I ordered a Hanna Alkalinity Colorimeter Test Kit not knowing they had a DHK one. I got the PPM one. Was wondering what others I would nee
Which Hanna test kits do you use?
- Thread starter charlieborg
- Start date
Also I'm getting a 200 ppm reading on it. Is that high?
200 is high.
Follow the instructions to convert ppm to dkH: I believe you are to multiply ppm by 0.056
If so, your dkH is 11.2
Follow the instructions to convert ppm to dkH: I believe you are to multiply ppm by 0.056
If so, your dkH is 11.2
The only Hanna product I have is the dKH Alkalinity checker. I would like to get the Ultra Low Range Phosphorous checker someday.
Nothing wrong with measuring in PPM; just pick a number and aim for that.
Here's a conversion calculator:
www.hamzasreef.com
Nothing wrong with measuring in PPM; just pick a number and aim for that.
Here's a conversion calculator:
Alkalinity Conversion Calculator
Aquarium calculator; Convert alkalinity between milliequivalents-per-liter (meq/L, meql), carbonate hardness (dKH, KH), and parts-per-million (ppm).
www.hamzasreef.com
have phosphate low range and alk ppm
I ordered the phosphate low range today.
What is the desired dkh for a reef aquarium? How do I get it down- water change?
Alk is an interesting water parameter. The ideal target, and the methods for raising/lowering can depend heavily upon other parameters. Namely Calcium, Magnesium, and even Nitrate.
The short answer though is I consider 8.4dkh to be ideal; plus/minus 1.0 dkh. Anything below 7.4 or above 9.5 I consider to be in the danger zone and in need of immediate adjustment.
Like adjusting anything; don’t go too quickly too fast; especially if you have any Acros or sensitive corals. Most tanks could probably get away with adjusting by 1.0 dkh change per day; But going up/down by 0.3 dkh per day is a safer bet. I’ve seen my most sensitive colonies die immediately after dropping from 10.5 to 9.5dkh. Other corals, including the majority of Acros, didn’t mind though.
Ideal calcium, I consider to be 435ppm or higher. There’s not much concern for high calcium; only a danger zone if it’s too low.
If you get into Magnesium, I prefer mine to be at least 1360ppm.
Short answer for adjusting, scenarios:
1) If Alk is high and Calcium is high. Then stop dosing anything. Test daily; and you will see both of them slowly drop closer to desired levels.
2) If Alk is high and Calcium is low. Add calcium, wait 30 minutes and retest both. The calcium can react with and decrease your Alk.
3) If both Alk and Calcium are low. This scenario can be harder, so try to not let it get there. If you add one element, it can increase itself but decrease the other. The solution if both are low is to test for and possibly dose magnesium. Increased magnesium will increase the amount of calcium and Alk that your water can hold.
...Nitrates is entirely unnecessary for this intro level topic (other than to acknowledge its minor existence) so I won’t cloud your mind with that right now. All that I wrote above is a simplified version for the sake of brevity; but it should get you to the right place easily enough!
The short answer though is I consider 8.4dkh to be ideal; plus/minus 1.0 dkh. Anything below 7.4 or above 9.5 I consider to be in the danger zone and in need of immediate adjustment.
Like adjusting anything; don’t go too quickly too fast; especially if you have any Acros or sensitive corals. Most tanks could probably get away with adjusting by 1.0 dkh change per day; But going up/down by 0.3 dkh per day is a safer bet. I’ve seen my most sensitive colonies die immediately after dropping from 10.5 to 9.5dkh. Other corals, including the majority of Acros, didn’t mind though.
Ideal calcium, I consider to be 435ppm or higher. There’s not much concern for high calcium; only a danger zone if it’s too low.
If you get into Magnesium, I prefer mine to be at least 1360ppm.
Short answer for adjusting, scenarios:
1) If Alk is high and Calcium is high. Then stop dosing anything. Test daily; and you will see both of them slowly drop closer to desired levels.
2) If Alk is high and Calcium is low. Add calcium, wait 30 minutes and retest both. The calcium can react with and decrease your Alk.
3) If both Alk and Calcium are low. This scenario can be harder, so try to not let it get there. If you add one element, it can increase itself but decrease the other. The solution if both are low is to test for and possibly dose magnesium. Increased magnesium will increase the amount of calcium and Alk that your water can hold.
...Nitrates is entirely unnecessary for this intro level topic (other than to acknowledge its minor existence) so I won’t cloud your mind with that right now. All that I wrote above is a simplified version for the sake of brevity; but it should get you to the right place easily enough!
What salt mix are you using? Some have an elevated level of alkalinity. Test a freshly mixed batch of saltwater. If that's high, then doing water changes with that is not going to help.
Have you been dosing something that would raise the Alk?
I aim for 8.5 and keep it around there by using a salt that mixes at that alkalinity level and through supplemental daily dosing via a doser.
I use reef crystals. And I dose Kalk. I'll check it tonight. What would the high alk be bad for?
Depending on how high; high Alk could be bad for just about everything.
That said, and at your levels, we would mostly just be concerned with its effect on stony corals (LPS and SPS). But never underestimate the power of stress on the animals in your tank. Stress kills, and it can do it slowly or quickly.
That said, and at your levels, we would mostly just be concerned with its effect on stony corals (LPS and SPS). But never underestimate the power of stress on the animals in your tank. Stress kills, and it can do it slowly or quickly.
I found an interesting read on alkalinity.
It's more than coincidental that precisely at pH 8.3 the carbonic acid (H2CO3) and carbonate (CO3) levels are equal.
Thus, half the bicarbonate (HCO3) is reacted as well.
"Bicarbonates represent the major form of alkalinity in natural waters; its source being the partitioning of CO2 from the atmosphere and the weathering of carbonate minerals in rocks and soil."
"At pH = 8.3, the [H2CO3] equals the [CO3 2- ]. This is the endpoint for carbonate alkalinity and CO2 acidity titrations. In the alkalinity titration virtually all of the CO3 2- has reacted (thus, the term carbonate alkalinity) and half of the HCO3 2- has reacted at the endpoint. Carbonate alkalinity is also known as phenolphthalein alkalinity as this is the color indicator used for the endpoint."
It's more than coincidental that precisely at pH 8.3 the carbonic acid (H2CO3) and carbonate (CO3) levels are equal.
Thus, half the bicarbonate (HCO3) is reacted as well.
"Bicarbonates represent the major form of alkalinity in natural waters; its source being the partitioning of CO2 from the atmosphere and the weathering of carbonate minerals in rocks and soil."
"At pH = 8.3, the [H2CO3] equals the [CO3 2- ]. This is the endpoint for carbonate alkalinity and CO2 acidity titrations. In the alkalinity titration virtually all of the CO3 2- has reacted (thus, the term carbonate alkalinity) and half of the HCO3 2- has reacted at the endpoint. Carbonate alkalinity is also known as phenolphthalein alkalinity as this is the color indicator used for the endpoint."
Ok, it's been a few weeks since I posted my readings. Here is what I got today. I stopped dosing Kalk in my top off water. That the only change I made. Everything looks good in the tank.
Hanna alkalinity is now 153 x .056 = 8.568
Hanna Nitrite ULR = 7
saline =1.024 (refrac)
Temp = 78.8 (Apex)
ORP = 2.62 (apex)
PH = 8.07 (apex)
Ammonia = 0 (API)
Cal = 500+ (API)
Hanna alkalinity is now 153 x .056 = 8.568
Hanna Nitrite ULR = 7
saline =1.024 (refrac)
Temp = 78.8 (Apex)
ORP = 2.62 (apex)
PH = 8.07 (apex)
Ammonia = 0 (API)
Cal = 500+ (API)
Hey Charlie, since you have an Apex it will do the conversion with the Alk for you and store it so you can track it.
Do need another probe to do that?
No, no probe needed.
You do the manual testing the way you normally do and log the results. It the "Log Measurement" section of of Fusion.
You do the manual testing the way you normally do and log the results. It the "Log Measurement" section of of Fusion.
Just change the ubits to match what the hanna checker says on front. I am not looking at my checker atm, but I believe it is measuring ppm.
I use Hanna alk tester, seems to be easiest and most consistent results for me with that one. Also I want to mention that I’ve had best results using this model (HI 772 it would say on the back of Hanna checker and not HI 755)
For Reagents I get ( hi772s reagents not other model type)
I also use Hanna ultralight phosphates checker, works great for me. For results, I plug in test numbers into apex and it does conversion for me)
I’ve tried Low range phosphates by hanna but since my phosphate level too low it always gives me zero.
Unfortunately I no longer use calcium Hanna check because it failed me too many times, probably because of my own mistake like using expired reagents or such. Either way I’ve switched to Red Sea for calcium / magnesium and nitrates.
Works well enough
For Reagents I get ( hi772s reagents not other model type)
I also use Hanna ultralight phosphates checker, works great for me. For results, I plug in test numbers into apex and it does conversion for me)
I’ve tried Low range phosphates by hanna but since my phosphate level too low it always gives me zero.
Unfortunately I no longer use calcium Hanna check because it failed me too many times, probably because of my own mistake like using expired reagents or such. Either way I’ve switched to Red Sea for calcium / magnesium and nitrates.
Works well enough
How do you like the hanna nitrite tester, I found it on sale. Also would this ammonia tester work with salt water, or just stick with red sea test? Thanks
Hanna Instruments HI764 Checker Colorimeter Nitrite Ultra Low Range
Hanna Instruments HI764 Checker Colorimeter Nitrite Ultra Low Range - Dedicated to a single parameter Designed to work with HANNA’s powder reagents Uses 10 mL glass cuvettes. Small Size, Big Convenience easily fits into the palm of your hand or pocket Use for quick and accurate on the spot...
www.aquariumspecialty.com
Hanna HI700 Checker Ammonia Low Range Fresh Water
The all new Checker Ammonia LR for fresh water can be used in place of HI 3824 or HI 38049 fresh water test kits. Range 0.00 to 3.00 ppm NH3-N Resolution 0.01 ppm Measurement Method Colormetric Accuracy (@25°C/77°F) ±0.05ppm ± 5% of reading Light Source Photodiode @470 nm...
www.aquariumspecialty.com
