Tank Setup Recommendations - Project Codename SUPERCUBE

[jonboyb]

Well the 93 gallon Marineland cube looks like it's gonna happen and I finally have the lighting situation under control. (1) 250w DE MH, (2) 2x24w T5 HO's, (2) 2x18w T5 HO's, and (2) 32w PC's. Sounds crazy but works out great in my canopy design:thumbs: A little better than 5w/gallon.

Anyways, I have a few loose ends to tie up. I will be running a sump constructed from a 20H, 25, or 29 depending on fitment once I see the stand and a seperate 12g refuqium. Now:

1) What return pumps would you guys recommend for the sump? This will be mainly SPS so I was thinking in the Mag 7-9.5 range. I will also have a Vortech MP-40 and several other PH's available for in-tank flow once I get set up.

2) What pump should I use for my refugium? It will have a free overflow return but I have no idea what kind of flow to provide to the fuge itself.

3) Will I need a small PH in the fuge itself being a full 12 gallon volume...like a Koralia nano, or will the pump be enough flow for the macros?

 

[tokejr]

jonboyb;382932 wrote:
2) What pump should I use for my refugium? It will have a free overflow return but I have no idea what kind of flow to provide to the fuge itself.

I find that adding a small HOB filter on the fuge provides extra filtration and enough flow for the macros.

3) Will I need a small PH in the fuge itself being a full 12 gallon volume...like a Koralia nano, or will the pump be enough flow for the macros?

I would say no. Most macroalgae like some flow, but certainly not enough to uproot the plant, and definitely not a laminar flow (single direction). If you have water running through it and add the HOB, you've got multi-directional flow that should keep most macros very happy.

 

[jonboyb]

I'm actually using a old 12 gallon Eclipse I have so I guess I can mod it to still use the hood with the filter and biowheel. I was just going to steal the light off the hood for the fuge, I hadn't planned on retaining the full hood.

I still have to have a pump to bring water from my sump to the standalone refugium though (unless I "y" off the tank overflow line to the fuge).

 

[1percula]

I purchased my Marineland 93 in May. I have a Marineland 4500 pump. It gets the job done. I put a valve in the line because when the pump is wide open the return makes a lot of noise and my tank is in the living room.

I used the plastic prison ties to hold the return line on the pump. I made the mistake of using a steel clamp and the salt went thru it in 2 months. It's a nice tank to look at however, I wished I had got a regular 90. There isn't much room on the floor of the tank, it is 30 inches high so you have to build the rock up, if you are going to have a Reef.

 

[tokejr]

jonboyb;382980 wrote: I'm actually using a old 12 gallon Eclipse I have so I guess I can mod it to still use the hood with the filter and biowheel. I was just going to steal the light off the hood for the fuge, I hadn't planned on retaining the full hood.

I still have to have a pump to bring water from my sump to the standalone refugium though (unless I "y" off the tank overflow line to the fuge).

I would use the "y" because you want to take water out of the DT, strip the nitrates & phosphates, then return it to the DT (or through the sump, then the DT). Just remember you need some "dwell time" in the fuge for it to work well.

 

[jonboyb]

1PERCULA;383142 wrote: I purchased my Marineland 93 in May. I have a Marineland 4500 pump. It gets the job done. I put a valve in the line because when the pump is wide open the return makes a lot of noise and my tank is in the living room.

I used the plastic prison ties to hold the return line on the pump. I made the mistake of using a steel clamp and the salt went thru it in 2 months. It's a nice tank to look at however, I wished I had got a regular 90. There isn't much room on the floor of the tank, it is 30 inches high so you have to build the rock up, if you are going to have a Reef.

The one I'm ordering is only 24 high????

 

[1percula]

Sorry, you are right. It is 30 inches front to back and across.

This is an old link, but I like the way this guy set his up. This pic shows my problem of limited floor space for corals and landscaping.

 

[jonboyb]

Considering my biggest tank right now has an 18x18 footprint, I'm looking forward to the space this one provides

Large Tonga branch would be hard to scape though....I have to give that guy credit.

 

[1percula]

I understand. I went from a Bio Cube 14 to this one. I just expected more space. I also have issues with lighting because of the depth of the tank. I should probably upgrade to Halide in order to make sure that I get enough light through out the tank. I don't know what the effectiveness of T5's are at this depth. There aren't very many 30 inch light configurations, so be prepared to go to a 24 inch setup and hang it.

 

[jonboyb]

Lighting was determined up front. The specs are in the first post but here's the layout (if I keep my rock centered). If I stack against the back wall, I will remove 1 T5 and offset my 250 MH to the back. This I in a custom canopy obviously.

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[hn1]

Just sent you a PM re: return pump.

 

[1percula]

It looks like you got it figured out. I'm trying to keep from using a canopy. I don't want the heat build up and have to buy a chiller. I have a open top right now and my tank is setup to where an open vent A/C is next to the cabinet. I can hardly keep my temps below 81-82 during the day. I just know if I go with a canopy, I'm going to have problems. Keep up the good work.

 

[jonboyb]

My canopy is more of a bracket than fully enclosed unit. It's basically framework to hang my lights and the remainder is aluminum mesh. Should vent decently and prevent carpet surfing My tank will be right under an AC vent too, but I have a chiller backup.

 

[lukestimp]

Jon- You need to get this thing up and running! You know why I'm being so impatient...LOL