Which Hanna Checkers to Buy

hiimsean

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With my new tank I'm looking to do things right this time, that means actual testing and I plan on dosing in the future. I've got some old Red Sea test kits and I'm looking to upgrade to Hanna checkers. I'm planning on getting:
High Range Nitrate - 782
Alk - 755

I've been reading conflicting information on which phosphate/phosphourus checker to get, the 774 or the 736. Which one are the majority of you guys using?
 
Not sure the number. But i use a ulr phosphorus then convert to phosphates

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I use ULR phosphate and HR Nitrate. Also just picked up a Salinity tester because I was sick of the refractometer.

Next on my list is Ca and Alk


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I use ULR phosphate and HR Nitrate. Also just picked up a Salinity tester because I was sick of the refractometer.

Next on my list is Ca and Alk


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I would not rely on the salinity tester. Ive had 2 and both were junk. I got one when they first came out and it was pretty much junk out of the box. The second one worked fine for about 8-10 months then went south. I would always keep a calibrated refractometer around just to be safe. I even invested in a lab grade conductivity meter and still double check it to my refractometer
 
HI774 and HI736 both have similar levels of accuracy at the low ranges hobbyists need.
HI774 will be a bit more convenient as you won't need to do a conversion to ppm and because it has a longer period between C1 and C2 before an auto shutoff. HI736 has a tad higher precision due to the units it works in but the accuracy is still about the same.
Neither of these factors is a deal breaker, I use HI736 because the 774 didn't exist when I bought it, otherwise I'd probably own the 774.

TL;DR There isn't a right or wrong choice between the two.
 
HI774 and HI736 both have similar levels of accuracy at the low ranges hobbyists need.
HI774 will be a bit more convenient as you won't need to do a conversion to ppm and because it has a longer period between C1 and C2 before an auto shutoff. HI736 has a tad higher precision due to the units it works in but the accuracy is still about the same.
Neither of these factors is a deal breaker, I use HI736 because the 774 didn't exist when I bought it, otherwise I'd probably own the 774.

TL;DR There isn't a right or wrong choice between the two.
I second this, I own the HI736 but the conversion and 3 min shutoff timer is a pain.

Also @jmorgan315 , I have the same feelings about refractometers, I bought the tropic marin high precision floating hydrometer, I love the ease of use and accuracy of it. Check it out.
 
Alk/HR Nitrate/ULR Phosphate. I did have issues with my initial alkalinity reagent(expiration of mid 2022), it read about 1dkh low. The ULR Phosphate reagents are, at the moment, mostly out of stock.

I have the calcium tester as well, but I haven't really needed to check calcium too often yet (tank isn't too stocked on corals yet).
 
I read the calcium checker isn’t very good. I have a Red Sea kit and was going to buy more reagents for that.

I think I’m going to go with the 736. I’ve read with the margin of error it is more accurate. I’m not concerned about the conversion part.
 
One other thing to consider is the HR Nitrate reagent is pretty tough to find. I’d buy in bulk depending on how much you plan to test.

I’ve had to set up BRS alerts for when it’s back in stock. Just purchased some today when it came available.


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One other thing to consider is the HR Nitrate reagent is pretty tough to find. I’d buy in bulk depending on how much you plan to test.

I’ve had to set up BRS alerts for when it’s back in stock. Just purchased some today when it came available.


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saltwater aquarium has them in stock. free shipping and 5% off if you buy 2 or more
 
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