180G Triton Method

Assuming you have not done any water changes since starting, what do your Nitrate and Phosphate levels look like currently? Sorry if I missed it, but what size and type of refugium are you running? This is the part of the Triton method I am most concerned about. I can buy into the dosing regimen, just not sold on the no water change part.

Tagging along...
 
McPhock. Yes the test ID is the number with A after it. And if you were to add another tank it would have a B after the number
 
Ghbrewer. What concerns do you have with the no water changes? Nitrate/phos?
 
Nutrient build up over time is what I am concerned about. If your not changing water, then how are you vacuuming/removing waste material?Things will build up over time, as I cannot believe that every bit of waste breaks down completely and can treated/used by the refugium. Is the no water change thing integral to the process? Is there a way to account for vacuuming and such if someone wanted to do that? Also, what size/type of refugium is "required/suggested.
 
The "method" calls for no regular water changes. The method that the refugium should be about 10-20% of the system volume and that the detritus should be removed every 3-6 months. In regards to the sand bed I just start a siphon into a filter sock in the sump and no water is removed. The type of refugium they suggest is a 3 chamber sump where the water enters the refugium first then skimmer chamber then return section but reading through lots of threads many people get away with a remote refugium tied into the system also.
 
I can post my test results on my 40b that hasn't had a water change in 3 months if you would like. My tank also skimmerless.
 
So your just using a siphon and sock or wet vac to clean the detritus out of the tank/sump and not removing any SW..... Got it.

I am going to have research this method more, thx for the info.
 
That's it. Let me know if I can help with anything else!
 
On vacation through the weekend so nothing to specific.. I sent my water in for testing last Friday and should get results in the next week. Still mostly happy with the results. I am seeing great sps growth and color. On the flip side, my Zoas look kind of puny but seem to be hanging in there. Parameters are pretty stable as well. I am battling a little bit of hair algae but seem to have slowed its growth and gotten it under control. Will post pics and test results next week
 
Well I came back from vacation to some sad news.... When last working in my fish room where my frag tank is, I must have inadvertantly separated the return pipe in the overflow and for the most part all of my frags perished. Fortunately I didn't have anything that was super expensive but it was sad none the less. I assume that the tank went for a full week with very little fresh water and very little temperature regulation. Somehow, all of the fish survived and I have some coral that might pull through.... To make matters worse I typically pull my water for testing out of the frag tank and I did this immediately but before I realized what the issue was. Long story short the Alk was WAY off and I immediately dosed the rest of the system. In effect, I was correcting for a problem that didn't exist in the DT and I am sure that the dose of Alk didn't help things there.

As for the Triton update... Things are looking spotty there as well. I got my results back (attached below) from the second water test. Comparitively they are still very similar to the original results. Despite the relatively stable results, I am seeing some issues in the tank. My monticaps particularly are beginning to struggle. My big green colony is almost completely bleached and I am noticing some reduced color in others as well. My zoas continue to look weak and at best are open 75% of the way. On the other hand some of my sticks continue to thrive and show nice color and PE. I am also seeing some really good results in my acans, brains, and favia. Then there are some that are in between.

My biggest concern is that I am battling hair algae and cyano. I have never had issues w/ HA but I have battled cyano multiple times... My P and PO4 registered 0 and my nitrates are around 2ppm. Not quite sure what the cause is but I did lose 4 fish to ich about 2 months ago. Those fish could not be removed b/c they disappeared deep into the rock work. I have to assume they atleast caused part of the issue. The HA seems to be on the slow retreat but I have it growing in areas where I can't manually remove it. My Ca, Alk, and Mg are all stable and close to range with needs for only minor tweaks.

Because of some of my test results, (high Li) I am considering a small water change with their pure salt.

At this point, I'm still comitted to the method. With so many variables and the fact that my water quality seems to have been pretty stable, its hard to say what are causing the issues. I plan to stay the course and try to make small corrections as needed.

Water Test #2 attached...
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<legend> Attached files </legend>
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Save yourself money and use salinity for the water changes. I've tested my water 4 times and always low lithium. I've seen other water tests from tanks that use salinity with the same. From what I've read the do this on purpose. But my tests have come back great with just the water changes with salinity and no additives.
 
Did a 10% water change w/ RC this weekend as it appeared that conditions continued to deteriorate in some of my corals. Planning on doing a second one this weekend. Also I am going to order some of the Triton Ca and Mg supplements to have on hand as my test results are calling for so slight adjustments there. Finally - I am lowering my dosage as my Alk is now running slightly high which is possibly due to the water change and possibly due to the fact that after my frag tank mishap, I have less coral
 
Yeah man.... Wasn't the 1st dumb thing I did and won't be the last!


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