Testing tips

[jbdreefs]

So, I have a bunch of test kits. Most of which require, to some degree, monitoring the color of the solution. I have noticed that the color of the light, in which I read the test results, make my colors look a little different.

I currently read my test results under the standard yellowish light and I am thinking about swapping bulbs to more of a white light.

Make sense?

Do you have any other testing tips?

 

[genesis]

If you read the instructions for Red Sea test kits they advise to test with lighting in the whiter 6500k range

 

[lsu_fishfan]

Agreed, I use the flashlight on my iPhone and shine it though the test tube.

 

[jbdreefs]

Genesis;1069799 wrote: If you read the instructions for Red Sea test kits they advise to test with lighting in the whiter 6500k range

Ha, those are what I have gone to now exclusively. I just picked up the Alk test. Is it just me, or does the solution never turn the red/pink color illustrated on the instruction card?

 

[lsu_fishfan]

JBDreefs;1069808 wrote: Ha, those are what I have gone to now exclusively. I just picked up the Alk test. Is it just me, or does the solution never turn the red/pink color illustrated on the instruction card?

With titration test kits like Red Sea, your not looking for it to be a dark color. When you can see the solution begin to change colors, the test is done.

 

[crew]

LSU_fishFan;1069800 wrote: Agreed, I use the flashlight on my iPhone and shine it though the test tube.

I used to do that but my galaxy s6 uses a yellowish LED for a more natural looking camara flash. Now I flip my kessils and use that light.

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

I hate color test kits. They are easy to read in the range the parameters should be...but if the parameters get out of whack the colors ar very hard to interpret

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[porpoiseaquatics]

I don't particularly like color test kits either. For several reasons including the one this thread is founded on. Sometimes you have no choice though. I like to use natural daylight when possible and i place the card and color sample against a white piece of paper for true color.

The real issue with these kinds of tests is that they are pre-measured to a color. What if your color is somewhere in between two colors? Then what's the number? You see the point.

 

[lsu_fishfan]

porpoiseaquatics;1069822 wrote: I don't particularly like color test kits either. For several reasons including the one this thread is founded on. Sometimes you have no choice though. I like to use natural daylight when possible and i place the card and color sample against a white piece of paper for true color.

The real issue with these kinds of tests is that they are pre-measured to a color. What if your color is somewhere in between two colors? Then what's the number? You see the point.

Red Sea doesn't rely on you to distinguish between colors on a color chart. You are looking for the sample to begin to titrate (change colors) then use the chart to see how much of the test solution you used to get a reading. For example, I used .5ml so my alk is 8.5(not actual conversion)

 

[porpoiseaquatics]

LSU_fishFan;1069825 wrote: Red Sea doesn't rely on you to distinguish between colors on a color chart. You are looking for the sample to begin to titrate (change colors) then use the chart to see how much of the test solution you used to get a reading. For example, I used .5ml so my alk is 8.5(not actual conversion)

That's true and I use Red Sea kits. It does still require you to determine a color change though and light does affect exactly when you notice the change. Is it a light blue or a darker blue or even purple. Cards fade over time and if they've gotten wet. A better system? Yes but not fool proof. IMO the best route is with Hanna checkers that give you an actual number. But guess what? They need light too!!

 

[bulkrate]

True, but the checker unit provides its own lighting at a known wavelength in an enclosed testing cavity to obtain said reading from the sample. No subjective color perception involved.

To be fair the Red Sea tests get easier as you get used to them and what they consider a color change, but if Hanna came out with a saltwater magnesium checker I'd drop my Red Sea kit in the trash in a heartbeat.

EDIT: Speaking of which - those of us using Hanna products may want to grab our reagent vials and check their lot numbers against a recent recall list:

 

[jbdreefs]

I really like the Red Sea pro kits, except for the ALK test. Maybe I should just order a refill of the reagents for my Hanna alk checker.

 

[bcavalli]

BulkRate;1069852 wrote: True, but the checker unit provides its own lighting at a known wavelength in an enclosed testing cavity to obtain said reading from the sample. No subjective color perception involved.

To be fair the Red Sea tests get easier as you get used to them and what they consider a color change, but if Hanna came out with a saltwater magnesium checker I'd drop my Red Sea kit in the trash in a heartbeat.

EDIT: Speaking of which - those of us using Hanna products may want to grab our reagent vials and check their lot numbers against a recent recall list: https://hannainst.wufoo.com/forms/w1hzjs2j1b4ejyu/">https://hannainst.wufoo.com/forms/w1hzjs2j1b4ejyu/</a>[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the info! A few months ago I ordered new reagents and my Alk testing results didn't make sense. I went back and checked the lot numbers and have nine bottles affected by the the recall. iit makes alot of sense now. Lol.

 

[russ-iv]

tritation kits from red sea are pretty easy for me.
when the color starts to change orangish for alk i make a note of where it is. then i continue until orange is achieved. make note of that. which is usually .2 ml later. i just average the 2.

calcium i do the same when it hits purple but generally go until the solid blue hits. thats a solid end point.

the comparators like the nitrate and phosphate kits i will look at under a 6500k flourescent light in my powder room.

 

[rdnelson]

porpoiseaquatics;1069831 wrote: That's true and I use Red Sea kits. It does still require you to determine a color change though and light does affect exactly when you notice the change. Is it a light blue or a darker blue or even purple. Cards fade over time and if they've gotten wet. A better system? Yes but not fool proof. IMO the best route is with Hanna checkers that give you an actual number. But guess what? They need light too!!

Regardless of the tint, the color change with Red Sea is pretty distinct IMO. Therefore if it changes from red to green it is the same as if under different light it changes from chartreuse to mauve.

OK, extra credit...... What color is chartruse anyway??????

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[saltwaterwannabe]

rdnelson99;1069892 wrote: Regardless of the tint, the color change with Red Sea is pretty distinct IMO. Therefore if it changes from red to green it is the same as if under different light it changes from chartreuse to mauve.

OK, extra credit...... What color is chartruse anyway??????

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I had to look this one up.....Chartreuse*is halfway between green and yellow — a yellowish green, a greenish yellow. But the spectrum within this*color*ranges from bright lime to light sulphur.

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