Want to build Algae Scrubber

shaned

Member
Supporting
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
Location
Cumming, GA
I recently read an article from another online reef club ...

Phosphate flow out of rocks

Many people, when they get their scrubber running for the first time, get worried when more (not less) algae starts to grow on their rocks. It seems really strange, especially when nitrate and phosphate have gone lower than before. What is happening is that phosphate is coming out of the rocks. Remember, phosphate is invisible, so you can only see the effects of it, and it always "flows" from higher concentrations to lower concentrations (just like heat does).

Example: If your room is warm, and you put a cold object on the floor, heat from the air in the room will "flow" into the object until the object and the air are the same temperature. Example 2: If you put a hot object on the floor, heat will "flow" out of the object and go into the air in the room, again, until the air and the object are the same temperature. Now suppose you open your windows (in the winter). The warm air in your room will go out the windows, and it will get colder in the room. The object on the floor is now warmer than the air, so heat will flow out of the object and into the air, and then out the window.

Think of phosphate as the heat, and your rocks as the object, and your windows as the scrubber. As the scrubber pulls phosphate out of the water, the phosphate level in the water drops. Now, since the phosphate level in the water is lower than the phosphate level in the rocks, phosphate flows from the rocks into the water, and then from the water into the scrubber. This continues until the phosphate levels in the rocks and water are level again. And remember, you can't see this invisible flow.

This flow causes an interesting thing to happen. As the phosphate comes out of the rocks, it then becomes available to feed algae as soon as the phosphate reaches the surface of the rocks where there is light. So, since the surface of the rocks is rough and has light, it starts growing MORE algae there (not less) as the phosphate comes out of the rocks. This is a pretty amazing thing to see for the first time, because if you did not know what was happening you would probably think that the algae in the scrubber was leaking out and attaching to your rocks. Here are the signs of phosphate coming out of the rocks:

1. The rocks are older, and have slowly developed algae problems in the past year.

2. The scrubber is new, maybe only a few months old, and has recently started to grow well.

3. Nitrate and phosphate measurements in the water are low, usually the lowest they have been in a long time.

4. Green hair algae (not brown) on the rocks has increased in certain spots, usually on corners and protrusions at the top.

5. The glass has not needed cleaning as much.


Since skimmers, filter socks, etc don't remove any nitrate and phosphate, and waterchanges and macro's in a fuge don't remove much, most people have never seen the effects of large amounts of phosphate coming out of the rocks quickly. But sure enough, it does. How long does it continue? For 2 months to a year, depending on how much phosphate is in the rocks, how strong your scrubber is, and how many other phosphate-removing filters you have (GFO, carbon dosing, etc). But one day you will see patches of white rock that were covered in green hair the day before; this is a sure sign that the algae are losing their phosphate supply from the rocks and can no longer hold on. Now it's just a matter of days before the rocks are clear.
------------------

My question from Shane (ARC member) now ...
I have a question about building an algae scrubber please. Would a black aluminum based wire mesh screen (like for windows) work OK for this purpose? Not sure how aluminum would react with salt water. I'd also like to know where to buy turf screen or something made of plastic if possible. I have a large 200+ gal RR tank but my nitrates and phosphates are high now and I cannot determine the source. I've reduced my feeding, I have a large skimmer and sump, calcium reactor, bio pellets in a separate reactor (to hopefully reduce phosphates/nitrates) and a large eheim canister filter with carbon and de-nitrate rocks/media. I feel like I have a mad scientist lab with all the wires, pumps, reactors, etc and I'm very disappointed with the results. I also have a 5 stage RODI filter and mix with Seachem Salinity salt with 40 gal water changes every month (approx.).

Fish are doing OK but my corals look terrible .. nems are shriveled to almost nothing .. green star polyps died .. leather coral is dying .. etc.

I may try to build an algae scrubber next to help remove phosphates (maybe in my rock?) and see if this helps.

Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Shane D.​
 
Excellent write up and example. I like to use food coloring as an example instead of heat but same principle. If you were to dump food coloring in a tank full of sponges, how many water changes would it take before the food coloring was completely extracted from the sponge? The trick is to watch your Phosphate level, it's easy to remove it from the water column but takes a long time t slowly extract it from the rock. I could put GFO on a tank with high levels and have the level drop to zero in hours but then the rock begins to leach via osmosis back in to the water and levels are high again. Slow and consistent is the key...
 
User plastic mesh for the screen if you build one. You can get it at Michaels, Hobby Lobby and some Walmarts in their craft section.
 
Thanks for these comments and suggestions. I hope to get my algae scrubber setup this weekend and I'm looking for all the parts this week. Just too busy working FT to do this at night during the week!

Shane
 
I think I still have one that I build before, need to check, I can give it to you if you want it.

About the write up, Idk, if a source of Po4 is never determinated, then the chain will continue no matter what we do trying eradicated. If it was proven what the post says about it would have to go trough more factors during the process and use of the turf scrubber, as if the tank started new and how mature is, old rock or bleached/ acid bath used when setting up the tank first time, pollutants in the tank and population of the tank, photo period and the age of the bulbs, so many other factors will play an important roll on succeeding with a scrubber, IMHO.

Status: quo
 
Algae scrubbers are not a magic bullet, as some proponents of the devices would have you think, referring to the RC poster Santa Monica. They operate on the same principle as growing and harvesting macroalgae, like cheato. They are just another method of nutrient control. I don't know if he is the one you quoted, but do remember that he makes and sells these things.

I built one and my water clarity suffered. May or may not be your experience. I just found it easier to use GFO, personally.

Before you go through all that trouble, can you take a piece of your rock and put it in a small bucket or tank with some fresh SW you have tested for phosphate, then let it sit in there with some circulation, then retest after a few days to see if your rock is even the cause in the first place? Might save some time and effort, unless you just want to try an algae scrubber. I did it myself because I wanted to, not to try to combat any water issues, and I have a thread somewhere on here about it with pictures, etc.

Overall, I took it down because IMO it was just easier to use GFO, less maintenance involved, and nowhere near as messy as cleaning screens. And as I mentioned earlier, my water clarity went down slightly, and I did not like that one bit, as the tank had SPS in it.
 
If your nitrates are high, phosphate coming out of the rocks is not your problem, or your only problem. Look for the source of nitrates, and you'll probably find the source of phosphates since most organics have them in a certain ratio. Biopellets and a good sized skimmer should be pulling your nitrates way down. How much are you feeding?

I have seen the effect of a huge algae bloom early on in a tank's life a couple times now. Not sure I agree with the analysis of it being phosphate coming out of the rocks, but it could be.

All that said, I've had very successful algae scrubbers in the past, and a well built one can pull out huge amounts of N and P, so if you feel like building one, go ahead and give it a try. I'd recommend a two sided vertical waterfall style scrubber built to handle 4-6 "cubes" of food a day. I wouldn't go with an upflow style as they are still "experimental" whereas the vertical ones are pretty well proven. If you want to buy one, I'd go with Turbos Aquatics L4.
 
Joseayes,

Please let me know more details on your algae scrubber design, size, etc. I'd like to drop by this weekend and take a look at it in person if possible.

Thanks,
Shane D.


joseayes;940482 wrote: I think I still have one that I build before, need to check, I can give it to you if you want it.

About the write up, Idk, if a source of Po4 is never determinated, then the chain will continue no matter what we do trying eradicated. If it was proven what the post says about it would have to go trough more factors during the process and use of the turf scrubber, as if the tank started new and how mature is, old rock or bleached/ acid bath used when setting up the tank first time, pollutants in the tank and population of the tank, photo period and the age of the bulbs, so many other factors will play an important roll on succeeding with a scrubber, IMHO.

Status: quo
 
My copy of another post was from Santa Monica who sells these but I'd rather build one myself to save money. I'm not sure this will help my phosphate and nitrate issues but I guess it's worth a try.

Can you tell me more about GFO vs Algea Scrubber? I have a biopellet reactor now running .. would I just change the media to GFO? How much should I start with, etc? My tank is about 200 gal with lots of live rock, about 20 small fish, SPS corals, etc.

Also, I like the idea of testing some rock too. Would dipping the rock in Coral RX solution help remove the phosphate too? My rocks look like they have dust on them and hopefully blowing the rocks off in clean SW may help too. My tank is about 8 yrs old.

I've considered changing the original sand too since it may be a cause of high N and P?

I enjoy this hobby but it's expensive and with the MANY items I've added it's just too complicated now and my results are still very poor. I'm just about ready to give up and take it all down soon!
For example, a friend gave me some leather coral which died in about 3 days .. I also bought a large piece of GSP from an ARC member and it's now dead after a few weeks.

Again, thanks for your advice, suggestions and comments!

Sincerely grateful,
Shane D.



Acroholic;940492 wrote: Algae scrubbers are not a magic bullet, as some proponents of the devices would have you think, referring to the RC poster Santa Monica. They operate on the same principle as growing and harvesting macroalgae, like cheato. They are just another method of nutrient control. I don't know if he is the one you quoted, but do remember that he makes and sells these things.

I built one and my water clarity suffered. May or may not be your experience. I just found it easier to use GFO, personally.

Before you go through all that trouble, can you take a piece of your rock and put it in a small bucket or tank with some fresh SW you have tested for phosphate, then let it sit in there with some circulation, then retest after a few days to see if your rock is even the cause in the first place? Might save some time and effort, unless you just want to try an algae scrubber. I did it myself because I wanted to, not to try to combat any water issues, and I have a thread somewhere on here about it with pictures, etc.

Overall, I took it down because IMO it was just easier to use GFO, less maintenance involved, and nowhere near as messy as cleaning screens. And as I mentioned earlier, my water clarity went down slightly, and I did not like that one bit, as the tank had SPS in it.
 
shaned;940526 wrote:
My rocks look like they have dust on them and hopefully blowing the rocks off in clean SW may help too. My tank is about 8 yrs old.

This sounds like the problem right here. Blowing off your rocks should be a part of regular maintenance at water change time. Accumulated detrius is going to be problematic.
 
MorganAtlanta;940535 wrote: If you are killing leathers and GSP, you have something seriously wrong going on...
^ This....you have something far more serious than high phosphates going on. High PO4 would not kill a leather in 3 days. Look elsewhere for you problem.

You have leathers dying, but you also have SPS? How are they doing?

To your earlier question. GFO is Granular Ferric Oxide. It binds phosphates to it's surface and you lightlty tumble it in a reactor like you would biopellets.
 
Building a scrubber is great. I enjoyed my build, but personally, I would address your tank issues that are killing your corals before putting the time, expense, etc into an algae scrubber.

You would be best served that way, IMO.
 
I plan to blow off rocks this weekend to see if it helps. Something terribly wrong here but I cannot determine the real issue. My only small corals are frogspawn, red mushrooms, tiny nems and a large carpet nem on the bottom. All other corals have died.

Is it possible to ask some EXPERT (or at least someone with more experience than myself) to visit my home in Cumming this weekend for a quick technical review of my setup? I'll pay someone if necessary to help resolve these problems. I'm just tired of trying almost EVERYTHING to fix these problems.

BTW .. blowing off rocks as part of regular maintenance??? In my case this would take several HOURS and it makes a big mess too. Taking rocks out of my tank, blowing them off with fresh saltwater or Coral RX, re-stacking the rocks .. I certainly cannot do this as often as I make water changes .. that would take entirely too much time and money on my limited budget. I'm willing to devote most of the day Saturday to this project so if anyone is interested I'm available this weekend to chat .. I live in Cumming close to Lake Lanier.

Thanks again,
Shane Draper


Ringo®;940537 wrote: This sounds like the problem right here. Blowing off your rocks should be a part of regular maintenance at water change time. Accumulated detrius is going to be problematic.
 
I think he means blow your rocks off with a powerhead or turkey baster in the tank before you do a water change. That way you suck the detritus out regularly so it doesn't accumulate.

I'm no expert, and I'm out of town this weekend.
 
If your corals are dying, but not your fish, could your salinity be off? Is whatever you are using to measure it out of calibration? I had two swing arm hydrometers- one read 4 points low and one read 4 points high. About drove me nuts before I figured it out. In any case, you may want to take some water to a good fish store and have it tested.
 
I'm using a Kent 5 stage RODI filter that measures 0 TDS on the output side. I mix about 40 gal fresh RODI water with Seachem Salinity salt and I measure it with a nice hydrometer scope like device. Doesn't hurt to double check it at my local LFS (Pure Reef) which I'll likely visit this weekend.

Thanks for the suggestion!
Shane



MorganAtlanta;940710 wrote: If your corals are dying, but not your fish, could your salinity be off? Is whatever you are using to measure it out of calibration? I had two swing arm hydrometers- one read 4 points low and one read 4 points high. About drove me nuts before I figured it out. In any case, you may want to take some water to a good fish store and have it tested.
 
Back
Top