What do you have?

[georgiasunflower]

Since I am trying to decide what the best filtration system is for me, I am curious to know how most of you do it. Do you have hang-on filters, Canister filters, internal filters, etc, or do you simply have a fuge/sump system?

IF you have the sump system then is your tank Drilled? I am scared to high heaven to have a sump since my tank is not drilled and the only kind of overflow I could have is on the back. I have had one semi-serious flood with my fluval (my fault not the filter's) and it scares me to death to consider risking another.

I am really interested to know how most of you handle the over flow issues. Given that I am new to this you may have already had this discussion long ago. If so, could you point me to the thread?

Thank you lots for the help!

 

[glxtrix]

sump for me. I run a drilled BB tank so there is nothing in it other than water. Got a nice skimmer (recirculated) and thats all I use. Before I ran a non-drilled tank with a HOB. They arent that scarey, and never had an issue. IMO best ones out there are the CPR's with the aqua lifter. That way if the power goes out, the aqua lifter is there to make sure the syphon restarts properly everytime when the power comes back on. i think you can implement the aqualifter on any overflow, with a lil bit of DIY work that is. Its all a gambeling game....just because you run a drilled tank doesnt mean your tank will never overflow. You get that durso clogged and youre screwed!

 

[jetchris]

SUmp seems to be the way to go. I have a 20g sump 10g fuge and an external skimmer. Sumps are great because they hide all the mess and it adds to your water volume, which is always good. I could drill your tank for you, just find out if it is tempered - you will have to call and ask the company. If there is water in it i could drill it as well.

 

[georgiasunflower]

chrisjet;111250 wrote: SUmp seems to be the way to go. I have a 20g sump 10g fuge and an external skimmer. Sumps are great because they hide all the mess and it adds to your water volume, which is always good. I could drill your tank for you, just find out if it is tempered - you will have to call and ask the company. If there is water in it i could drill it as well.

WOW Chris that is an amazingly kind</em> offer. Truly! I am not sure how you would do that? With the water still in it??? But then again I don't know how my car works either, and I can live with that LOL as long as it works. Man I am tempted. Let me look into this some more. What is your favorite beer?? LOL

Seriously though my tank is in my home office. Of course it sits on Carpet and the minor flood I did have scared the hell out of me. IF I do go with a sump the only way I could do it is if the tank is drilled. I just can't sleep wondering is the overflow overflowing??? LOL I wish so much that I had understood and learned more about them before I bought my tank. I would have gotten one pre-drilled.

Thank you so much for the really incredible offer!

 

[dakota9]

I have a sump, but would trade it in a heartbeat to go back to a magnum 350. My water was so much clearer, and I ran my UV on the intake of the canister, and the hydor inline heater on the return line from the canister. It was a wonderful, simplistic setup and handled my 30 gallon wonderfully with one extra powerhead in the tank.

Try a Magnum, I just threw out my first magnum..... It was 20+ years old and still the motor ran smooth. They are a pain to change filters, but they keep your tank the cleanest you'll get.

 

[mojo]

glxtrix;111248 wrote: just because you run a drilled tank doesnt mean your tank will never overflow. You get that durso clogged and youre screwed!

Or use a secondary pipe in the overflow that's taller than the others for emergency overflow - I have this for mine - a 2" pipe that stands a little taller than my main 1.5" durso. This doens't completely eliminate the chance of a tank overflow, but does cut your chances to almost nil.

Dakota9;111321 wrote: Try a Magnum, I just threw out my first magnum.....

Then there'd be two people in the world using canister filters on reef tanks...

 

[jetchris]

Basically, you just lower the water level about 5 or 6". I drill while you continuously spray water on my diamond bit "you would use a conventional spay bottle". Very little glass particles get in the tank. If you do decide you wanna do this - you must have everything on hand IE sump, pvc plumbing, Durso, return pump etc. If you want i can come take a look and tell you what all you need. Kinda like a consultation LOL.

 

[georgiasunflower]

Dakota9;111321 wrote: Try a Magnum, I just threw out my first magnum..... It was 20+ years old and still the motor ran smooth. They are a pain to change filters, but they keep your tank the cleanest you'll get.

I called the Fluval Customer Support this morning and though they were very helpful, they suggested I need to clean my filter every four weeks! WHAT? It is a PAIN taking it apart. EVERYTIME I freak and worry that I am going to have a flood LOL. I hate it. Our old fresh water tank had the hang over the side type. I know they are not "acceptable" by many member's standards but dang I would rather change the filters every four weeks on those than deal with a fluval that often! Honestly that just does not sound reasonable to me. Anyway that is what prompted this search for me. I just want to enjoy this tank at some point. LOL

 

[dakota9]

Then there'd be two people in the world using canister filters on reef tanks... [/QUOTE]



And those two would have cleanest reefs out there!:shout:

 

[georgiasunflower]

chrisjet;111329 wrote: Basically, you just lower the water level about 5 or 6". I drill while you continuously spray water on my diamond bit "you would use a conventional spay bottle". Very little glass particles get in the tank. If you do decide you wanna do this - you must have everything on hand IE sump, pvc plumbing, Durso, return pump etc. If you want i can come take a look and tell you what all you need. Kinda like a consultation LOL.

Thank you Chris - REALLY! One thing I need to start doing though is research lol. Clearly had I done more before this would not be an issue now. I do know that if I decide to do it, you'll be the man! Thank you.

 

[georgiasunflower]

Dakota9;111336 wrote: Then there'd be two people in the world using canister filters on reef tanks...

And those two would have cleanest reefs out there!:shout:[/QUOTE]

OK LOL everyone has a preference - Dakota you and I are always the rebels. Old folks that we are, can't teach us new tricks

 

[dakota9]

Yeah, agreed, but theres no harm in using a canister. The big argument for </em>a sump is oxygenation, while not once ever have I had a fish to die from lack of oxygen while using a canister. They arent very practical on large systems, but can't be beat on smaller ones.
Michele, I would definately change the filter more often. I've never had the nitrite build up problem that supposedly happens with dirty filters because I've always changed the filters very regularly. I big help to this is have a second set of fiter media and changing cartridges. That way, you take the canister apart, take out the dirty media, pop in the clean media and clean the dirty media at you leisure. I generally just let it soak in a bucket of bleach water for a day or so. Clean the stuff that is dirty, and you're ready for the next time. Every two weeks is a liveable schedule for me.

A PITA is always wondering if you are going to come home with water on the floor due to a snail or algae covering the return's anti-syphon hole during a power outage, or the plumbing spring a leak. All the tank leaks and floods I've read about online has never been because of a canister filter.

 

[ericmcj31]

Michelle,

I had chris drill my tanks a few weeks ago; I, too, like you was VERY nervous--you can't imagine how nervous I was--we also have carpeted flooring, and I knew if a major leak/flood happened, I would be really really in trouble as far as the flooring goes--but--here are a few tricks--first, make sure your sump is big enough to support a power outage--I test this by having a "fake" outagae--in that I just turn off power to the tank (but be ready to turn it back on if your tank is too full or sump is too small, and watch sump as it fills up, I know this could be a pain if you've already bought your sump, but I guess what I'm getting at is make sure you get as big of a sump as possible that will fit under your tank. The other thing, when chris was drilling my tanks, we drained about 30 gallons out of each tank, then I sprayed water on his drill bits while he drilled, I put a BUNCH of towels in the floor to prevent my carpet from being soaked--everything worked out fine. Now, if I can get my pump rate together with my drainage rate, I'll be in business!! good luck

 

[jcusmarine]

 

[georgiasunflower]

jcusmarine;111451 wrote: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+3587+16747&pcatid=16747">http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+3587+16747&pcatid=16747</a>[/QUOTE]


That is really cool - THANKS!

 

[mwitten]

georgiasunflower;111244 wrote: Since I am trying to decide what the best filtration system is for me, I am curious to know how most of you do it. Do you have hang-on filters, Canister filters, internal filters, etc, or do you simply have a fuge/sump system?

IF you have the sump system then is your tank Drilled? I am scared to high heaven to have a sump since my tank is not drilled and the only kind of overflow I could have is on the back. I have had one semi-serious flood with my fluval (my fault not the filter's) and it scares me to death to consider risking another.

I am really interested to know how most of you handle the over flow issues. Given that I am new to this you may have already had this discussion long ago. If so, could you point me to the thread?

Thank you lots for the help!

OK...

I have a tank with built in overflows (a 120)
I have a basement sump: 100g Stock Tank.
Tons of live rock in sump and in main tank.
DSB in main tank.
Deltec AP702 skimmer

Small canister (was an eheim 2?13 until this weekend, when I broke the impeller shaft) running carbon. I change it 1/month, about. I have a new cannister, somewhat larger, that is running now. It has both carbon and GFO.

GFO reactor (backing off on this with new cannister)
20Gallon fuge balanced on the edge of my sump.
Bucket fuge

For completeness, I also use a CA reactor, dose Kalk and Baking Soda, and change out about 60 gallons/month with a continuous water change system. All of that goes into the sump and is well mixed in before returning to the tank (another advantage to a sump).

All filtration (except rock and sandbed) is in the sump.

This system was also being shared by my 58, but I finally tore that down, so it is, well, kind of overkill for a 120.

I have drilled quite a few holes tanks, even one with water in it once (and water over the hole-I don't recommend that-it was kind of an emergency). As long as your tank is not tempered glass, it is not bad at all with the right drill and care.


-Mike

 

[cameron]

Dakota9;111350 wrote: Yeah, agreed, but theres no harm in using a canister. The big argument for </em>a sump is oxygenation, while not once ever have I had a fish to die from lack of oxygen while using a canister.

I am not sure a sump contributes greatly to gas exchange (depending on the size of the sump). It does give more surface area which is where the vast majority of gas exchange in a tank happens, but the surface area of the main tank with proper flow will easily sustain a tank indefinitely. The main advantage to a sump IMO is the ability to remove components such as heaters from the main display. It also gives a great area to run skimmers and opens up more options in skimmer selection.

 

[schwaggs]

I think you can be very successful with a 90 without a sump. The main reason I think most people need a sump is to have enough room for and/or to plumb in a decent skimmer. You can get adequate "hang-on" skimmers for a typical 90... Why add the complexity if you don't need it?