IMG]http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_preparation/sanding_sealer.html">http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_preparation/sanding_sealer.html</a>
 
The prestain conditioner and the sanding sealer are totally different and usually identical as well. The prestain conditioner is a super thinned down version(mostly solvent) of the sandingsealer in most brands. The sanding sealer contains more of the sealant(poly,lacquer etc.) than the prestain. It can be used before stain but must be thinned to the correct percentage to insure that it doesnot seal the wood too much as Schwaggs said above. I see no need to try or risk that with the prestain available in the diy minwax product. But both of you are actually correct.
 
grouper therapy;393951 wrote: But both of you are actually correct.
Click to expand...


I can live with being partially correct, it's the partially INCORRECT that I have an issue with..

:D



diy_ht_index.asp
 
Rbredding;394009 wrote: I can live with being partially correct, it's the partially INCORRECT that I have an issue with..

:D



http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_index.asp?page_id=35720433">http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_index.asp?page_id=35720433</a>[/QUOTE]
That is probably a good idea for refinishing as the video brings out especially after a bleaching and using water base top coats.
Click to expand...
 
I imagine....like most things, there are several ways to do things all of which may provide great results. I have to say though, most of the responses I have seen (here and in another thread) call for applying the sanding sealer post stain. However, many of them also say not to use at all.....it seems about 50/50. I think to be safe however, I will use it.

The carpenter did sand the unit but he recommended another good sanding with a fine grit sand paper (220-320). Thats why I used that for the sample.

So, here is the plan:

1) Sand by hand (GT says 150, carpenter says 220-320....lol) ....Maybe ill go somewhere in the middle?????

2) Pre-stain conditioner (however, minwax says this is for soft woods...isnt maple considered a hardwood?)

3) Stain (prob 2 coats)

4) Sanding Sealer

5) Poly - 2 coats.

PS - Here is a pic of the stand.

IMG_0449.jpg
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Recommended uses:any soft or porous woods - common examples include pine, fir and spruce (soft) or maple, alder and aspen (porous)
From the Minwax site

And you are correct maple is a type of hardwood but alot of hardwoods are porous.
Fust a tid bit of info
Softwoods are typically evergreens pine,spuce,cedar etc. trees that drop seeds without a covering.
Hardwood are trees that drop seeds with a covering and usually shed their leaves in the winter except for those in warmer climates, The biggest difference is the seed type. It has nothing to do with the density of the wood.
OK I will compromise with a fellow carpenter and go with 180 Grit haha
 
ahh thanks....didnt think about the porousness of the wood.

about the compromise..lol...i have to ask the carpenter but was possibly thinking that maybe he suggested a high grit sanding because he already sanded with a lower grit......could this be the case?
 
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