Top off system
- Thread starter paul
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I built that one. It got stuck once in the off position. Luckily.
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What's wrong with float valves? I spent $25 for a float valve and a trash can with some airline tubing. Drilled a hole in one side of the sump and everything has worked fine since it's been set up. Not hooked up to my RO/DI tank yet, but soon enough. I just top off the trash can every 4-5 days...
Float switches can stick--they build up salt or other deposits, or a snail or other critter get's on 'em and stick them in one position or the other.
That said, I use a float valve on my RODI which is hooked to my sump. I test and clean the float valve regularily. Importantly--I also have a solenoid & timer on the water line which only lets the float valve control the flow for 15 minutes 4 times a day(that roughly equals my evaporation rate). So, if the float valve were to stick open--and it has--at a minimum I've got days to notice it before the sump would flood.
That said, I use a float valve on my RODI which is hooked to my sump. I test and clean the float valve regularily. Importantly--I also have a solenoid & timer on the water line which only lets the float valve control the flow for 15 minutes 4 times a day(that roughly equals my evaporation rate). So, if the float valve were to stick open--and it has--at a minimum I've got days to notice it before the sump would flood.
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Hmm, that sounds like an idea. Have any part numbers for the solenoid? I guess because my sump allows for about 6 gallons of extra fill, and my top off is only 5 gallons, I never worried about it. I lose a little over a gallon per day.
When I build my new stand/cabinet, I plan to have a much larger reserve tank, so I guess that's something I'll look into.
When I build my new stand/cabinet, I plan to have a much larger reserve tank, so I guess that's something I'll look into.
I don't have a part number--I bought it from a member. However--I just went to look for something comparable on ebay and found these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Parker-120-Volt-STAINLESS-Solenoid-Valves,-150-PSI-New!_W0QQitemZ300280406596QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20081212?IMSfp=TL081212122004r16067">http://cgi.ebay.com/Parker-120-Volt-STAINLESS-Solenoid-Valves,-150-PSI-New!_W0QQitemZ300280406596QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20081212?IMSfp=TL081212122004r16067</a>
I just bought some of 'em. For aquarium use I'll replace the brass fittings with plastic speed fittings. I've an extra if you want it...
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I know those mechanical timers for $5 at Target have pins that you depress. Every pin is a 15min interval. I would guess just depress 4 of them 6 hours apart.
I did essentially the same thing for my tank using the On/Off function in th RKII. I programmed the channel to be on for 1 min then off for 29 min. So for 1 min every 30 mins, the ATO could actually turn on. If the water level was fine for the 1 min period, nothing would happen. If the water level was low during that minute, the float switch would allow DI water into the sump to top off. I never had any problems running the ATO this way.
I used the float switch recommended by mojo in the "Useful items and where to buy them thread".
Yep.
I'm going to put another solenoid on the input line to the RODI and tie it to a water alarm on the floor. I've got a battery operated water alarm there now, but I recently had an issue where the RODI kept pumping waste water on the floor until I heard the alarm going off.
It looks like it would work fine, you'd just need to add a small pump and some tubing. But keep that open relay away from water! I'd put it in a project box or otherwise seal it up.
You could also combine it with a cheap timer if you wanted to take the belt-and-suspenders approach!
You could also combine it with a cheap timer if you wanted to take the belt-and-suspenders approach!
