What pump for my ATO/Kalk (or JBJ Mod)

[derek_s]

Ok, story:

I have a 140 gal, 40 gal sump

I have a JBJ ATO that tops off through a deltec kalk reactor with an Aqua Via pump that I think is 150ish GPH.

THe problem is that the JBJ ATO has some kind of failsafe that when it is activated, it will only run the top off pump for about 30 seconds and then it cuts off. So, if it cannot refill the ato chamber to re-activate the float sensor in that amount of time, if simply will not keep up on evaporation.

I have 2 options either change the pump to pump faster, or mod the JBJ to run longer.

I have tried several pumps on the ATO, including an Aqua Medic peristaltic, a MJ 900, and the Via Aqua. None work too well, since they have to pump through a airline tube (3/32"???) and through a check valve built into the deltec. Lots of pressure, and designed for low flowrate.

The best option is simply mod the JBJ to run longer. But has anyone done this or know how?

 

[tdwyatt]

An alternative is to use a maxijet 400, but you will need some sort of backup fail-safe to cut off the pump if the level in the sump gets too high (float valve set to cut off rather than cut on as the level rises). The only problem with this is that the maxijet will last about 6 months in the kalk solution, especially if it is immersed in the precipitate in the bottom of the kalk reservoir. It helps to put the pump about 5 cm off the bottom of the reservoir, but even then the lifespan of the maxijet is reduced. This may not be much of an issue considering that you cn replace these pumps for about $15 USD.

I use the aquamedic peristaltic pump for small systems (a quarantine and hospital tank ~40 USG plus sump) where I mix kalk in a IO bucket and suction cup the maxijet to the side of the bucket, then control the pump with a “on” float switch in the sump and an “off “ fail-safe directly above the “on” to prevent flooding of the system with kalkwasser.

Dunno know about modding the pump you have, lthough you could add another Auamedic to double your delivery rate.

HTH

 

[glxtrix]

I recently did something different with my kalk additions. I have a mj or ac pump in my sump pumping water to my diy kalk bottle all the time...the drip is set a little more than my CA reactor drip, I have the pump hooked into my RK so when the pH gets to 8.4, it cuts off the pump stopping the kalk drip...and it turns back on once the pH drops below 8.2. I use to have my top off water going straight into the kalk reactor, but I found out that over time my pH was raising too much and then I had a pH issue in my tank (8.7+) Things seem to be working well with this current setup.

 

[derek_s]

Lee, so you circulated salt water from the sump, through your kalk to keep the ph up? And then just top off with regular RODI on a seperate system?

That sounds too</em> good to be true.

I have my aquacontroller set up to disable if the ph ever reaches &gt;8.3, but it always stays between 7.8 and 8.0, so it never is disabled.

 

[glxtrix]

yup, that's what I have going on....now I don't know if the kalk stays at it's proper pH levels with saltwater being recirced thu it....I always ran my freshwater top off thu it....guess I'll have to check the effluent.

 

[derek_s]

Sounds like an awesome idea, but why has no one thought of it before?

Sounds like the only risk is failure and kalk-nuking your tank, but that can happen with the ATO as well, just without the flooding and salinity swing.

 

[glxtrix]

There would be no failure here, thats why I have it on the controller to shut off the pump if pH is too high. Only thing I can think of is the saltwater will reduce the potency of the kalk unlike what RO does. I had it running thu the top off, and thats what caused my issues...tank evaped more, so more kalk would go into the tank....this new way (if the pH stays high) I can control it better through a slower rate drip than what I could with the top off drip/addition.

 

[derek_s]

By failure I meant contoller or PH probe failure, but you're right, chances are low.

I like that idea. Plus your kalk addition is somewhat more constant, thus not being affected by evap. rate. Genious.

 

[glxtrix]

yes true there is always possibility of failure on the controller....but a good thing about that is if you dial it in right (the drip) you "should" be able to stay at a somewhat constant rate...at least during the day, it's obviously going to drop slightly at night. I need to get a pH test and see if there is a diff of it running through saltwater vs fresh. Perhaps I'll just keep my eyes on the read out, I'm not going to but a pH test, lol.