UV Sterilizer Plumbing Design Review

Boosterman

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Hello,

I'm getting Water Box Frag 105.4 and will be putting Pentair 25W UV Sterilizer. I've drawn the design and got the parts for plumbing.
For flow meter I got 1'' KonaFlow. I also installed a tee with a cap just outside of the sterilizer output to manually check the flow if needed.
Any input is appreciated!

UV Drawing.jpeg
IMG_5469.jpg
 
Are the ball valves just for maintenance of the sterilizer? If using UV, the way you have it diagramed ensures all the water is treated which is good. It also limits the flexibility of using different levels of flow to clarify versus sterilizing the water column.

-Brian
 
Are the ball valves just for maintenance of the sterilizer? If using UV, the way you have it diagramed ensures all the water is treated which is good. It also limits the flexibility of using different levels of flow to clarify versus sterilizing the water column.

-Brian
Yes the two ball values are for annual maintenance. I also wanted to use the combination of two ball valves and one gate valve in the middle to get the optimal flow through UV for either algae control or protozoan control. Having the flow meter read from the outlet of the sterilizer lets me see exactly how much water is being treated. I hope this design works lol I've never glued a single pvc before and it's my first time ever working with pvc.
 
Highly suggest placing the UV in a position easily accessible to open to remove and replace bulb without disconnecting from pvc system. I love our Pentair UV sterilizers, but I would never put them in a cabinet upright if we could not remove the bulbs from the housing easily. Servicing is easier with easier access especially for lazy reefers like myself. Pentairs can be turned if space is tight. We have ours positioned so we can literally open it up to service without cutting flow and without taking apart the plumbing. BRS has some good videos. There are also brackets to use to suspend and/or secure the sterilizer. Running the Pentair off the main pump and using ball valves is a good way to control flow. We use a ball valve for intake to the UV, and flow it back into sump at the return because that is the way Emperor Aquatics -who originally designed the Pentairs- recommended. But, many folks believe in a closed loop to the tank or plumb like you drew direct back to the tank. Many different schools of thought and depends on how you want to use the UV. We also limit UV time and don’t run 24/7 unless there is a specific issue. Too much of a good thing can cause issues too. You might find your set up limiting to your control for the time of the water in the UV to whatever gph you need to run for the tank return which might not be the most effective way to deal with different issues. Different gph flow rates are needed for algae blooms versus parasite killing versus bacterial blooms etc…. And a tank needs consistent flow and water boxes are designed for specific flow rates. So, depending on what you want and how you want the unit to function, that would effect your plumbing design and placement.
 
Your design looks good, I would make a small change and put the flow meter on the other side of the ball valve, this will give you the option remove and clean it as well. Another consideration to be aware of with the flow meter is having a much straight, uninterrupted pipe before and after it as possible, with the pipe length before the flow meter being more important. Piping changes will throw off the accuracy of the flow meter.
With your design you can use the bypass valve to control how much flow goes through the UV vs straight back to the tank.
I would also recommend moving the check valve to the vertical section of pipe just after the pump discharge and slightly above the water level of the sump when the system is not running.
Finally, I'd recommend using single 90° elbows in place of two 45° elbows.
 
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