what to do with my sump issues

eagle9252 · Jul 12, 2012

Well guy’s it’s my turn to ask for your help. I have searched for directions on what to do with my sump issues. In the last couple of days I think I have LQQKed at more sump pics than I LQQKed at when I built my first couple. 

Here is my problem. I need to reduce the heat in the tank and I think I need some increased flow in the sump. I need to fix this part in order for me to finish closing up the sump area. 

I have a 55 sump tank (48wx13dx20h) that flows right to left. It has three 1-1/2 drain pipes from the BA, a RO150 PS and a mag7 reactor pump in the right side, a fuge in the middle and a mag 9.5 return pump on 1” in the left side. I have even branched off of the reactor line and coiled up say 20’ of ¼” tube and mounted in to the front of a fan sort of like a heat exchanger. 

The water flow in the right side LQQKs dead with no movement. It just does not flow anything like it did when I had the 75g on a 38sump. I have an external pump that I have but never used. I could remove the need for the mag7 reactor pump and branch it off of the external pump which is bigger anyway. So with removing 2 internal pumps this should reduce some of the heat. 

But here is my problem. I can only put the external pump on the right side. This is the same side the drains go in. My tank is a peninsula style tank so I can’t just move the pipes around. I had thought about putting an internal wall in the sump and flowing the water around in the direction I wanted but it’s only 13” deep. It could be done but would reduce the foot print in the PS and fuge area. 

What I could do is do the baffles out of Lexan and drill them at the bottom all on one side. Drill for a 1” bulkhead through the glass and use a 1” mpt x 1-1/2 soc adapter to run 1-1/2 pvc through the baffles to the return side of the sump. Or I could do a box all the way across the bottom and notch out the glass to fit around it. I think the drilled baffles would be easier. I would have to seal most of it with silicone either anyway I went. 

What says you?

alt="" />

alt="" />

jj ocean · Jul 12, 2012

If your goal is to reduce heat in the tank – what I see as your #1 issue is the internal mag pumps. They put a tremendous amount of heat into the tank. Outside of lighting, they have been the #2 culprit in tank heat in my applications. When I used to use mag pumps to mix my salt I didn’t even have to add a heater in the winter to get the temp up – the mag did it all by itself. I’d go external with a manifold to drive your accessories – put the heat in the air. Not bashing the mags, but if you have heat issues and you are running 2 of them in a 55g sump that would be the first place I’d start.

The other item from looking at the pic is the fuge lighting. If you have heat problems utilize a reverse photo period from you tank lights, so you don’t spike your heat during the day … spread it out.

Obviously, a fan for some evaporate cooling on the sump would help too.

eagle9252 · Jul 12, 2012

yeap, the light was on for the pic. I run CFL 65k from 11:30pm to about 9am and the MM LEDS blues come on about 3:30pm and whites about 4:30pm and bl off at 10:30pm and wht of at 11:30p.

i have two 4" fans on thermostat and one stays on 24/7 exhausting heat from the fully enclosed canopy. have a 4" fan and the 6" with the 1/4" tubing on it blowing on the sump 24/7. i went from 3/4 gal evap/day to about 3 - 4g/day.

thats why i want to move to extrenal to remove some heat. atleast i know i'm on the right track.

jef4y · Jul 12, 2012

If you just need circulation in the sump/fuge, add a small koralia pump. They give off VERY little heat and are cheap. That's a quick solution.

what to do with my sump issues

eagle9252

Active Member

jj ocean

Member

eagle9252

Active Member

jef4y

Active Member

Similar threads