Where should I put the tank on my support beam?

spiderman097

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Hello all,
I've re-inforced my support beam to for my new 180g. The footprint is 6 feet by 2 feet. What's the best method of placing the tank onto my support beam?



1. With the front face on the beam
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2. With the beam in the center of the tank, but both faces hanging off the tank.
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Should make very little difference since the floor and sub floor distributes the weight over a much broader area than the area of the beam .
 
grouper therapy;1093143 wrote: Should make very little difference since the floor and sub floor distributes the weight over a much broader area than the area of the beam .

+1 Put it in which ever position it will look best and be most convenient.
 
It really depends on more than just the support beam. Assuming the joists are perpendicular to the support beam ( and tank) and that the beam with supports is sufficient, I would say anywhere with at least a part of the tank over the support beam is fine.

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SaltWaterWannabe;1093152 wrote: It really depends on more than just the support beam. Assuming the joists are perpendicular to the support beam ( and tank) and that the beam with supports is sufficient, I would say anywhere with at least a part of the tank over the support beam is fine.

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If the beam alone will support the load then I assume the joist direction is irrelevant. Yes?
 
grouper therapy;1093154 wrote: If the beam alone will support the load then I assume the joist direction is irrelevant. Yes?

Well, since you asked....:shades:

Everything below is assuming the joists and beam are parallel with each other.

Assuming the sketch is "to scale" with the beam being over half as wide as the tank and the beam actually is strong enough, then it may be fine. I am guessing the beam is not as wide as drawn and that much of the load could be carried by an adjacent joist if they are running parallel to each other. If the question must be asked how to situate the tank on the beam, my instinct asks if the beam is actually designed for the load. I only say this because I am a bit (insert word here) about making sure my own house and future 180 tank do not break due to structural failure or deflection in the floor. I also know how to actually calculate the loads, stress, deflections, etc... without relying on span tables or hearsay, so it makes my above referenced condition even more acute:D Since I do not even have a large tank....most people would stop reading here and I would not blame them;)

The 180 gallon tank, stand, sump, water, rock, canopy, etc... will likely be somewhere between 1 to 1.5 tons so it is no small load and standard house floor systems are not designed for this type of loading. A typical factor of safety of 1.2, could place the entire weight for design closer to 2 tons - although that is likely a conservative number.

If <u>any </u>part of the 1 to 2 ton load is between structural members, some portion of the load <u>will </u>be transferred to each adjacent structural member - whether it is a beam or the next joist - there is simply no changing this without some crafty engineering and significant expense... or some unknown scientific discovery that contradicts the basic laws of physics:D

All subfloors are typically strong enough for the job they are intended for, but they do not place the load entirely on the beam in the cases drawn below. A subfloor transfers the load applied to the adjacent structural members, ie: 2 joists, a joist and a beam, etc. In almost every case reasonably conceived, the subfloor will do the job of transferring the load to the structural member - the exception typically being a point load such as putting the tank on four legs that do not spread the load across the subfloor in any manner, thus resulting in a punching force through the subfloor. I have yet to see a tank stand for anything over a 55 gallon built with the load applied at only 4 points except some commercial systems that are on concrete slabs...of course I still have a lot to see in life, so I may yet see one.

Most large tank stands I have seen place all the load down the sides, back, and front of the strand. This means that the load is not actually distributed across the floor identical to the way the weight is distributed in the tank bottom. Therefore, a little less than half of the tank weight is carried under the back wall of the stand, same for the front, and a little at the ends ... depending on how the stand is built. Some stands I have seen carry all of the load at the ends or have other vertical support walls within the stand. The bottoms in the large tank stands I have looked at do not distribute the load evenly across the subfloor but often times do distribute the sump weight evenly if there is not a raised floor in the stand.

This is really diving deep here but there is a point:huh:

The point is that roughly half the load <u>could </u>be between the beam and the next adjacent structural member - IE a standard joist. If that next structural member is supported by a structural wall (IE most exterior walls), then there is likely no further need for reading and the tank will be fine as long as the beam system is strong enough (and the foundation under the structural wall is strong enough, which I suspect is most likely)....if not, keep reading on.

Basically, the distance the tank overhangs the beam divided by the distance from the beam edge to the next support member times a little less than half the total system weight (assuming it is parallel) will likely be what the next support member carries - depending upon the stand and other factors. If the next adjacent member is a standard joist, it may not be up to the task and may deflect a lot more than the beam.

Whew...that was a lot.

If you have read this far, you now understand my (insert word here) condition mentioned above;) I hope you enjoyed it either way and fully expect some will disagree based on their years of experience having large tanks. Experience is worth a lot. I would also expect there have been tanks sitting in conditions similar to the options in the pictures without issue for many years. I also suspect that some of the tank leaks and seam failures we hear about are due to floor systems unable to support the load properly.

That is a lot said....remember that I have a very acute condition ;) so take the info or leave it, it is up to the reader to decide.:D

...Just in case anyone is asking, I am not intending to challenge anyone, just tossing out my lengthy two cents in an attempt to explain my point. I am sure there are many points of view on this. Remember that I am relatively new to saltwater and therefore have a relatively new interest in large tanks. I sold a 180 without setting it up since adding the support beams was going to make the setup yet another project to be delayed indefinitely...which I have too many of already:) If considering experience with large tanks, my signature below says it all...
 
The weight /load you mentioned also increases drastically when several people are in the room as well ,such as during a party. The entire floor system assumes some of the load. Ive seen floor systems hold the tank but deflected drastically as well. Point loads are tricky and sadly due to poor stand design and/or installation are created when they need not be. Over the years I have had to modify floor systems to accommodate the load and lift that free standing curve stairs place on them. It got crazy sometimes with the inside radius pulling up on the system and and the outside pushing down at a different load. Some of the structural guys came back with x3 safety factors which meant they did not know either so in the end we just relied on practical application and went for it. Of course it was a trial and error process for a few stairs.
 
Live load for residential construction set at the minimum code requirement pf 40 pounds per square foot with a 1.2 factor of safety. Dead load is 10 pounds per square foot. This is the design in almost all residential construction. There are cases where a joist may be shorter than the allowable span. This usually arises where the joists are set to the longest span in the house so shorter spans can carry a little more load than the minimum code. Walls and other loads are transferred through the floor as well. I would expect pretty much any structural engineer or architect would suggest having an actual design by a professional to verify the load of a 180 gallon tank can be safely supported.

I fully agree that it is also relatively commonplace for builders to experiment and find something that works based on years of experience. I just do not want to experiment with a ton of water, glass, and fish on my floor.

If the beam is well sized and the rest of the load not on the beam is well supported then it could be fine.

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Cliffs of thread.

You're fine either way and Dan knows too much to not worry about it.
 
I think there's a few questions that need answers before one can give any recommendations.

OP hasn't stated which way the floor joists run in relation to the "Beam". Was it just one joist that was reinforced, or a beam spanning across multiple joists? If it was just a single reinforced joist is the wall behind the tank an exterior wall or one that is load bearing?
 
anit77;1093187 wrote: I think there's a few questions that need answers before one can give any recommendations.

OP hasn't stated which way the floor joists run in relation to the "Beam". Was it just one joist that was reinforced, or a beam spanning across multiple joists? If it was just a single reinforced joist is the wall behind the tank an exterior wall or one that is load bearing?


The wall behind the tank is an exterior wall. Only 1 joist was reinforced, it is not a beam spanning multiple joists. The joists all run parallel to the tank. The tank will be on the reinforced joist, and not on any other joist.
 
Then if that joist is supported enough, only you would know that based on what you given us, then I would put the tank closer to the wall and not worry about where it is exactly over the reinforced joist. As long as part of the front is partially over it you will be good.

If you don't know that the joist is supported enough then I'd have an engineer take a look. The couple hundred bucks now will be well worth it later.
 
anit77;1093200 wrote: then if that joist is supported enough, only you would know that based on what you given us, then i would put the tank closer to the wall and not worry about where it is exactly over the reinforced joist. As long as part of the front is partially over it you will be good.

If you don't know that the joist is supported enough then i'd have an engineer take a look. The couple hundred bucks now will be well worth it later.

+1
 
SaltWaterWannabe;1093170 wrote: Live load for residential construction set at the minimum code requirement pf 40 pounds per square foot with a 1.2 factor of safety. Dead load is 10 pounds per square foot. This is the design in almost all residential construction. There are cases where a joist may be shorter than the allowable span. This usually arises where the joists are set to the longest span in the house so shorter spans can carry a little more load than the minimum code. Walls and other loads are transferred through the floor as well. I would expect pretty much any structural engineer or architect would suggest having an actual design by a professional to verify the load of a 180 gallon tank can be safely supported.

I fully agree that it is also relatively commonplace for builders to experiment and find something that works based on years of experience. I just do not want to experiment with a ton of water, glass, and fish on my floor.

If the beam is well sized and the rest of the load not on the beam is well supported then it could be fine.

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I don't agree, most are using companies that have design programs that design floors to the specs you mentioned above as well as other loads such as bathrooms with large bath tubs and such. Just not many familiar with freestanding staircases. What most don't realize is the loads quoted are referring to what the floor should handle per square foot over the entire floor. 200 square foot room should handle a load of 8000 lbs evenly distributed. That is a lot of weight. While the beam may carry most of the load the load is still distributed over several joist.

But I do agree if one lacks the experience it is much better to have it engineered and then overbuild that recommendation.:)
 
anit77;1093200 wrote: Then if that joist is supported enough, only you would know that based on what you given us, then I would put the tank closer to the wall and not worry about where it is exactly over the reinforced joist. As long as part of the front is partially over it you will be good.

If you don't know that the joist is supported enough then I'd have an engineer take a look. The couple hundred bucks now will be well worth it later.

Hey all, I did have a flooring specialist come out and reinforce the floor. He installed 2 sister joists and a jack on top of a concrete slab. I'm pretty confident in the joist, was just wondering if the placement had anything to do with it.

Thank you all
 
That is good to hear about the jack and sister joists. The supported beam with a jack in the middle will deflect much differently than an adjacent unsupported joist. ( high point at jack, low point on unsupported joist). I would put the face of the stand over the face of the supported joist in this case. The concern I have aboit the high point at the jack could be offset by a stout stand. Essentially, it could create a little of a seesaw effect if everything above the floor was completely rigid. The only concern is that the floor, stand and even the tank will deflect over time untill everything settles. I do not know how much force the glass can withstand with a force through the middle of the glass.

If you want to move the tank from the wall, I would put a header under the joists to the first joist past where you want the tank. Without looking at it, there are a couple options, but ideally you would be able to put one end of the header on the support wall and the other on the jack. If you did this, you could move the tank anywhere over the supported joists as long as header was under the middle third of the stand. This would address the stress in the joists but could still leave potential deflection issues with the middle higher than the ends that could transfer stress to your glass. I am not at my pc to check the deflection.

If someone designed the sister joists and jack, I would ask them to give a recomendation assuming they actually have training and structural design.

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spiderman097;1093288 wrote: Hey all, I did have a flooring specialist come out and reinforce the floor. He installed 2 sister joists and a jack on top of a concrete slab. I'm pretty confident in the joist, was just wondering if the placement had anything to do with it.

Thank you all
You'll be fine either way.
Place the tank for plumbing access and aesthetics.
 
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