Suggestions on how to bridge the gap between overflow and top

gajeep94yj

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I have a bean animal overflow built with glass so it doesn't have the teeth like stuff at the top of the overflow. There is about a half inch of gap between that and the glass top. I didn't think that was going to be a big deal until I keep losing snails and occasionally a fish into the overflow. It's already claimed on chromis and I don't want to lose another. All of my fish are very small so I have a risk of them getting sucked over.

I am looking for suggestions on how to bridge that gap.

The tank is around 32"long

Right now I have cut a piece of diffuser one square high and wedged between the top of the glass and the center support.

Problem there is the diffuser doesn't go the full length of the tank. And even if it did the return line would leave a 2" gap on the other side.

How do most resolve this problem? Or do you just wait until they are to big too fit?

I thought about trying to glue the single height square diffuser to the lid. But wasn't sure what to use to attach it? I used silicone to build the overflow, but that was glass to glass.
 
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Current fix
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Problem could, it doesn't reach the whole way, and the return line would be in the way
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Finger used for reference. The lid overlaps the overflow by about 1/2"
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Back side of current fix
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Can you re-size those...too difficult to try to see what's going on with those huge pictures
 
Current fix
4osdNFu.jpg
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Problem could, it doesn't reach the whole way, and the return line would be in the way
WZyF2kq.jpg
alt="" />

Finger used for reference. The lid overlaps the overflow by about 1/2"
mRM1KXy.jpg
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Back side of current fix
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Better?
I only browser from tappatalk which automatically sizes pics. And I can't figure out how to edit my previous post. Maybe a mod will fix it
 
I was thinking about your issue and a fairly easy way to do it would be to make or buy acrylic brackets that slip over the edge of the glass. Then use Weldon to glue a baffle to the brackets. Just drill out the section of the baffle for your return.

Just to give you an idea of what I'm suggesting, here is two links to current products

Slip on bracket (it would easy to make something similar out of acrylic)

http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=295451&gshop&gclid=CjwKEAjw3sKpBRDJ7rDqzsyuhDASJACZAiki9csSzTp0KZJMHRiliiPU1K_RWZjo_D9R4qY7D8ZrbRoCx4Dw_wcB">http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=295451&gshop&gclid=CjwKEAjw3sKpBRDJ7rDqzsyuhDASJACZAiki9csSzTp0KZJMHRiliiPU1K_RWZjo_D9R4qY7D8ZrbRoCx4Dw_wcB</a>

Here is a baffle that could be made easily as well.

[IMG]http://www.melevsreef.com/catalog/sump-baffles-diy">http://www.melevsreef.com/catalog/sump-baffles-diy</a>


I could probably help you put something like this together fairly easily. Pm me and we'll see what we can do.
 
I have an idea for you on this. I had a similar situation that I had to extend a baffle in my sump area to prevent light but the basic construction could solve your issue. I used acrylic to make a cap that slid on top of the sump baffle to extent it upward. you can make the same thin but only tall enough to add 1/2" above you spill over, then cut slits/teeth into it and not compromise the height of the spill over.
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I actually got some time to work on this again and i tried to form some kydex into something like the shelf clip listed above. Just this clip would go the entire length.

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My problem turned out to be I only had a 1/4"to play with in the part that is going to block the over flow. So getting a thick sheet of kydex to bend two 90 degree bend in a 1/4" was challenging. I set up a jig with some oak strips I had laying around but was only able to get if with in about 3/8"-1/2". Not much in distance but that little but was enough to make it not work.

I'm thinking a single block high of the egg create material 32"long is my best solution.
 
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