Structural engineer

Jdadams

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Any good recommendations on a engineer? I getting a 180 and want to make sure my floor is ready for the load. Probably about 250gal total water volume with sump. My joist will be horizontal to tank, tank is sitting up against foundation, and there is a wall separating 2 rooms that will be directly under the tank that will also support. Everything checks off but I just want to be 100%.
 
Assuming its residential construction @ 40psf. 250 gallon or a 2000 lbs 1ton women. Make it 1 cubic yard to get a easy feel of the old girl.
Convert to feet @ 3ft x 3ft x3ft. The surface of the base is 3x3 or 9 ft. Total 2000lbs divided by 9 is 222 psf.
Even if you cut the height in half at 18 inch its still at 110 psf. A standard stick construction can build 3 stories using plain 2x4 @16 oc walls Build a 2x4 wall centered under the tank. Fire Block the studs, 2 blocks if over 8ft. Crib across the horizontal joists under the tank and on the wall top plate @ 16oc close to 16 oc studs. Two 2x4 walls or a 2x6 wall is better.
Note: do not try this at home and a wealth of misinformation. I did build my own house. You really only need a carpenter.
 
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40psf is the dead load max . There is a 100psf live load which is moving weight , so it doesnt count. your floor should hold the tank, its the deflection and 40psf together. The deflection will be less if closer to walls but the weight here is off the chart. 40spf foot also doesnt included flooring which could be 25psf like ceramic and stone. The max is 40-25=15psf
2000/12 = 166psf.
If you dont want a wall you could install a post and beam(header) using standard stick construction at 3 stories. Actually, SSC might be 5 stories. Rule of the thumb, for a header over a opening(note: with 4 stories over it!), is that for every inch wide a doubled-up 2s lumber is, you can span that number in feet. two 2x4 can span 4 ft. you would need two 2x6's. If you sandwich 1/2 plywood then it is 1/3 stronger(9 ft span). this makes a good job beause the beam will match the 2x4 its sitting on. most old school houses use 2x10 . Its uniform, same as floor joists, covers 14ft spans. The post is the sides holding up the header. its two 2x4's yet only 1 2x4 is under the beam.

If its a beam your after with two point loads(posts). 2x10 beam w 1/2in plywood sandwich and two triple width 2x4 posts . two under the beam and a one on the side up to and under the top plate. one top plate and bottom plate is standard.
 
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Thanks for your help. Seems like a lot of work. It’s a split level house and the down stairs under where the tank will be is already complete. Guess I could turn the shop outside in to a fish room.
 
I have used Peach State engineers- search the forum and you will find more info.
 
I have used Peach State engineers- search the forum and you will find more info.
I did try getting touch with them but They haven’t got back with me yet. I saw you mention them on a previous post a while back.
 
Palmer Engineering. 404-391-9245. I had to use them for another issue but they are good and reputable. My engineers name was Troy Hudson.
 
Atleast 4 I would assume, I’m trying to figure that out. and yes against outside load bearing wall.
 
Atleast 4 I would assume, I’m trying to figure that out. and yes against outside load bearing wall.
Yes, joists at 16", yours would sit on four. Only reason I used a jack post on my 180 is because the joists weren't perpendicular. I've got a 110 and 75 stacked, 4' tanks, on another outside wsll where the joists are perpendicular, sitting on only 2 joists. No problems after a couple years.
 
It depends on the total load the joists are carrying, length of the joists, weight on wall that is supported, etc. In our case, we supported the tank area because we wanted no potential issues down the road and a guarantee from a licensed engineer who reviewed the entire situation with our carpenters and contractors who reinforced to the specs provided. Since our main display is in the kitchen and we have long span and a heavy center island load in addition to the kitchen, it made sense to us to add extra support. Better safe than sorry down the road…. And easier to do before tank install.
 
I used Peachstate years ago for a much bigger project at my last house. Great to work with back then... 20+ years.

10 years ago I used Palmer for my office. Gwinnett requires engineering approval for warehouse racking. Had a good experience with them too.
 
How can you tell which way the joists run if the room is finished underneath?
There is an assumtion that the joists are "horizontal" meaning "parallel" to the 6ft dimension of the tank.
If this not the case , it makes a big difference

In that case of parallel joist support and located on a outside wall......

The tank load is 2000lb/12ft= 166psf. If is located on a outside wall and the joists are parallel to the 6ft dimension such that 166psf/2= 80psf. It divides load in half because the wall is non-deflection uniform load bearing This is the calculation of the condition that the joist is at least 16in from the wall and taking half the load.
80psf is twice that of 40psf, but less than 100psf live load. It will hold under ideal conditions. If it is a 2x10 joist then thats the only thing carrying 80psf load and the floor will sag. Get it wet .. Assume it will get wet; which is far less than an ideal condition.
If it is sturdi-floor, then the I-joist or truss are 32in o.c. possibly it will be sitting only on press-board flooring. Strong when dry, but wet..oh dear...

If it were, say, the house that I built, and it used reclaimed #1 spruce 2x12's on 16ft span at 12in o.c., crowned up, with real . 75 dim plywood , then it would hold an armoured tank even when wet. 🤔 yet, I still prop the floor

You need a engineer only to get a stamped blueprint, then he's liable. If you dont change anything and dont get a drawing, its just an opinion.

I'm with yuz guyzez(all ya all) on opinions.

Do not not try this at home doubled up by a wealth of misinformation.
 
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How can you tell which way the joists run if the room is finished underneath?
There is an assumtion that the joists are "horizontal" meaning "parallel" to the 6ft dimension of the tank.
If this not the case , it makes a big difference

In that case of parallel joist support and located on a outside wall......

The tank load is 2000lb/12ft= 166psf. If is located on a outside wall and the joists are parallel to the 6ft dimension such that 166psf/2= 80psf. It divides load in half because the wall is non-deflection uniform load bearing This is the calculation of the condition that the joist is at least 16in from the wall and taking half the load.
80psf is twice that of 40psf, but less than 100psf live load. It will hold under ideal conditions. If it is a 2x10 joist then thats the only thing carrying 80psf load and the floor will sag. Get it wet .. Assume it will get wet; which is far less than an ideal condition.
If it is sturdi-floor, then the I-joist or truss are 32in o.c. possibly it will be sitting only on press-board flooring. Strong when dry, but wet..oh dear...

If it were, say, the house that I built, and it used reclaimed #1 spruce 2x12's on 16ft span at 12in o.c., crowned up, with real . 75 dim plywood , then it would hold an armoured tank even when wet. 🤔 yet, I still prop the floor

You need a engineer only to get a stamped blueprint, then he's liable. If you dont change anything and dont get a drawing, its just an opinion.

I'm with yuz guyzez on opinions.

Do not not try this at home doubled up by a wealth of misinformation.
I guess the right word would be perpendicular. Not parallel with the tank. It’s an outside wall so it’ll be load bearing and I don’t think joist run parallel to load bearing walls, that’s the only reason I’m assuming. I’m going to find out for sure one way or another this weekend.
 
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