Stand paint question

[saltwaterwannabe]

I sanded down my bowfront stand today, added some bracibg since it was a bit wobbky for my liking, and caulked the seams around the inside floor. My plan is to paint the inside of the atand white and use Flex Seal on the bottom to make a pan for any future leaks to buy some time before water reaches my hardwoods. The question is about the inside of the stand above the sump. While I have everything prepped properly and do not envision flaking paint, do I need to use reef safe paint in the off chance that paint flakes off some day?

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[grouper therapy]

I don't think so. What did you prime with?

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

I have not primed yet. Was going to go with kilz since I already have some. I have a few others too, but they are brush on.

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[grouper therapy]

There is a shellac based product that is really good for priming over any previous finished items. I use it often in kitchen refinishing especially when the previous finish is a mystery. Much like kilz but shellac based. Made by "zensser" not sure that is the correct spelling though.

 

[sewer urchin]

Much like kilz but shellac based. Made by "zensser" not sure that is the correct spelling though.

Was it this stuff by chance....
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Zinsser-Zinsser-Shellac-Interior-Oil-Primer-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3610422?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-Primers-_-3610422:Zinsser&CAWELAID=&kpid=3610422&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=662&k_clickID=f33aa346-6094-4881-ad81-c6383df16c39">http://www.lowes.com/pd/Zinsser-Zinsser-Shellac-Interior-Oil-Primer-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3610422?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-Primers-_-3610422:Zinsser&CAWELAID=&kpid=3610422&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=662&k_clickID=f33aa346-6094-4881-ad81-c6383df16c39</a>

The reason I ask is because I'm kinda in the same boat, but with a canopy. I've got some sanded 3/4 A-C ply that I was thinking of using, but the last canopy I had ( I didn't make it) the ply became de-laminated due to the moisture. The cut edge sat on the rim of the tank, so I'm sure that it wicked the water right up. I wonder if some sort of banding would help.

 

[Adam]

I don't know about waterproofing enough to hold water but Appliance Epoxy works great. Pretty strong stuff to work with, you'll need a respirator, but it will soak into the wood and after a few coats will finish up to a nice waterproof gloss. I'm just not sure if it will seal non calked seams enough to forum a pan that will hold water. If you used the flex seal after painting with the epoxy you'd be good to go for sure.

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

anit77;1096282 wrote: I don't know about waterproofing enough to hold water but Appliance Epoxy works great. Pretty strong stuff to work with, you'll need a respirator, but it will soak into the wood and after a few coats will finish up to a nice waterproof gloss. I'm just not sure if it will seal non calked seams enough to forum a pan that will hold water. If you used the flex seal after painting with the epoxy you'd be good to go for sure.

I caulked the seams yesterday, so I am not too worried about the seams unless water soaks through the wood and bypasses them. Flex Seal says it can be painted over, I am just not sure if it would be hard enough to prevent the paint from cracking or prevent me from sliding equipment around. I am now thinking about using the flex seal and using a spare piece of countertop laminate over the flex seal to make a hard surface, although this would leave the flex seal exposed an inch up from the bottom that I would paint over...unless I go even further and line the inside bottom of the stand with the countertop laminate....seems a bit overkill at that point though and would make attaching things like pipe and wire hangers to the inside walls more difficult.

 

[Adam]

I haven't used flex seal before but I think the surface texture would be similar to Plasti Dip. Appliance Epoxy will have a hard glossy finish. If you go with Flex Seal and feel that it will be hard to move things around you could just put a thin piece of plastic down on the bottom. Even something like this.

 

[grouper therapy]

The problem with most of these finishes is that you don't get a complete 100 % deal and then when moisture does permeate it never seems to dry out and then things go south.

 

[hzheng33]

can this be used before applying for paint? it seems like it's for varnishes and stain, rather than paint.

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

I see no reason int cannot be used over paint. I used a spray can of flex seal, which apparently does not cover as easily as paint. I will pickup some brush on then cover the bottom with laminate for counters. It should make a decent seal and nice surface

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[Adam]

hzheng33;1097094 wrote: can this be used before applying for paint? it seems like it's for varnishes and stain, rather than paint.
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Zinsser-Shellac-Clear-Base-128-fl-oz-Shellac/3098549">http://m.lowes.com/pd/Zinsser-Shellac-Clear-Base-128-fl-oz-Shellac/3098549</a>[/QUOTE]

In my experience shellac's and urethane's do not hold up well when in frequent contact with water, especially if the water gets behind the coating. It will cloud up milky as it absorbs water and will eventually wrinkle. Once it wrinkles and then drys it cracks, then the wood will start to swell the next time it gets wet. This will happen at seams and under appliances/tanks 1st.
10yrs ago I helped a good friend build out a sushi restaurant. We laid 7 coats on the sushi bar sanding between coats and buff polishing out the final finish. Within 4-5yrs this happened wherever water sat for any length of time. This is what David is referring to above.

For $25 more I would go with something [IMG]http://www.lowes.com/pd/Famowood-Gloss-Oil-Based-141-fl-oz-Polyurethane/3366918?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-InteriorStains-_-3366918:Famowood&CAWELAID=&kpid=3366918&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1603&k_clickID=f249f383-d696-4b28-bb64-78dd040b008e">like this.</a> It's listed as a polyurethane but it is more like epoxy as it is a two part that needs to be mixed. You wouldn't need to lay it on as think for this type application and a light sanding once dry will hold paint.

With the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy. If you don't prime first it will soak very deeply into the wood. The first couple coats it literally soaks it up like a sponge.

 

[grouper therapy]

There is a primer that contains shellac and would be a better candidate for painting over. Same company as above.
Shellac is a good "lock down" primer for any finish as it will seal in contaminants from other finishes polishes etc.
Here is one from Sherwin Williams
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/catalog/white-pigmented-shellac-primer/">http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/catalog/white-pigmented-shellac-primer/</a>

What Adam recommends is great stuff as well but you must seal all edges. It is just impossible for me to use on vertical cabinetry. Remember if it does a great job keeping moisture out it will do the same keeping it in. I spray all my cabinets with a Pre catalyzed Lacquer that is second only to conversion varnish in water resistant top coats. The old Nitrocellulose lacquers were horrible with moisture. Most of the lacquers and conversion varnishes should be sprayed on.

 

[Adam]

+1 for spray on.

And wtf didn't I think of that when I was doing mine. I have a big compressor at my office and a pretty nice spray gun I haven't pulled out in over a decade. If prep'd right you could put down a near mirror finish.

I understand what you mean about appling vertically. You can't spray it on thick enough to fill the joints without it sagging or running. But at the inside base you wouldn't have that problem.

The Rustoleum stuff soaks in so deep I'd almost call it a composite. But yes if everything isn't done perfect and water gets in it would stay there for quite some time and then you've got rot.

 

[hzheng33]

so I have a few questions for the pros here:

1) is it to better to use exterior paint than interior paint for aquarium stands?

2) how much difference is there between a paint (such as valspar exterior paint) that is primer+paint and if you were to prime and paint separately?

 

[Adam]

Interior paint is pretty much out.

Some of the newer exterior paint is pretty incredible.

What is the finish and color your looking for?

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[hzheng33]

white, smooth and glossy finish if possible.

 

[grouper therapy]

hzheng33;1097268 wrote: white, smooth and glossy finish if possible.

I can't help you with paint , it is something I avoid like the plague. If you decide to spray let me know and I can help you with some really nice industrial qaulity finishes.

 

[Adam]

hzheng33;1097268 wrote: white, smooth and glossy finish if possible.

Are you looking for a furniture grade finish?
You're welcome to stop by and see what I've done.

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[saltwaterwannabe]

I repainted the exterior today. I will paint over everything i side bevore adding the laminate to tbe inside base. I figure a decent grade enamel will work decently for the inside sides. I may make an attachmebt point for equipment on the inside of the doors where there is room beside the sump and at one end of the stand for pc4s, etc that I hope to pickup in a vouple weeks. Any suggestions?

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